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Let's be careful here. Jalex posted a photo of the choke cable for one carb, illustrating two cable screws: the #1 screw (upper screw in the photo) is the one that clamps the choke cable's outer casing to the carb; the #2 screw (bottom screw in the photo) is the one that clamps the choke cable wire to the choke cable linkage. The way I read it, he was asking whether he should loosen both the #1 and #2 screws on both carbs (which, of course, would lead to brand new problems). So, JAlex: If you're reading this, when Mark Maras tells you to loosen 'both screws', he means that you should loosen the #2 screw on both the front and rear carbs. Do not loosen the #1 screw.

I believe so. FWIW... I have found those OEM choke cable boots problematic over the years in terms of causing extra friction and making it difficult to ascertain free movement. If you don't have a partner to serve as an extra set of eyes, I would find a way place your phone under the carburetors and film while you move the choke lever back and forth to check for free play and if both cables are moving equally.

Simple said.... you lieve the screw on the outer cable alone! The screw on the INNER steel wire THAT's the screw that adjusts the choke..

He was a service customer about 100 years ago! Even got a new dash.

In other words - it's a buyer's market. There should be some good deals out there. This one looks like it was probably a good buy. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-166/

when I adjusted my choke cable on the 4 bolt carbs same as yours, I left the choke lever to the off position. now with the choke nozzle all the way up I just lowered the lever a touch and then tighten up the screw that holds the cable #2 screw. now with full choke on and cold start I will rev 2500 rpms and with the choke in the off position I am down to 700rpms. hope this helps

What you really need to check is that the choke nozzle is fully seated (up) into the carb with choke off. Black thing in the picture. Then put the choke on and check the nozzles, they should pull down, away from the carb. Do that a few times to make sure they arent hanging up. If the little rubber fuel lines are stiff, that can make them hang up. You can loosen the screw at the cable and push up on the nozzles to make sure they are seated (blue arrow), then tighten. Fast idle is adjusted from a different place. The main thing is the nozzle seating all the way with the choke lever off.

I was restoring a bunch of inspection lights and all needed new lens. I contacted 240Zrubberparts to see if I could get a quantity discount. He asked if I wanted "crystal clear" lens and without thinking I said yes instead of specifying opaque. So... I have a bunch of lights that do not look like OE and I occasionally gift them to friends.

There’s a story behind that and I’m pretty sure that will be answered in good time.

The market is soft, very soft. Let's see where the bidding falls on the blue with white 240 currently on BAT. Sorry but nothing to do with your astute observation Zed Head

Then choke is off, move to ignition.

Oh boy... If you unscrew the cables there will be NO movement.. you have to make sure that the chokes bottom out (NO shoke) then put the choke knob in the almost close position (Like 3-4 mm off the closed position..) them screw the cables tight and if you then pull the choke they will come ON.. (enough) (You must be a theoretical physicist hihi... 🙊)

I'm sorry but i don't know what you mean here.. That's normal! If i pull my choke all the way on my 240z it's at 2500 rpm easely.. just don't! 🙂 The choke is there to get it started when cold (weather) After start push the choke back to about 1200/1500 rpm depending on the cold.. (Not very cold overthere i guess Panama?) As i said, a little slack should be in both cables but there should be some reaction f you pull the lever halfway or even on half an inch..

So I finally got back into the shop this weekend. A while back I was working on reworking some marker lights. Jim Arnett watched me struggle along with that for a while before he said "I have a nice set of running lights all redone if you're interested?" So yes, I'm interested! Jim does nice work and I got them in a week or so ago. I put the rears on yesterday and a engine room light that also came from him. I also got a new shift boot and rubber boot for the end of the transmission I also figured out how to get the maxima calipers apart There is a clip way down inside you need to get out I bought these snap right pliers. They work really good Needs some clean up Rebuild kits come in on Monday