Leaderboard

Although I'm constantly tinkering with my '74 260z, I find it very rewarding when I make a discovery, learn to do something new, or fix a system that I never knew how to fix. I definitely spend more time under the hood than in the driver seat. I was reminded of how enjoyable it is working on this Z today when my 10-yr-old Chevy Volt stopped recharging and I had to take it to a dealer. My OBD II scanner could not read hybrid codes because I needed the $5K unit to read the recharger module codes. The dealer charged me $180 to start diagnosing the problem then told me to continue trouble shooting the problem I needed to give them $700 more. The cause of the problem was one of three issues. The cost for the most likely problem, a recharge control module, would end up costing me $3K+ to replace. This on a car worth $4K. I got lucky and after the 1st $180, I called a small repair shop within walking distance of my home and found out that he has personnel trained in working on rechargeable hybrid cars. I'll still have to pay $1.2K for the part, but I can avoid the near $200/hour labor.

Fried random ground wires are often caused by bad ground connections to the frame and battery. Current will find a path if you don’t have a low resistance path where you intend. Imagine starter level current that can’t use the battery cable but uses that ground wire instead. ZZZZZZZ Start with the fat black negative battery cable inspection and cleanup (both ends) and the body ground between the battery and the firewall. Then the engine harness ground screw on the frame across from the starter. Then the ground connection on the back of the alternator.

That's the ground wire for the VR. It shouldn't be carrying a lot of current to begin with. I have a replacement in the box that I bought from BlackDragon (Victoria British) a long time ago. Let me see if I can find it. Meanwhile, I suggest you test resistance to ground on the engine side of the harness where that wire connected to. Frankly what catches my eye is that loose green wire.

Here's the latest. I swapped the gauge locations and made a couple other small changes. Please let me know what you think: <V2.0>

It would be pointless for them to show possible stroke so I assume that what they show is the travel achieved when the pedal is pressed to the floor. I'd remove that boot and take a measurement.

The potential problem is the fork bottoming out on the hole before release. Your picture shows quite a bit of distance. Eurodat has posted the slave cylinder throw before, I think it's shown in the Clutch chapter of the FSM. If you don't have that amount of free space behind your fork that could be a problem.

Why not just use another drive shaft that fit's?

This is what the factory driveshaft bolt looks like

New ITB intake is getting sent off to China to CNC cut! This fixes a few mistakes on the first version and also gives me the stock J-hook pivot as an option. It will feature a bolt on banjo balance bar and ideal injector angles. It's slightly longer then the last version as well.

Something fun I have been working on! I really want drive by wire on my 240z. But figuring out a location for the actuator has been tough to say the least. I don’t want it hanging over the intake. This is a 100% bolt in adapter featuring a BMW 6 cylinder actuator and a 350z pedal. This will attach to stock linkage and drive my ITBs. Hopefully it works! The pivot arcs a far bit, so that might not work and the pedal mount might flex too much? Time will tell. This would allow me modern cold starts, any sort of progressive pedal movement I could want. Full idle control, traction control, valet mode, cruise control and way easier tuning. We 3D scanned the pedal area and the actuator to mock it all up in CAD! All of this is 5axis cut out of 6061.

I like these chrome ink pens that I got from Amazon. I got a 1mm and 4mm. The ink lasts well, I’ve had them for a couple of years and they keep working every time I go to use them.