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I finally got around to ordering the Nismo pump. Take a look at it installed on the Kyusha bracket. I'll be installing on the car next time we have a nice day here in Seattle.

There is no pressure (other than weight of the fluid) in the transmission. Most people tighten both the fill and drain much tighter than they need to be. They only need to be as tight as not to leak. I used to recommend just using Teflon tape on the threads but now use Loctite 567 Thread Sealant and only tighten to snug or slightly past. (got pretty sick of having to use a 3 foot cheater bar to remove customers fill plugs and an impact on the drain...) (I'm a journeyman plumber and spent 35 years cutting and threading pipe. Just like flare fittings, there's science to threaded pipe fittings - which the fill and drain plugs are - just like there's science to the dissimilar metals involved. Tightening a threaded fitting too much is as bad or worse than not tightening enough. "Pipe dope", Teflon, cutting oil (lubricant) it used to control heat caused by friction. Too much friction (heat) causes micro fractures in the metal of the thread which means leak. So, the Teflon is actually more of a lube than a "seal"... Also the more torque you put on it, the more friction there is, more heat to damage the metal. - There, I've given my unsolicited plumbing advice for the day!)

Valve adjustment would also be low hanging fruit

Was over in the UK last week playing with Astons and Spitfires. Went to MZR to have a look at getting a car built up. What a place, essentially they build a brand new 240Z with modern updates, think Singer Porsche but for 240Z. Amazing level of workmanship and quality, the full carbon body bonded onto the 240Z steel subframe is incredible. Henry Catchpole did a video that sums them up. Waiting list is over two years for a new build, so they must be doing something right! Here's some of the eye candy.

How old is the exhaust? I had an 325is that would pop out the back downshifting. The muffler was bad but I liked it.

Thanks. I never would have thought of that.

yes, its rather easy actually. just once you get the pin out make sure you pull the shifter up and out of the way, it will flop around some but no big deal. You want to avoid having it drop down and get in the way when pulling the trans back off the block. Do note the way the pin goes in, IIRC its inserted from the left side, and has a flat that needs to mate up on the trans housing when reinstalling. Oh and watch that circlip, it will jump out and get lost if you are not ready for it.

Looking at this chart, that may or may not be applicable, it would seem a properly butt welded/ground smooth joint retains 65-75% of its original strength??

Does your car still have the solenoid to keep the throttle from slamming shut when you get off the gas? If it doesn't, then you have a sudden rich condition when you lift off the gas.

MZR offers three different models. The 'Sport Design' is simply a restored and upgraded/hot-rodded Z (albeit, done with industrial-grade processes and attention to detail). The exterior panels are OE and steel. The 'Evolution' and 'MZR 50th Anniversary' models use what MZR describes as "a lightweight carbon composite exoskeleton". It looks like this 'exoskeleton' consists of all of the external panels except for the roof (the rear quarter panels do not appear to be OE in shape). It looks like everything underneath is just a well-restored Z monocoque. The rear quarter panels and the rear-end panels would probably qualify as being 'bonded' to the steel structure. I suspect that the steel door shells and the steel hatch frame are retained, with carbon fibre outer panels bonded in place. If you were to purchase the steel versions of all of those exterior panels, it would cost ~ US$6,000 (plus shipping, duties, and taxes). In carbon fibre, they'd probably cost triple that amount (or more).

Again there are a lot of options here beginning with checking the timing and go from there.

I try to minimize cutting and welding long sections whenever possible. Looks like there are about 40 spots that would need to be cut to r&r the entire tower. May take a bit longer, but would be my preference.

Wow, cutting the tower seems pretty gutsy. Would have thought drilling out the weld’s would be easier.

Remove the clutch master push rod like Zed Head said - then you can wiggle the fork a little. I've never had to remove the spring and we've pulled (and re-installed) a BUNCH of master cylinders (every single one a PITA)... We've pulled out pins that were worn nearly in half! That's an item that doesn't usually get much preventative maintenance. However - I DON'T BLAME THEM...

Quick update for hls30-00051 Having been back and forth with what to replace front radiator core support with… late/early.. spot weld imitating factory look, etc…… I’m fortunate to have the 4th option of just replacing front clip from another early car that was supposed to be a race car back in 2006/7….. too beautiful of rails and front clip, never hit or modified. Transfer front clip, swap out the tops of strut towers. Compared vin 51 to vin 3400 something I can’t really see any difference in rails etc……, Doing a practice run today , Cutting out one “top” should be a clean experience….

Thank you for the detail - I don't need them, I have both my fill and drain plug, it was more just I couldn't find a direct answer & enquiring minds want to know, ya know 😁

Zed may have the answer I was looking for. Just the slightest flat spot on the rim of the backing plate. I gently bent it with a screwdriver and (knock on wood) no more clicking when I back up...! Thanks, Zed...!

Very cool, thank you for posting.