Leaderboard

Sorry man, I'm sure you can understand that I've been a little distracted! I got the muffler on the car last Friday, and spent a couple more hours driving around on the way home. For the benefit of everyone else, there were a few outstanding items when I picked the car up (none of them were Chris's problems - they were almost all parts that I hadn't ordered or that we were waiting for). The missing muffler was the most notable item, so it was good to get that completed. I had to remove all the spacers from under the driver's seat. That tells you how much the original seat cushions had collapsed, because I never had any trouble fitting in the car back in the day. Even with all the spacers removed I'm brushing against the headliner with the seat back and reclined. The rear sway bar links that I'd ordered months ago were the wrong ones, so the sway bar was in place, but not connected to the suspension, which was the suspected cause of a clunk happening when hitting bumps. I got the correct links (unfortunately I mistakenly ordered only one first and had to order a second) and installed the second one this morning. Unfortunately, the clunk is still happening, and I'm starting to think it might be coming from inside the passenger door. The other suspect is the gland nut on the passenger side strut. I might not have tightened it down properly when I re-assembled them a couple of years ago. The tach isn't working consistently, so I need to order and install a TechMatch device to sort it out (I believe it's the TachMatch TM-03 I-Drive that I need? Current-driven tach?). I'm not confident that my ear is good enough to recognize redline, so I probably haven't gone past 5000 RPM yet. The engine sounds and feels absolutely great up there, though, so I'm looking forward to really trying it out. The throttle's a little sticky, which made driving without a muffler quite interesting. It's either getting better or I'm getting used to it. The linkage all looks fine and all the pivot points are properly lubricated, so I'm going to keep driving to see what happens. The gas gauge isn't working, which is mysterious, because Chris and I both had the sending unit working properly, and I think I tested it once when connected to the gauge in the dash. It's probably something simple, but I haven't got to that yet. Mostly I've been driving the car, which has been fantastic! It's starting to come back to me. As I mentioned somewhere a while back, the engine somehow feels much larger than it really is when you first start driving it. That long hood has something to do with it. The car's already starting to feel smaller and more nimble to me after only a few hours of driving. I'll keep driving and knocking these items off, and I'll keep this thread updated!

Haha! Maybe they wanted some scratches in there to hold oil like piston ring cross hatch marks? Seals like a little lube,

Attended my first local cars and coffee since moving to the North Georgia mountains. As expected, mostly US cars, with only 4 Japanese and a few BMWs.

I did make sure the oil hole lined up with the squished end of the oil gutter. I'll look online for Omega Machine. If I can get one promptly, I'd just as soon change it out

Just to close this thread, I finally got the car started. It did start fine. It had spark the whole time and started apparently the distributor was 180° out of whack. Somehow we took the distributor out rotated the flywheel 180° until we had compression stroke again put the distributor back in and twisted it finally turned over so he is trying this and can’t get their car started. It is usually distributor issue and it usually has to do with the spark plug order and where the rotor is pointing to good luck to all others trying to start their car keep going and they will get eventually get started.

I do it without lifting the car. I turn the front wheels all the way to the left and reach under from the bottom behind the right front wheel to connect a tube and bottle of brake fluid and loosen the bleed valve. I use a speed bleeder valve so I can do it without an assistant.

I see thet Omega Machine & Tool know call is a replacement for the nissan titan (FS5W71C)

The striking rod oil seal is easy to find in the aftermarket suppliers. Don't use a hydraulic oil seal. They are a different design. The 5mm thick seal will also fit. It needs to have an ID 14mm and OD 20mm. (14/20 x 4.2mm or 5.0mm). Over here they cost a little less than €3.00. I mentioned the size in my list I made back in 2012. Make sure the rear bush is the Omega machine tool variant. It is not for our transmissions, but it is so close to the original that is is a suitable alternatieve. The SKU: 303066 (NIS-62) only fits the stubby FS5W71C transmissions for 4 cyl models. The transmissions with the long rear extension housing never had the option to replace this bush, not through Nissan anyway. I think the stubby transmission housing provided more stress to this bush and it was prone to wearing out. The NIS-62 is also much shorter and has less surface area.

I don't know. Maybe somebody with a more complete parts database will chime in. It would be nice to know but for now it appears to be an original harness in a car a month earlier than Lily. The brown z was my daily driver 30 years ago, so I should be able to get Lily going with the donations

IF you had wanted to get a new bush, omega machine has the correct one, but since you already have cleaned and reinstalled the old one I am just posting for future reference. I don't know why they get so scored up, mine was the same. It looks like you have the oil hole correctly lined up with the oil gutter. On mine the gutter pickup was broken and stuck to the magnetic drain plug. I figured loss of oil was the culprit, but that is just a guess.

The Strips gained a more rearward angle over the following years. 70/71 the strips were entirely on the front fender. On the 73 Baja Z the strips were swept rearward putting them partly on the door. When Mr. Brock built a 240Z for himself in the 2000’s - the strips were swept even farther rearward.

I worked for a Chrysler plant that made torque converters. The hub (the part that goes into the transmission) was ground to size, and then "polished" to make the ideal surface for seal wear. The funny thing is that the "polishing" actually produced a rougher finish than the grinding.

Haha! I try! So as scary looking as that integral equation is, it is basically means "average". As in "Roughness average". And to make matters simpler, I think a surface finish of Ra at 8 u-in can be achieved with something around 400 grit sandpaper*. The typical (and best) means for achieving the appropriate surface finish would be by grinding the shafts and again... A well tooled machine shop should have that capability. * Note that I did see some indication that the UK numbering system for sanding paper grit is different than the US, so be aware of that.

I like the spot weld cutters like this or this I do not like this style A little oil helps. Be careful with the bit corners, they are brittle and easily damaged. Constant pressure helps. The carbide or specialty coated ones last a lot longer. My tool of choice for spot welds is a die grinder with one of these That section of the frame is pretty stout. It's thicker than a lot of other areas of the car