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O-ring groove in the early 2400 cover

Seriously?? The technology to prevent that has been incorporated into modules for decades. Even the 74 260Z with the stock module has provisions to prevent that. Sheesh. Trying to save $0.10 worth of components??

This test should only be done with the gauge in the car. The voltage regulator needs to be connected for the gauge to function properly. @gotham22 Here is a video of setting up a bench test. Follow the wiring exactly. If you're not sure how it should be wired, stop and ask questions, otherwise, you could damage a gas gauge. I have not been able to ascertain the state of your sanity.

There are 2 kinds of people in this world: Those who use the metric system, and those who went to the moon.

My collection of caps (4 kinds), indicates that all the ones that say simple “OIL” require no gasket on the cap, and fit valve covers that require O-rings in the provided groove around the fill opening on the cover. All others, Elephant or otherwise, use the stepped flat o-ring gasket discussed above. A few of mine had that gasket inverted. One had two gaskets, all had at least one. Most were quite hard, though none were rock hard. None were dry split or deteriorated to the point of obvious leakyness. I only included pictures of OIL cap and it’s back side showing no groove like all the others that take the step gasket.

I'm still thinking you are looking tor a bypass style regulator. Maybe this helps? https://www.jegs.com/tech-articles/how-a-fuel-pressure-regulator-with-return-a-bypass-regulator-work/ Have you got any websites with descriptions of what you are calling a back pressure regulator?

BTW.. this is the correct(er) vid to your f-ked up not metric system hahaha... better late then never.. This guy is hilarius.. from finland.

You have to use a small piece of wire to jumper the black and yellow terminals where the wiring connects to the sending unit at the tank.

Put a set on my 280 no issues.

@ShawninvancouverThe biggest issue here is you need to be at the car and follow instructions which we have given. Secondly in the time you are not able to be there, Read, educate yourself on how the system works. I think you are looking for an easy fix and there aren’t any without gaining knowledge. Videos,Diagrams and a multitude of folks are trying to help, There are not any answers without real time measurements step by step. You’re going to end up going down a rabbit hole as we call it here on the forum. Study the FSM it’s the Bible for this car. I apologize if my response is somewhat strong but we are going round and round in circles.

That has nothing to do if it’s firing or not another battle for another day. The wire runs right through the tach in series. We Need MEASUREMENTS!!

Checking mine now from Datsun Spirit and will report back

So you're saying that NASA only uses the Imperial measuring system? You would be wrong.

No that is high voltage coming out of the centre post on the coil, that is why you test it using the coil or plug wire to ground. The high voltage is created by the points going open from a closed position. Again you need to read and study the info I posted in post #33. It is all there on how it works And why I want you to measure the voltage at the dizzy terminal and at the points (with the points open) to make sure everything is working correctly. Yes power on both sides of the coil is good.

That is a Great article!! Thanks @Captain Obvious

If you want to make some measurements, I would be happy to check them against mine. I know where there is another pedal box that is yours 😁 When I was messing with my booster I remember there were some differences in the push rods that go into the master, but I dont recall anything on the pedal side.

You’ve made your point @dutchzcarguy. However, you guys “Don’t know your arse from a hole in the ground!” 😂 A Finn Struggling with English !!!.mov

Thanks for the very much appreciated compliments inline6. The valve cover and carb dome finishes are OEM. And Captain, I assume the “nits” were directed at my picture. The fuel pump, see attached pic, is indeed a NOS Nikki pump, and I also included a pic of the master cylinders. inline, not trying to hijack space as the work you have done on your car is truly amazing. AZ-240z

For the time being, I added a junction box to replace the old single fuse sub panel, and added 12AWG from there to the new sub panel, to one of the phases. I understand doing this is not to any code. I only have the few circuits running off it, until I get the 6AWG underground feed in place, then I'll properly wire the sub panel with the two phases and connect the 240 branch. Added a ground from the panel to the conduit used to supply the 120v supply Wiring to the 240 outlet above, waiting for the 10AWG individual wires, then I'll wire the receptacle added a GFCI receptacle & a regular on the load side, by the door, separate fused branch from the branches in the west addition and what will be on the south wall. I will continue that branch into the north wall when that addition happens All the conduit tidied up on this side now After that - the (Electric) power steering pump on the C30 is on the way out (130K miles) - making a nasty scream under load (cornering). Looking online, the FoMoCo part is pretty indestructible, except for the lower shaft bearing, which is not in an oil bath like the upper one. The unit is not intended to be serviced, so a Filter cutter is required to cleanly cut off the motor cap. after that, the reservoir is removed by stretching the Oetiker clamp, then the pump is removed, followed by a drive gear , c clip & washer - then the motor shaft can be tapped out of the upper bearing. bearing destruction New Timken bearing installed more to come

Yeah - I would not want to be the passenger. My wife is a really good sport 🤪

Ground the sending unit going to the gauge. It should swing all the way to the full position. @SteveJ please correct me if I have lost my mind which is very possible!!

Looks like an interesting experiment. There is a ton of different grades of TPU out there. The Overture site does not tell much. I linked to one of the big TPU suppliers for example, at the bottom. Click the Products heading to see more. Still weird that the guy made it look like a Nissan product, even down to the Japanese text. Almost like it's not meant for actual use. Good luck! https://overture3d.com/blogs/news/tds-overture https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0207/3624/5824/files/OVERTURE_TPU_TDS_EN.pdf?v=1706141279 https://overture3d.com/blogs/news/sds-1 https://www.lubrizol.com/Engineered-Polymers/Products/Estane-TPU https://www.lubrizol.com/Engineered-Polymers/About/What-is-TPU

Just because I like resurrecting old threads every now and again, I wanted to add a product review. I put the gasket @Zed Head linked in post #26 in this thread on my ebay watchlist. A couple of weeks ago, I got a "special offer" that knocked $2 off the price. I figured I could spend the roughly $6 to get one of these printed gaskets, and it arrived today. It is much more pliable than the old gasket. The reproduction is 2mm smaller diameter than the gasket on my spare oil cap. It's also not quite as thick. Does it matter? Probably not. It will mate to the sealing surface of the valve cover, and I don't think there would be any gaps. The cap with the new gasket is on the left.

Surprise… Fenders off and removed engine block today, closer examination of radiator ore support area reveals a 73/74 z radiator core support. Lower support was reused. Quite a few differences from early to late supports. Most obvious being 3 large holes in early drivers side, versus 4 in later versions….. Honestly, I expected more surprises by now, The exploration continues….

Lot's of turns there!! It can make you carsick. 😞 It's not real far from me.

Back in 2016 I went to the Tail of The Dragon with 30 other C30's from across the country - the car handles really well in this type driving