Leaderboard

I would try pulling on the choke a little in the situation where you think you are feeling the hesitation. Give it a little more fuel and see what happens? Did you put a timing light on it and verify that both the mechanical and vacuum systems are working correctly?

Ready to go in. Mono radio speaker connectors. Don’t have original antenna so plan to put a toggle switch hidden under dash. Wiring for the original antenna is there.

Here are three photos from my installation. A length of 1 x 2 clamped along the side channel helps to distribute the clamping force. The plastic pinch clamps are cheap and worked nicely.

Once you get them close you have to stick an awl through the hole on the body and in to the threaded hole on the quarter window to line them up, second person is nice to have.

I can tell you first hand it’s a nite and day difference all the way around as far as power and driving experience when you swap it over to a manual transmission. Not trying to talk you into it of course 😂😂😂

If you weren't 3000 miles away, I'd come help!

Original R&T article. 1969?

I was going to suggest a jumper wire to the coil. But, the above. With the cut wires, but still getting power to the coil with the key on, it seems like somebody has already bypassed the stock setup. Just saying...we can only work with the information relayed to us.

ZCD has the slave line bracket that you can drill and rivet to the inner fender well. From experience, Ask me how I know! Run the line first. Tie every thing in then mark it.

This is what I needed to hear. Thank you!

Here’s a quick look at that head. https://share.icloud.com/photos/0cdSGhHLbHmLHyOdED8S4286A

Nice job on the glass.

I got the rest of the inner hatch seal done yesterday, Dave came over this afternoon and we installed the hatch glass and quarter windows. Dave finished up the drivers seat so all that is left is to paint the chin spoiler/ install and get an exhaust system on it and she is ready for the road.

Plenty of sun today, so I clamped the rear spoiler to the hatch along the back edge & let it bake awhile. That actually resolved much of the misshapen issues, added a clamp on top which pushed the wave that was present on the right out. Had to address the paint under the emblem also After paint repair The directions say to drill & use two sheet metal screws in the forward outer region, after the spoiler is taped in olace. I used the existing inner "280Z" emblem mount hole, drilled out for an M4 riv-nut, and did one on the other side to match approx 5" in & 3" up from hatch lip, prior to adhering the spolier. Those helped me align the spoiler and adhere the back edge to the hatch lip knowing that the placement was correct in relation to the lock. I added closed cell foam to the outer fender overhangs as per the instructions (although not provided ) Need to add the 280Z back Also heated & shaped the lower spoiler edge to minimize the wave that was present