Leaderboard

Car looks great. Nice work, Chris.

Megasquirt has only two wires going to the coil (plus the blue wire for the tach signal on the negative side). I have double checked that they are correct. Megasquirt triggers the ignition from the turbo distributor module . I have completely removed the ballast resister. It sounds like the stock transistor ignition unit is killing (grounding out) the coil which is controlled by megasquirt. Since I do not have the stock distributor installed, it sounds like the transistorized ignition unit is useless unless the accompaning wires serve some purpose and it sounds like they are not--thanks SteveJ I will try disconnecting all of the wires going to the TIU and isolate them and see if it works.

Yup, front fitment is way off, totally sunken in the fender. Rear isn't bad. The bumpers look bad, and the front fender arch looks silly with how much it was moved up. Having the door and rocker combined ruins the proportions of the door since it is now much more square. Hopefully the actual rocker is still there underneath since it's a major structural component of the car. I really don't see the point of having done all this. It doesn't look good, and as mentioned, there isn't even a need for such wide tires with a stock L28. As far as handling goes, I suspect there's a limit to how much rubber is really needed to have fun with throwing the car around, and I'd say he has way more than he needs. Also, If I was doing a build like this with custom wheels, my choice would definitely not be five slot mags. It's surprising he couldn't think of anything better than that, which makes me think he's just not very familiar with these cars, or Japanese cars in general. I have to agree with grannyknot that this guy is a bodyman who thinks he is a designer, but is not. This is not an improvement on the original design. I've seen the results from people who can rework a classic design and have it come out looking better than the original, and this is not it.

Removed and remade the targa, 1/4 and trunk striping - the coating on it had peeled since I last did them, 3M tape too.

Nope. Look down. (Brake MC in the photo to orient you.)

“You think it’s worthWHAT? We gotta see this.”

Maybe a brand from India? Go meet the guy and ask! 😉 Seen from a side of the car it looks a bit like a BMW.

Yeah, I was thinking that for shorter and more stable (wider) surfaces, the draft shouldn't be as important. Think about it this way... As the master sample is being pulled out of the sand, those surfaces will slide (scrape) against the sand. But if they are short, and if there isn't a thin delicate section that needs to be preserved, it's not as important. That's why the cooling fins needed draft, but those other shorter stout walls might not. About your channel, you could just add the extra metal on the outside now and take care of the internal features on the mill. In other words, lay down enough metal now in certain areas that will allow you to remove it mechanically later. If you're in a time crunch, that could be a way out. I've not messed with Fusion, but I've spend some time in a couple other CAD packages. and I understand the unfortunate need to completely scrap what you're working on and starting over because the tool can't do what you really want it to. Hope you get what you need. This is really a neat project!

I wonder what Fran told Hagerty the declared value should be for insurance? My guess is that when Fran stated the value it prompted Hagerty to see the car for themselves which then prompted the article.

The stock ignition grounds at the TIU on the blue wire. If you are using a MS to fire the ignition, that means you two incompatible ignition systems connected to your car. Is the MS connected to the negative terminal of the coil? Post a copy of the wiring diagram for the ignition you are using. Disconnect the TIU. Wrap the ring lugs in the factory harness individually with electrical tape. Reconnect the blue wire at coil and reconnect the distributor. See if you still have your problem.

A friend came over and setup the carbs and tuned them, what a beautiful sound. I took it out for a drive around the property then realized there were no headlights so the tires were throwing gravel on the sugar scoops so had to bring it back in. The engine bay is done.

I’ll remember him for sponsoring the best ZCON ever. Savanah, Georgia……air conditioned car show and a race track 500 yards away! Bob and Carol Sharp, Carl Beck and Jimbo and a host of others.

Some quite hare-brained 'solutions' being offered here. The original question was answered in period by the factory in their Race & Rally Preparation manuals. They recommended cooling of the oil by means of a pump and small heat exchanger, giving data for drilling the diff housing and rear cover for the insertion of tubes to collect the oil and then spray (cooled) oil on the CW&P: A similar electric pump & cooler system was adopted as standard equipment on some of the S130-series variants and up into S31-series. Rear covers with extra oil capacity and cooling fins are all well and good, but positive circulation, cooling and the directed spray of cooled oil are going to be more effective. A lot depends on on how 'tight' your LSD setting is. Generally speaking, high breakaway settings generate more heat.