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Got some round LED's and made some floor lighting using the OEM wiring. I mounted them with some pieces of aluminum and used 3M emblem tape to hold them in place. I got the lights from amazon. Very pleased. Thanks @zKars for the idea.

I'm going to revive this thread for a moment. I have been texting Shawn at The Unobtanium, and I sent him a picture of the nubbins. He asked me to send him one so he can try to reproduce them.

Thank you Steve. I'm retiring from my day job this summer, so I'll be spending much more of my day out there. I'm going to have to work my way around the rest of the garage eventually. Had to buy some shelving today - the ones I have left over from previous work were not deep enough for what I wanted on this side. Bought 15' of 1x12 to make the bottom 3, then used the old shelving to make the uppers. I spaced these wide so I can fit small parts storage bins (16-18" tall) on the elbow height shelf, and large tool cases under the bottom one. Trying to plan this out as carefully as possible. I always forget to take in account something, same as working on the cars... primed I'm going to add a 1/4 round to protect myself from walking into these Put the heat on in the garage so I could top coat the south wall shelving. Found I had 1/2 gallon of a medium grey left over from something. I haven't bothered with heat up to now, as I have the door open much of the time, going back & forth cutting wood, etc.,

Surprised the Apex unit doesn’t bolt in without modifying the wheel tub! Thats a lot to ask of someone doing a simple subframe upgrade let alone a resto.

The service manuals are dated by year and domestic or export MODEL, the series term on the front is only to determine S30 serie(S ! ) I agree that $^!# is confusing, got me to in the beginning. I'm not here to fight who is right or not wright lol. If you want to call it a series 1 go ahead. It's funny i'm now about 15 years into restoring classic cars ( US and JDM ) and bikes to ) , what I find is that basically on ALL cars and bikes of that time period, changes through the years and even months occured quickly, because quickly changing goverment regulations etc. So every kind of classic club has it's own way of seperating changes throughout the years. Some became a myth, some are true.

Yep. Also, I measure the outer diameter of them at .175" inches. They are similar to the clips used for the inside trim panels in that they utilize a small plastic shaft which is pushed into a hole in the center of the rivet. Pushing it flush with the top of the rivet expands 4 "fingers" behind the hole which is what grips the part into place.

Many years ago, the knob that goes on the seat slider handle in my 260Z broke. I had seen parts on FB from a place called The Unobtanium, and I found they sold their parts on ebay. I decided to get a replacement knob from them. https://www.ebay.com/itm/386245878688 Compared to the aluminum knobs sold by MSA, I figured it was worth the money to get the plastic knob. The new knob is a dull finish compared to the ones installed in the 73 (and in the 74). I think some of the 3D printing artifacts are visible, too. I had to heat it up slightly to slide on. While it may not look original, it's much better than no knob. To me it was worth the money. If you're on FB, you can see some of their parts: https://www.facebook.com/profile/100088893413711/search/?q=240Z Also on their ebay store: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_dkr=1&iconV2Request=true&_blrs=recall_filtering&_ssn=theunobtainium&store_name=theunobtainium&_oac=1&_nkw=240z

Similar pricing, too. I have been texting Shawn from The Unobtanium, and he is interested in producing other parts in addition to the ones he lists on ebay. It's nice that there are multiple vendors willing to help support the hobby.

I measured the tail light panel holes to be about 5.5 to 5.8mm, and the corresponding holes in the hatch slam panel on the car appear to be 4.5mm on both my 280Z and 240Z.

Got back few parts nickle planted. Pivots work pretty smoothly. I got an old one from ebay as well so I have an extra wiper linkage with pivot arm assembly. Will be putting on ebay once it is assembled. Let me know if anyone is interested. Also decided to nickle plate my water cork assembly.

Hi Kats: I think Mr. Uemura and his team's pride and passion for their work comes though even in the translated story. Mr. Motomura had the same feelings. Talking personally to someone about an experience is one thing, where you have not only words, but tone, body language and immediate feed back from the listener. Capturing the perfect words to convey that emotional attachment in writing is quite a different task. To an extent that is why some people are Literature Majors / Best Selling Authors and others are Science & Math Majors. In spit of the fact that it is difficult for hard nosed engineers and craftsmen driven by science, technology and mathematics to write a report that also conveys their emotions; I personally felt that Mr. Uemura and Mr. Motomura did an excellent job. Everyone should read the story for themselves, however it was easy for even me to recognize the pride and emotional motivations helping to drive their work.

@Zed Head You likely just saved the day. I can't thank you enough. Beats ebay vendors any day, I don't think MegaZip will find the gears, and the plus is he is located in Arizona. Waiting for my hybridZ account to be verified.

Just saw this on Hybridz. More expensive than a wrecking yard but cheaper than some places. Has the ratio, apparently. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/133338-r200-370-open-and-z32-5-speed/#comment-1241777

Hi Alan, I read it just like you read. Japanese people write it like that and read it like that. Kats

Agree with Patcon, I think you will have a big mess. If something doesn't go right (crack) and the glass has to come back out, thats going to be a disaster to clean up. Here is a video of a guy that put sealant under the lip after installing the glass. Personally I would install it dry, and if it leaks then add sealant. https://www.google.com/search?q=youtube+installing+datsun+windshield&oq=youtube+installing+datsun+windshield&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIHCAEQIRigATIHCAIQIRigATIHCAMQIRigATIHCAQQIRigATIHCAUQIRifBTIHCAYQIRifBdIBCTIyNTE3ajBqN6gCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:9b4f37af,vid:H77PZfCmwcU,st:0

I have some of the correct plastic rivets. They are quite small in comparison to the plastic rivets used on the interior trim panels. I will get some dimensions on them. I was able to source them new from Nissan within the last couple of years. These holes use the same plastic rivets, but you may not have those brackets anymore as they may only be on US cars for the US license plates.

You're still making it sound as though these 'Series 1' etc terms are somehow official. Who has agreed to their definitions? Who is saying that they are a "starting point"? Here's a screenshot of a section from a page on your zhome.com site where no less than three of these 'Series' definitions pop up within the same production year of 1971. We have chassis numbers ('VIN') given as end and start dates for lists of new equipment and spec changes, as well as 'Model Year' added into the mix. Clearly, 'Series' numbers are being linked to content: A point I have made many times. For many years the USA spec 'Datsun 240Z' was presented to us as though it were a single child and that the other contemporary variants in the S30-series were insignificant afterthoughts. Sound familiar? So 'Series 1' and 'Series 2' etc are shown - QED - to be inaccurate, ill-defined and - finally - superfluous terms, right? What's really important are the full chassis number, the exact market variant/sub-variant (a suffix becomes handy here) and the production date. Then we consult the factory literature. He does indeed. Aha. I see why you've chosen to post that. You might like to note that in Uemura san's original Japanese language book - not the 'translated' version via Motomura san - he made it clear that the North American market 'HLS30-U' was the priority among the Export Specification S30-series variants (quite obviously, as it was the market with the greatest potential for volume sales) and that the priority was largely about putting together a variant which met the target selling price whilst also satisfying MVSS regulations. You might also like to note that - at that point - the North American market variant was intended to use the L16 four cylinder engine whilst the L20 six was intended for the Japanese market, to be joined by the GR8B 'S20'. No L24 at that point. It would be wise - not to mention scholarly - for us to tread carefully around the word 'priority' when discussing a family of variants in a 'Series', lest we find ourselves taking it to mean something more than was intended...

Yes, thanks for the exposure to another source!

Steve Nixon makes a replacement also: https://www.240zrubberparts.com/product-page/240z-seat-adjuster-knob If you want the one you got there to be shiny like the original, you could probably wet sand and then polish it. Maybe fitting it temporarily to a shaft and spin that in a drill to sand and polish.

This is interesting... Going to Auction - read the article.. https://www.thedrive.com/news/the-porsche-959-nissan-bought-to-engineer-the-r32-gt-r-is-going-to-auction?utm_campaign=socialflow&utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=social

You can find him on facebook and instagram: https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=61553353143010 Thanks guys for the link. i will consider this one. Appreciate your inputs a lot.

I'm lucky enough to get my winters off and my shop is attached to the house so I have no excuse but to get out there and Git er done.

That looks like a good quality glass polishing kit, thanks for mentioning it. One thing they should have mentioned is the importance cleanup between grits, you can imagine what would happen if one grain of the coarse grit found its way onto the polishing pad, as John Cleese use to say "Start again".

Same as above, if you do go ahead and use the CLR sealant get there solvent to clean up with. CRL make excellent products. Using rope to bring the rubber lip over the pinch weld will bring a lot more sealant with it than something thin and smooth like string trimmer line. Test the solvent out on a part of the vinyl that isn't seen to be sure it won't discolour the vinyl.

I dont know of a way to do it on Install without making a mess. Everybody I've seen do it, have put it under the flap after Install.

Getting ready to weld the compression rod boxes back on to the new front rails. Even though I have the factory dimensions I deliberately waited to have the Apex Engineered K frame in hand to "cheat" and help line everything up... Funny thing about letting a project sit ... I decided I didn't like how I had done the compression box supports so ... more surgery .... Also... the Apex rear subframe interferes with the spare tire well... so I notched it and roughed in the patch as well ... and finally...rebuilt the floor supports from 14 Gauge sheet metal...belt and suspenders 😉 Just about out of Clecos so going to have to crack out the welder and then loop back and finish up the remaining patches...

Well... she's blasted and tent is disassembled ... now to finish the remaining rust repair and test fit everything. I hope to have a roller in March sometime... I did not try to blast the roof section. I'll be using the Eastwood Contour SCT instead when it's time ... It looks a lot better than I thought it would actually. Cleaned up nice !!! And started test fitting some of the ApexEngineered bits...Here are some teasers...Full review to follow... And last but not least...Black Friday BC Racing weld on coilovers showed up... right on time 😉

Flipped over to the DS and made a little more progress... Still finding lots of clean metal. A little spot along the firewall is going to need some TLC (I've already got a plan LOL) The rest of the Firewall is coming along nicely...got most of the paint stripped at least... Under the battery tray is looking better than expected ....before... After...Needs more blasting but ran out of air again ....but looks pretty serviceable with some minor patchwork... So far so good....fingers crossed.... PS: and the worm gear drive on the rotiserrie? Priceless 😉 (just in case you were wondering LOL)

Another 2.5 hours with the blaster...recycled glass this time. It cuts great but it's dustier. 2.5 hours is about the maximum even with full PPE because it gets dusty to the point where you can't see. I might add a slow downdraft fan (but trying to keep this booth cheap and temporary).... Again...super happy to see so much good metal. Looks like I've cut out most of the cancer already...(ran out of time before getting the last bit by the firewall. It should come right off next session) Before ... She's come a long way back ...

Looks like we're gonna do this thing Spent a few hours blasting this week... mainly testing the setup before getting serious Lol...Before..... After a bit of testing using copper slag .... Nice to see some clean metal...

About 75% of the APEX kit showed up today ... thanks Black Friday!

Long story short...massive garage sale and cleanup...kept enough good stuff to finish 1 car and back to work.... just need to a few things ...

Well she's up in the air, like an idiot I sold my good rotisserie last fall thinking I would never use it again. So I had to dig out the old one, not very pretty but it works fine. Someone jacked the car up in the middle or the floor pan, I have an anvil that I p/u and drop to correct those. Some rust porn.

I haven't powered it up yet, no speakers, blew out the dust and it looks pretty good. Tore down the heater and blower box, no surprises, filled the heater core with CLR and let it sit over night then back flushed. One melting event but there is still continuity so just cleaned it up with a brass brush. Laid out the engine bay wiring harness and stripped all the tape off to check for melts and breaks, only found a couple, the 2 breaks are right where the harness goes through the firewall, someone pulled the firewall rubber grommet off and let the wiring harness ride on the edge of sheet metal. I drilled out the VIN door tag, to remove the respray paint from the edges I applied a tiny amount of Aircraft paint stripper with a Q tip and rubbed it with 0000 steel wool.

Dave and I looked for a couple of months to find a new stock flywheel, couldn't be found so I took the old one in to the machinist, there is still a few heat cracks that he couldn't get out but I don't think it will make a difference the way it will be driven from now on. The plating acid disintegrated a couple of small springs on the carb linkage so I sacrificed a cheap ball point pen for a replacement. Carbs are finished now and up on the shelf. Disassembled the steering column, flushed out all the old grease with brake cleaner and compressed air and repacked the grease. The dash is in nice shape except for a couple of cracks, here is the Kanji. I found a squatter living in the air duct and this label was in the glove box, I'm guessing from the original radio.