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Actually I dont believe the factory panels were perfect off the line. With 50+ years of wear we have no idea if the panels still have the factory shape. I reshaped my doors. It's buried somewhere in my build thread. If the front edge lines up with the fender properly and one of the rear corners of the door sits proud. It's the only way to make it line up. It's really not hard to do

Second that. Patcon's warping strategy was the only way I could get my P-side door's trailing edge to line up. I made up a torque arm out of 1" square steel tubing to help with the job. I drilled holes in the tube so that I could use two of the existing holes* in the back of the door to bolt it to the structure's trailing edge (* the holes that are normally used to attach the window sash to the door -- I had the window sash removed for this job). When bolted in place, the torque arm projected ~ 2' above the top of the door and ~ 1' below the bottom of the door. Sorry - no photos available. Just put a yardstick against the back of the door. You'll get the picture. The quick-and-dirty way to do this job is the block the bottom (or top) of the rear of the door with a piece of 2X4 and then push on top (or bottom). Easy to damage the paint using his approach (unless the car hasn't been painted yet).

Odd. I remember you using your leg too.

If you can get the door to sit right without manually tweaking it then that's perfect but reshaping the door by twisting is a standard body shop technique. Have a look at your door hinges, they're cast iron, you are not going to hurt them in anyway. This technique was used on every assembly line back in the 70's.

Guys, just a quick update. So the left washer in the pic is McMaster and right one from MSC (link below). I installed the MSC as the inside diameter is a better match with the M6 bolts which you need there. McMaster has more options too but they are out of stock for many. https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/06772388

OK, finally found something that works really well. I tried everything suggested here plus I bought this crap I would not recommend for anything other than wasting your money: what did work really well on the water spots as well as all the hazy scratches was this glass polisher https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011A8ZPL4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details its a labor of love for sure slowly working across the glass but i'm really happy how well it does on all but the deepest of scratches. My biggest issue was this really noticeable racing stripe scratch that was probably from a lost or broken window roller. You can also see the hazy water spots and those spots and this strip is completely gone after a few careful applications.

Well, it has been long overdue, but I finally had a 2 post lift installed on Tuesday. It is a 9,000 lb. symmetrical lift I got from the Lift Superstore. They have a shop about an hour from me. Two guys delivered it and installed it in about 4 hours. I am going to christen it tomorrow by doing the brakes on my truck.

I've got that wheel and tire combo on my 240, 205/55 Hankook tires. I put the wide 5 speed out of a '79 ZX too. It's pretty accurate driving side by side with another car while talking back and forth on our phones. I have the r180 that's original to the car. Seems like I used the 4 speed speedo cog in the 5 speed transmission. I'll try and find that old thread where I asked about it later today. Those 15x7 fit perfect and look great. 16s rubbed in the fronts so they're on the 280.