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Now you tell me.

If we look at the young people today - teens and twenty-somthings, it is pretty easy to see why this is a direction in which we are heading. Many of them do not know how to drive and don't want to. The total cost of ownership for a car is often beyond their means or not where they want to place a significant part of their income. They have found that a e-scooter or e-bike can meet a lot of neighborhood needs and they are comfortable with the economics of occasional ride-share services for longer distance needs. Long distance travel by car is boring when a cheap, off-peak airfare willl suffice and is much faster. Where enthusiasts see vehicles as inspirational, challenging, and enjoyable objects, we are seeing a new generation that sees them only for their utility value as a means of transport.

just zoom in on your picture, 37:11, right there to the left of the 3 9 4 stuff. Standard US S30 R180 ratio for the 240 years, 3.36 to 1 I should be on CSI Calgary

So we worked on Cody's car some. We got the header from Troy Ermish. He was more than willing to work with us on some fitment issues. The header touches the block near the outside edge of the bell housing. We spent some time with the die grinder and clearanced the block and bell housing. It's pretty close to the floor. Hopefully the motor doesn't move that much in the mounts Then I mixed up some blue to touch up where we had been grinding The other issue is the parking brake cable. We need to pull it over to the side but there is too much slack. So we going to try to take 3" out of it We'll see how that goes

If they still made affordable cars that are fun to drive (Miata for example), young people would learn to drive well and love it. Sadly, our oldest son and our daughter both started with a Camry and a Corolla. They still drive boring cars. The good news? I came to my senses and started our youngest son with an 81 RX7. He likes fun, fast, small cars to this day, and loves to drive.

I kind of look at this as two different activities. For a lot of travel, I'd love to be able to call a car to come pick me up and drive me to my destination while I read/talk/sleep/drink a beer. This would have been especially true when I was travelling for business, and had only a crappy rental to drive. On the other hand, I like driving, so there are times when I want to go out just to enjoy driving, either as a dedicated activity, or as a side benefit while I'm going somewhere. Fortunately, I don't think driving is likely to be banned in most of our lifetimes, though gas and parts could one day get very expensive and hard to find. So @grannyknot you don't need to add the self-driving option to my car.

Unfortunately, this is the future I think we are heading towards. To that I say they will have to pry my steering wheel out of my cold, dead hands. I enjoy driving, even in traffic, far too much to give it up, much less to an automated machine. It's only a matter of time before they become self aware and determine our fate in a microsecond. Of course, I also hate the digital dashboards, touchscreens, and all the driving nannies that most modern cars come with now. I guess I'm getting old. But, I am likely in the shrinking minority. I think my wife and daughter would welcome being chauffeured around by AI, I'm holding out hope that my son inherited the driving pleasure gene from me. That's what I got my 280Z for, to pass on my knowledge and passions to him.

The hook on the right in the first pic was the malformed one. Now, it has been squished back into its original shape. Paint chips (of course) resulted from the work done to it in the vise and the hydraulic press. These particular hooks were used on both the front right and back right of the car. The left rear hook (on the left) is not quite symmetrical. Notably, the angle of protrusion from the body is greater. Looking at pictures of other 240z's rear hooks, I believe this is correct, and could have been intentional because of the exhaust system. Note the hooks on the Franklin Mint 240z which appear, to my eye, to be at different angles like mine: I didn't take detailed pictures of the engine compartment light rebuild. However, for this original light, I had to remove the original wiring by undoing the solder connections, glass bead blasting, plating, etc. and I had to buy a toggle switch (off eBay) to replace the original, broken one. I also purchased a replacement lens and gasket from 240zrubberparts.com. Front struts - nuts have "9" on them: I was missing one of the compression rod sleeves. Discontinued from Nissan, I found that Zcardepot.com had an OEM one for about 9 bucks. But having to wait for that stopped my suspension assembly progress for now.

I love the hardware documentation!! That Is so helpful!

With the correct AAR orientation, at the beginning the idle was at 1100 rpms, within 2.5 minutes I saw the idle speed slowly going down. Once the air regulator valve was completely closed (i could check it by pinching the AAR hose - it didn't affect the idle speed), I set the idle at 850 rpms. It is steady. I will check the car again in the morning to test, but I am positive the issue with high idle/AAR has been resolved. Also I was able to shut the engine down by screwing the idle screw in. I couldn't do it before. I still need to redo my oil pan gasket to get 1-2 in of vacuum : - ) Big thanks to everyone on this forum.

I saw no road rage during the two drives I took. People smiled, waved, and took pictures when the Jag stopped at intersections.

"Proceed with caution", "Full speed ahead!", and "To infinity and beyond!" all work as you tap the proceed button on the app screen. 😄

So I worked on the glass trim for the rear hatch glass some I have a nice 2 speed buffer but I don't like polishing these parts that way. If it grabs it they usually get destroyed and they're a little too much like blades to have whipping around you. So I used a buffing pad on a 2" Rolok This is what the finish looked like to start with I'm using white rouge This is after. You can still see some scratching but they will do for now. If I let myself be OCD, I could wet sand starting with 1500 probably and then buff but I don't want to slow my progress down right now On another note, I soaked the blistered yellow zinc in citric acid for a day or too. When they came out they were black. But come to find out that just rinsed right off with water and a toothbrush. Then dried them off. I will bead blast them again before I replate

Ooooo that's nasty. Open cell foam will defiantly hold water but closed cell won't. In your first photo showing the passenger side fender it looks like the original rubber seal is still in place. For some reason on the assembly line, a blob of seam sealer was applied blocking the drain hole on top of the wheel well. Any water that does make it past the original rubber seal just sits there in a pool eating away the metal. It's a hard place for water to evaporate from. The last pic I have chipped the old seam sealer out and cleared the drain hole.

In case you do eventually get a driverless car for your wife and daughter, you might want to start learning Lidar repair skills if you plan on maintaining it yourself. Not much will be owner serviceable in the future.