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I am working my way towards getting the car off the lift and sitting on its own suspension. I was able to assemble the rear struts two nights ago and get them on the car. I had to order bump stops as I had forgotten about those - $100 plus shipping for these Koni ones. It was nice not having to compress the Suspension Techniques springs for the rear to get the strut assembled. Somewhere, I believe I have the spring rates written down for these. The rear springs have a thicker coil wire. And they are a bit stiffer than the fronts if I recall correctly. Lock washers pictured are a bit small - I had to swap those out. Note the "9"s on the strut to body nuts. I still haven't done anything about my rear control arms - not being able to remove the bushings. And therefore, they have not been painted black yet either. And I did hear back from Motorsport Auto. They are sending me modified gland nuts for the front struts. They are coming from CA, so will have to wait a bit for them. I think those are the only parts that are holding me back now from mounting the wheels and tires and setting this thing on the ground.

The two at the top right are the hood corner stops that get a rubber cover, install behind the rear hood seal. The bracket at the bottom right is for the flow guide valve under the ballast resistor. The two in the middle right might be for the wiper arm.

What I'm thinking is that you carry an IR thermometer in the car and find a place to park safely when it acts up. If the problem is heat related, you should easily have a couple of minutes to measure the temp. Also another trick is to keep a can of dusting air in the car. If you can hold it upside down in that tight space, spray the HEI with the dusting air. The contents should come out as a liquid when upside down and evaporate quickly when the liquid comes in contact with the HEI. That will cool the HEI rapidly. If full function returns, you most likely have confirmed an overheating problem.

These results make a lot more sense, and it mirrors my testing. Your switch is functioning properly. The next step is to connect the switch, disconnect the wiper motor and test the grounds out there. I'll write up the procedure soon.

I believe those two disk parts are limit stops for the carb nozzle adjustment knob. Thread a nut onto them first and then thread that pair into the underside of the round tops after the nozzle has been installed? Prevents the accidental complete unscrewing of the adjustment knob. I think I have pics around here somewhere.

Do Not use anti seize on plugs. If you do get the copper impregnated type. You must have a good ground path on the threads for plugs.

OK - so on the drive home from work this afternoon I drove it pretty hard - higher rpm shifts, kept it in 3rd for longer, and drove at higher speed than normal. The engine does feel more 'crisp' & responsive with the HEI module - BUT - it started breaking up much worse on the last leg of my highway run, had to back off the throttle, and it still kept clipping/dropping out. I'm assuming it's the bootleg brand module, so I took the time to swap it out for the GM one. I found that to access that area of the relay panel, the glovebox had to come out, so I decided to relocate the module where I could access it more readily. If the problem persists, I'll just switch back to the stock ignition system.

Daniel Stern has frequently downplayed LED lights for automotive applications. This includes replacing incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs in side markers, taillights, etc. While I'm not a "recognized expert" like him, my eyes don't necessarily agree with his opinions.

Take the wire off the coil and spin it with no plugs. It'll need the oil on the valve train after sitting so long. Follow atlanticz advice, I always have.

Nope. The next test will require the switch to be installed. We know it tests good, so now we will use it to test the wiring.

Spraythem down with carburetor spray as well

I'm not sure of the heat produced by the Volvo ignition vs the GM HEI. Thermal mass is what I'm concerned about. Is there enough mass to absorb the heat from the HEI and reject the heat into the environment. Most of the HEI heat sinks I have seen include cooling fins. That makes me think that heat rejection might be an important consideration in design. If you have an IR thermometer, it might help you figure it out.

IMO fix the spark issue first. Way to many variables here.

Following SteveJ's suggestion I've been converting all the external bulbs to LED. I found in the process that my reverse light circuit was dead - no continuity through the reverse light switch on the trans. Checked when I was changing the gear oil. New switch in place. One of the Datsun guys on the Old Volvo forum said these switches tend to not last. Since I had the under dash open again for the HEI module swap out, I cut the R/blk feed from the switch to the rear & fed that into a relay as the trigger signal (86). Switched power to the relay is the R/gy wire, 2nd from the right. No fuse in the pic yet. Output from the relay (87) then connected to the R/blk going to the rear lights. Used 6.3mm spades for the harness connections, M/F, so I can bypass the relay if needed for any reason. Maybe it's not as likely to fail with lower draw LEDs anyway.

Do you think you have enough of a heat sink on the module? It sounds like the old one could have been overheating. I do like the fact that the heat sink is above the HEI, though.

When centering the needles, screw the nozzles all the way up to the top. If the needle encounters resistance at closed throttle and you can't get it perfect, lower the nozzles to the running position (2 1/2 turns down) and it's likely they'll be fine.

Yes, the harness works on a 70.

I wouldn't think temp rating would be a huge problem . Max temp is probably 225°F or so. After that it's overheated anyway

Another early 1970 Vin 01115 up for sale near Portland OR. $8K https://corvallis.craigslist.org/cto/d/albany-1970-datsun-240z-series-jan-70/7682266894.html There are more pic's and Info in the ad.

I'd start by cleaning it up, remove anything that's loose, and then go at it with a wire brush on an angle grinder. Once that's done poke around any suspicious areas with an ice pick. That will tell you which areas are thin.

Been waiting a long time to look out my office window and see this.