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Well I think I’ve sorted this out. Here’s what I did. - New spark plugs - valve lash check and adjust -move temp sensor to thermostat housing and replace. -oil change (needed anyway only I looked under valve cover) She’s running great again and not rich anymore. No more spitting black mist out the tailpipe.

Thanks for all the suggestions. The issue is defiantly rotational, as above 70mph it begins to fade, still there but not as strong. Just have to drive 80mph all the time :). Found the shop to fix the issue. Lucked out and found two guys running a shop who came from the aerospace industry. Designed wheels and tires for NASA vehicle's and speed record cars in Bonneville. Walk into the shop (tiny old building) and they just finished a week at the Long Beach grand prix truing wheels and tires. https://www.natejonestire.com/ They listen to my story and said you're battling unsprung tension? The service is cheaper than new tires, will report back after.

Haha! The car this is going into is running uber lean, and one of the other things I discovered while poking around with this AFM is that someone had been in there before and had adjusted the spring gear to be about ten teeth leaner than when it left the factory. I'm not sure the AFM spring is the only thing going on with the car running lean, but it's certainly something that needed to be addressed. I put the gear back to factory position and we'll see what happens when I seal this AFM up and get it back in the car. So this AFM has clearly been messed with and abused in the past by a PO. Sticky and lean.

You could have a bent hub flange or axle. It happens. Setting up a crude runout measuring device would tell you. Jack up a wheel, place a block some kind next to, put a stick on top and place the end close to the tire and/or the rim. Spin the tire and watch the gap between the stick and the wheel. Do the sides and the tread.

Nice, I like stories with a happy ending.. Good work!

OK, so the next step in the ordeal was a success. I drilled and tapped one of the places that used to be a rivet. I did one of the positions along the top. Looks like this: So now there are three screws that hold the cover on. One along the top and two near the bottom: This is just a test fit with no sealant, so the next step will be to take the cover off again and put some silicone on the sealing surface and then screw it together "for good". And after that, put it onto the car and see what happens!!

I should have a pair of originals, if you want to lose the fuzz....

Soo. today i have some big news. but let's start with the usual deliveries: 1) Something i've been searching for a while now. Well Actually i'm looking for the LHD L-Drive but this is the closest i found so far: an UK R-Drive manual: For those who don't know the L-Drive / R-drive is a Parts manual folder, but due to it's size it has the most detailed drawings and some additional informatino which is difficult to see or not existent in the microfiches, parts booklets etc. So my experience is that these are the most detailed parts books availabe (outside of NMC of course): Looks like your usual parts manual. This one is specific for the 240Z / 26oZ RHD Export specificatino booklets. so mainly UK and AUS, i guess. but i still have to see. I got it from the UK. 2) I also got this LH Inner wheel tub from KFVintageJDM in Bogota: Some may remember that i already got t his part from Tabco (USA). but i was never satisfied with the quality. Just look at the details like the little "humps" which are basically nonexistant in the Tabco item: Or the way they're cut at the edges, etc. And they came just in time, because i just got a coll from my Bodyshop that they will finally work on my car starting on Monday. Full-time with three men! Expecting big news soon. Early next week i'm going to visit them and bring an entire truckload of bodypanels for them to exchang :-)Stay tuned for more soon. hopefully. Oh and forgot to post this stuff which i got a while ago. 3) M-speed Nismo Competition racing mirror replica: Ventilation Intake pieces: And a nice print from Etsy: Which now found a nice place next to my signed Starroad Print in my garage. Let's see what the next weeks will bring. I also have a NOS parts lot find on it's way here and i'm just placing an order vor a cool Piece in Japan... Stay tuned for more

Recently a Datsun Friend introduced me to the "Service Data and specification" booklets, which i was unaware of before. Naturally i had to investigate, and luckily i found one for sale online. Strangely i have only ever seen the earlier versions in a mixed english / Spanish language print so far. However when i checked out my friend's DSSA parts lot recently, it also included a bunch of 1979 version booklet in german: The 1979 version only includes the S130, so the following pages are from the 1973 version with some pictures of the S30 stuff. The booklet's intention is for the Datsun workshop mechanic to have an overview of different specifications and interchangeability from the different NMC cars of an era. It is divided in general specifications, Motor and Body. There is also a similar booklet for non-passenger cars (trucks, etc) Here's some example of model codes used in the documentatino and some basic specification, which does not include the non-export versions. I like the overview, like shown here the different suspension options, on one page. I will use these to update some of my previously made knowledge posts. Here's another example, showing the Manual 5-speed transmission of 1973 (previous version not included). but it's a great overview of data. And there is plenty more to dicsover. Oh, and i had a talk to my bodyshop about the progress and it's still on schedule to restart work in approximately three weeks. Can't wait 🙂

So I assume from the banter about burning out the mustache bushing... I'm assuming you're putting poly in the old shells? And if you've got the hydraulic press, dealing with the outer rear bushings isn't that difficult either. Getting something fixtured square and supported correctly underneath is always the hardest part. In other words, once your sure you are getting all the force on the correct parts and in the correct direction, the rest is usually easy.

On the advice of a friend, I bought a transmission jack from Harbor Freight to hold up the differential. The nice part is that my 20% off coupon was good to use for buying it. The coupon said jacks were excluded, but I guess it meant hydraulic jacks. I also took the opportunity to buy a set of 3/8 impact sockets, and at Home Depot I picked up a compact 3/8 impact gun. Now to find what bolts are uncooperative.

Mine weren't as bad as yours so I just removed the old bushing cups and made new ones. If you want to save that mount you're going to have to cut out that rusty hole and weld in some new plate then re drill the hole, I think it is about 8-9 gauge on that tension rod mount.