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I have made some more progress with bead blasting (after coal slag blasting), and priming and then painting of black parts. I am really pleased with how these are turning out. First pic: Gold in a sea of silver - that is the T3 transmission crossmember for installing the 240SX transmission. Second pic shows brake hose bracket repaired on one of the front struts. Third pic - the rotisserie makes for a nice place to hang parts for painting. Front strut: T3 crossmember, gas pedal, rear mustache mount washers, dash vent bracket: Other front strut: Rear strut: Other rear strut: I am about 2/3rds of the way through the black parts. The nice thing about getting these done is that I can move on to some more of the assembly part of this process. No word from the painter about work begun on the car. Still waiting for paint sample cards.

It's easy to f#@k up an AFM.

Trying to make sense of the dial up more fuel thinking. Mine is about half way between 0 and 10 on the volume knob. That's back to normal running on my 280. Resistance is trying to cut my dog's toenails.

It was too windy yesterday for me to sit and let the car come up to temperature. I was driving it today, so I did before and after photos. The interesting thing is the narrow band in resistance between stone cold and operating temperature. Cold: Operating temperature (from a very nice drive today)

UPDATE: for all those having issues, give this test a shot: jack up a wheel and spin it - you may also have my issue which is the lugs not in the right way/wrong lugs/bad lug holes/out of round tires/etc because you can see in the below the video the tire not spinning uniformly. I did this for all 4 tires and swapped the best up front which helped my wobble by 80%. Going to try new lugs in a few weeks after travel though too video: https://youtube.com/shorts/OwrFAXh1hfY

This was at the end of February There was some hardware that needed plating. So I had to get my bench back up and running. Didn't wanted to use ugly hardware on a new engine 😉

I thought it was for the hairspray. You know...brushes and all that a starter needs.

Another 1st Sunday of the month with great weather meant the Zs showed up again.

If it's already lean as mine was just consider without the pot switch you're at -10????? whatever. So I add the potentiometer and can make it 0 or dial it all the way back and lean it out to -10. Go full the other way and I can fatten it up so much it barely idles. So to quote some politician it's all relative to what it is today as to what it can be tomorrow.

Yeah, I don't remember where I first learned that, but it's a thing, Ozone is unstable and breaks down quickly in our level of the atmosphere, but it's definitely a thing! So I would surmise those vent holes are to prevent any pressure differential between inside and out side of the starter motor from causing a problem. Whether that pressure differential is from ozone or simply from just heating up the air space inside the starter, but you want to let it breathe.

Who'd a thunk it!!

Serious. The electrical arcing in the motor brushes creates ozone. Here's a snippet from wikipedia >> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ozone Incidental production: Ozone may be formed from O2 by electrical discharges. Unsuppressed arcing in electrical contacts, motor brushes, or mechanical switches breaks down the chemical bonds of the atmospheric oxygen surrounding the contacts. Certain electrical equipment generate significant levels of ozone. This is especially true of devices using high voltages, such as ionic air purifiers, laser printers, photocopiers, tasers and arc welders. Electric motors using brushes can generate ozone from repeated sparking inside the unit.

Mine has had a potentiometer for 20 years or so. I was organizing the garage today and I came across a hard copy of the instructions on how to install and tune it. I am pretty sure I printed it on a dot matrix printer. 🙂 Mine sits right on top of the intake and I haven't had to adjust it since first dialing it in.

let me see if the resistors have any effect tomorrow when they get here that should give me better in site. maybe that 2.2k ohm resistor in the wiring harness has some effect. I did bypass it with the direct wiring from the tach to the msd. my wiring is clean, as being electrician for 40 years, nothing is hacked but maybe I did miss something, we are never too old to learn something new. thanks

Seems like what you really need to do is move the power supply source for the fan. The tachometer and MSD aren't the source of the problem. It's the power supply to the tachometer and/or the fan.

It would depend on current flowing through the transistor, the one in the drawing (if that's what it is). It's that meditation law. Oooohhhmmm...

UPDATE: I may be onto something here. I pulled one lug with the car on the ground (flat with washer style) and noticed even though the zx wheels are not acorn style, they were NOT keeping the hub stud centered in the wheel so even though the wheels/tires are balanced, they are not centered on the hub overall probably causing the shake. Thinking back, I tried my friends new wheels and tires with his acorn nuts years ago with no shake but tried my other friend's wheels a few weeks ago with my lugs and got a shake. I will get acorn style nuts within the next few weeks and see what happens, but I think we may be onto something here.

My '77 ran horribly up until about 2,500 RPM. I jerked and bucked between running good and bad, popped through the throttle blade too but above that certain RPM range it ran great. I read and read until I was overwhelmed by possibilities of what it could be. I decided to take a chance and went to Radio Shack and got the volume knob for a stereo. $5 dollars and some speaker wire I have plenty of now I have the potentiometer in the passenger's floor board so I can fine tune while driving. From what I gathered in all that reading was the ECU would get out of spec over time and the pot addition brought it back to life. It worked great for me and now I have a new something to distract me while driving. Page 3 is the good stuff out of the whole thread...

One more possibility. I chased a bad vibration for over a year until, almost as a last resort, i checked the spacers I was using on the front wheels. They were only 3/8 or a 1/4 thick, but they were SO BADLY MADE (cheap cast pot metal) that their thickness varied SO much that the wheel had enough run out to cause the vibration. Bought some 1/4 aluminum flat plate, drilled the damn holes myself and TOTALLY solved the steering wheel vibration. Bent or out of round rims can also cause the run out too. Just jack the car up at each wheel, rig up a pencil or something to “just touch” the rim near the edge and rotate the tire and watch the clearance to the pencil tip as the tire goes around. Should be dang near no variation, maybe 0.05 at most. A runout gauge is the best thing to use of course but just as a check you can almost hold your finger there and check.