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I did repair job of a master vac for my 240Z with my friend. I almost forgot that I have a special tool box for S30 series. This time I opened the box and pulled a tool which is for twisting the backplate of the master vac. It worked!! 1973 Skyline GTR’s master vac is still available from local Nissan dealership, I used it as a donor for my 240Z. Some of its Internal parts are interchangeable. My friend also needed to do the same thing for his Z cars. By the way he recently bought two Datsun cars, 1935 blue and 1936 orange. They are still good for driving. Amazing cars! Kats

Motor/trans installed yesterday. It sure takes a lot of tipping to get it to slide in. I had a good helper and got it in without scraping the hood latch or rad support.

Wanted to chime in here. I’ve ordered a bunch of parts from zcardepot. They’re generally pretty good, with some hiccups. One is they never pick up the phone. Leave a message and they don’t return the call. I think its more a function of the inability to handle the work load. The owner Ryan seems like a good guy from the few interactions I’ve had with him. He’s running parts for Dodge Vipers also. I found this out accidentally. I needed new front and rear inner tie rods for my 2000 Viper and they’re almost impossible to find. I found a set on at a place named Viperpartsdepot. Sent them an email to ensure proper fitment and got a fast response. I ordered the parts and that evening i checked my email and got a PayPal message with a $250 charge to Zcardepot. I hasn’t bought and Datsun parts recently. I emailed Zcardept and he responded he runs both online parts fro both Vipers and Z’s. I think the guy is overwhelmed, but he ships fast and I’ve never been left hanging like Zcarparts. They left me hanging for months and never told parts were backordered. Here’s the screenshot of the email Ryan sent me.

I was getting ready to post that I bought a gasket (a while back) and it fit fine.

280zx L28 TURBO Haltech 550 install - Bing video

THANKS, THANKS A LOT! I think that's a good alternative for him.. Thanks man! I'll send him what i find when i google it. Mart(in)

Wheel has the same countersunk bevell and the lug nut. Sold with the wheels.

Yeah you seem like someone who knows the difference between a turbo car and an injector fan haha. It is my understanding that the Haltech 550 series will run the L28ET. There's a 2 part video of it being installed and run on YouTube. My phone seems to be too antiquated to insert a working link for it, but if you search "280zx L28 TURBO Haltech 550 install" you'll find it. If anything it's good to watch with a nice tall Pilsener in your hand.

Never say never. I should remember that myself... I think it is hard to discount it, knowing the provenance of your Works car. It may be the exception that proves the rule. I'm trying to think of any scenario(s) where a wheel using the classic tapered seat fixings might have been 'converted' to sleeve nuts, and have so far drawn a blank. I can't help thinking that it is more likely - citing Occam's Razor - to be original and correct for the car, and/or perhaps the whole '71 Monte Carlo Rallye batch (except RHD ex-'70 RAC car '694'...). The logistics of a Works team participating in a certain event dictate the it makes sense for all of the team cars to have the same method of wheel fixing. An event like the Monte Carlo Rallye - with tarmac stages, ice stages, snow stages and changing conditions between all three - requires multiple wheel and tyre changes. There would have been dozens of wheels - shared between the cars - with the Dunlop tyre trucks stationed at strategic points changing tyres on wheels, and team service cars out at designated service points carrying wheels and tyres to be changed according to the upcoming stages. Big churn. Obviously it would make sense for all team wheels to have the same fixing method/nuts. Even the ice note/recce/fast service team cars would follow suit. So without knowing for sure what the rest of the team cars used on the '71 Monte, I'd be reluctant to dismiss your sleeve-nutted wheels as 'incorrect'. There's even a slim possibility in my mind that they were something to do with the conditions on the Monte Carlo Rallye. Nissan's Works team had already contested the Monte Carlo Rallye several times before '71, so they knew what they were up against. There may have been some reasoning behind this...

Hello I know it has been a while since my last post, but sometimes other things get in the way of playing with our cars. I did want to close the loop on my post. After many trials and tests we think we have the problem resolved…and IMHO it was not vapor lock, as I originally suspected. Shortly after my last post, I ran the car on a relatively cool day (mid 60s) and sure enough it died after 40 minutes and would not restart for a while. Given the mild temperature, I began to suspect some other cause, as some of you suggested. I drove the car to my mechanic’s garage. The drive is about 20 minutes. I got there without problem and left the car running. Within 15 minutes the car died. At that point we disconnected the fuel line at the carb to check the flow. Upon cranking the engine, no fuel was reaching the carb. We checked and confirmed the fuel line between the pump and carb was clear. So, we installed a new replacement (GMB brand) fuel pump. The car started and ran for 30 minutes or so and died. Again. we disconnected the fuel line at the carb…no gas. At this point we suspected a possible problem between the tank and the pump, so we ran the fuel pump inlet hose directly into a five gallon can of gas. Cranked the engine but no fuel at carb. I bought a different replacement (US Motor Works brand) fuel pump. Installed it…would not work right out of box. Ran the test with fuel pump inlet hose in can of gas. Cranked engine…no fuel at carb. We installed a used Kyosan Denki pump…the car ran flawlessly for three hours. So, I acquired a new old stock (NOS) Nikki pump. The engine has been running fine for hours at a time. Totally baffled…could these modern replacement pumps be that bad? During all these tests where we had the car running for hours, we also discovered a couple intermittent ignition issues…which may, or may not, have contributed to the original problem. Twice while running the car. it suddenly died (no stumbling…just died). A quick check revealed no spart at plugs. The first time this occurred, we had power all the way to distributor. A check of the original cap revealed the center contact was damaged and perhaps causing an intermittent problem. The second time we had no power from the coil. The resistance on the coil tested within specs but since it is a NOS coil, I suspect it might be compromised and failing at operational temperature. All seems to be working fine with new distributor cap and coil. Thanks for listening and all your help. Jim