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Thanks Charles! I have been re-collecting and straining the used material. I like the idea of using a storage tub. That would keep the media from traveling as far. The weather looks sunny and cold today, good for finishing the stripping of paint and rust from parts. I will attempt to finish blasting of all remaining parts today. The struts have the remnants of what I believe to be a factory sticker: Each of my struts have this same left over sticker residue. It is narrower and longer than these: https://www.zeddsaver.com/products/datsun-240z-strut-decals Anyone know what they are/said originally? The previous owner hacked the brake line support bracket. I'll repair these before painting.

The $29 must have been in Canadian dollars. 😉

Yeah, now says $12.88. No clue where I got the $29 from. Could have sworn that the first price I saw. the older I get the more I’m amazed at my mind. Usually not in a good way. Anyway, hope this helps all of us Transmission builders. Enjoy

The left hand threaded main shaft nut on the FS5W71B transmissions has been NLA for a while. Smome member here had some made, but guess what? They are back in stock at Transmission Parts Distributors. Just got an email today. Bit pricey, $29 USD..... ouch.... https://www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com/fs5w71-transmission-nut-for-main-shaft-left-hand-thread-fits-datsun-nissan-81-nis-204/

It even says $19.95 was the old retail and slash reduced to $12.88. I bought two and still came out ahead. No sales tax either which is odd for a WA sale. (At first I had that same thought, Canadian dollars?)

Move the car out of the garage, first time since the 90s it moved under its own power. Moved 2 feet forward so I could test the reverse before I went too far.

If it is not functioning as it should then that is a possibility. I wonder if the springs that hold the check balls get rusted and fail? I doubt they are serviceable, but the function should be easy to check.

Well good news! new plugs (old ones looked pretty fouled prob from idling for 45 minutes, New CHTS (nissan), New O2 sensor (NTK japan). made sure the fuel tank was elevated so pump did not have to pull up (was about 1 foot below pump before). started, ran great, green led started regular flashing in a pretty consistant manner (before it was flashing but very inconsistent in on off duration). Not sure which was the magic bullet, i considered doing one change at a time but WTH, I just wanted to see if it was going to work. Next up will be to get a tach on it (ordered it may as well add to the test stand).

Thanks for the heads up @Zed Head, luckily I had a simple fix: the wires connecting the the switch under the rubber grommet were disconnected. I have reverse lights now.

I found the Littelfuse brand strip fuses that should fit the VW link box above on DigiKey and Mouser. Apparently the style is called HSB, and they are available in ampacities that are suitable for the Z. I'll definitely consider it for when I build the engine harness for my 240Z.

Replace the sender gasket while the tank was down, and the sender is still shiny with no corrosion. Looking at your pic of the seep at the sender makes me think I have some kind of seep somewhere lime that I'm chasing. I'm going to install the SUs and all the original stuff. PO put the webers on.

Yes, it's just a simple switch. Somebody had problems fairly recently with a switch that didn't switch. There's a button inside the transmission that rides on the shift rod for reverse and 5th. The rod has a ramped notch cut in to it and the button gets pushed in when the transmission is put in to reverse. It's easy to unscrew and I think it's above the level of the fluid. A meter will tell you if it's good. Or you can just disconnect it, put a meter on it to measure continuity and put the transmission in to reverse. The Nissan draftsmen even drew the notch on to the rod. Part #20.

Black diamond works good on steel but the round glass beads are best for aluminum in my opinion. Both I bought from tractor supply. I put my parts in a big plastic storage tub and that in the middle of my tarp. Bought a big strainer from walmart and reused the cleaned material. Worked good and saved me money on blast supplies.

I set up for blasting parts on Saturday. It was sunny and cool, great weather for blasting. When I was using play sand, my blue tarp caught like 90% of it. Switching over and using Black Diamond (coal slag product) for the first time, I noticed two things. It is much more aggressive than play sand - Haha! And, it travels a greater distance, so my tarp wasn't catching it all. As I said previously, the plan was to blast and prime and paint all the parts from that long list at once. Right... good one. The best laid plans... I made good progress though, running through and refilling the pressure blaster 5 times over the span of about 5 hours. So, now I have switched to doing blasting on weekend days as weather permits, and priming and painting in the evenings. The black diamond leaves quite a texture on the parts: Stripping of paint and surface rust is quicker, but I didn't want to leave the texture this rough. So, I am taking each piece and running it through my glass bead cabinet to smooth out the roughness: Driveshaft u-joints appear to be original and feel like they are in great condition: So, instead of all at once, I have a few phases of "production" - some parts still to strip, some stripped bare, some epoxy primed and waiting for minor filling of scrapes and nicks, and some painted black: We'll see what the weather and this weekend allows.

So ... there are a lot of opinions on butts, versus laps/flanges and plugs versus stitches. I use all of them depending on the circumstance. For example: I will almost always lap, plug stitch when attaching “Important” old metal to new metal (like floors to transmission tunnel, or frame rails to the inner fender patch). I used almost every type on the Franken Fender ....