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Probably just me, but when I see the 240 dash, I see this:

I assume that #5 dropped a zero and is actually 0.0028 not 0.028... Not super consistent gaps but I agree with X that that is probably not where the problem lies

So yes, three of the readings you got were slightly out of range. Not enough to cause a dramatic change in oil pressure, but still of concern. I believe you mentioned that the oil pressure was fine, but suddenly changed, is that correct?

All the torque specifications needed are either in the factory service manual, or, if using the 9mm rod bolts, the Frank Honsowetz book How To Hotrod Your L Series Engine. Use the factory service manual, or the book by Mr. Honsowetz. I’m not sure what you mean here. Did you use a torque wrench like this? A beam type, or a dial type are the only types of torque wrench that will allow you to see the force required to move a fastener, i. e. how tight it was. Once the fastener is moved, it will no longer be at the proper torque. Using a click type torque wrench cannot do this with any degree of accuracy. You need to measure the shank of the bolt, not the end of the threads sticking out of the nut. Again, the factory service manual will have everything you need to know, including proper bearing clearance. I’m a little confused Wally. You mentioned you checked the torque on the fasteners, but now say you haven’t opened your torque wrench. Also, as an aside, having never opened your torque wrench, how did you tighten the lug nuts on your wheels? Sorry for getting off topic, but lug nuts should always be torqued to specification.

less torque on the bolts won't mean more clearance and less oil pressure. but you might need new bolts - they may have stretched at that excess torque.

This may help: https://zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/index.html

Some people think the multiple discharges reduce the number of misses at idle. So it might help a bit for emissions. This still seems like an odd thread. Lots of work to try to fool the emissions tester. Whatever you think about the purpose of the laws, really, this thread is about breaking the law. Why not stick with stock, pass the test legally, drive it around while you're in CA and build a separate motor the way you want it to be? You don't even know what the stock engine is like. You can do the lightweight flywheel and lower gearing without worrying about emissions.

My error, the hole in question is the cigarette lighter, not the ignition. I think what worries me now is the differences in the dash contours. This could cause some problems getting the leather to fit properly. The 260Z dash does not go down as far as the 240Z dash. That could be helpful since I can make the dash cover smaller, not larger. The 240Z dash has cutouts for the cigarette lighter and hazard switch. For the 260Z, the switch moved down to the center console. Note the hazard switch hole for the 240Z has variations, too. The lighter hole is a problem since there is nothing I can do to move the hole on the leather and would have to replace this section of leather. The shape of the ventilation controls area is different. I might be able to stretch the leather to get it to fit. The gauge lights dimmer and trip reset are on the front of the dash on a 260Z. Cutting new holes is not a problem. There is a cutout for the glove box lock on the 240Z. The lock is integrated into the door on the 260Z. No hole was cut out in the leather for the glovebox lock so I'm good there. There are some contour differences, too. The change in contours could be a killer. It might be worth giving it a try before I spend money on replacing the section of leather under the steering wheel.

Love the half shafts!

I'm not sure what you mean by the ignition hole. The ignition switch on my 240Z and 260Z are on the steering column. Differences: The 260Z dash does not go down as far as the 240Z dash. The 240Z dash has cutouts for the cigarette lighter and hazard switch. For the 260Z, the switch moved down to the center console. Note the hazard switch hole for the 240Z has variations, too. The shape of the ventilation controls area is different. The gauge lights dimmer and trip reset are on the front of the dash on a 260Z. There is a cutout for the glove box lock on the 240Z. The lock is integrated into the door on the 260Z. There are some contour differences, too. 240Z 260Z

The yellow paint marks were applied to certain fastenings that were part of the production line process at Nissan Shatai's Hiratsuka plant. Since the differential wasn't assembled at Hiratsuka - same as the engine and transmission - the guys on check duty at Hiratsuka would most likely not have been tasked with checking & marking them. As for self-locking nuts, I should imagine the guys tasked with checking and marking them were making sure they were (A) present and correct and (B) torqued to spec.

I'm kinda confused by a couple things. First is... What are you considering a "new method" for sealing? If the new method is the use of steel bushings pressed into the carb body, then you are mistaken. That's not new. That's how the carbs have been produced all along. Steel bushings pressed into the bodies, and (presumably) honed to alignment and size after being put into place. In other words, the carbs never ran the throttle shafts directly against the soft aluminum of the body. There was always a steel sleeve in there. Second thing that confuses me is... Why?? I mean, I see there are clearly impact marks and someone broke both the body and the steel bearing with an inappropriate amount of poorly aimed force, but why? What would make someone resort to hammering on the end of the throttle shaft? Was it stuck SO bad in the body that was the only way they could get the shaft out??? Why???