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Got lucky with this purchase this morning - a NOS hatch lock! And it comes with two of the old style keys! I bought a lock from Kuwait recently for a Cedric that came with two of these keys. Using a lock tumbler kit, I started rekeying my locks (which is not difficult). And now, this comes along. 🙂 Sometimes this happens: I buy one thing to solve a need (need two old style OEM keys), and then find a better deal that solves another (hatch cylinder even after re-keying was quite worn). So, now, I will have two sets of these old style keys, but a new hatch cylinder without wear (and no need to have the lock cylinder outer sleeve re-chromed). I also was able to find another Datsun tumbler kit. This one has the ignition switch tumblers.

Best bang for the buck and not worry about sniffer test is an aluminum flywheel. You can buy one or have the OE lightened as much as possible. I got lucky and bought a 240 project with an 11 pound Tifton or Tilton?? but Findaza still makes them I think. My car revs like a motorcycle. With the header and performance exhaust it sounds like a Ferrari screaming bloody murder.

Just wanted to say thankyou to ea6driver for the parts. Very easy to work with and all parts worked. I purchased the Thermo-time switches and all were functional.

As far as oil type used I've been using Driven HR1 15W-50 Conventional Hot Rod Oil (drivenracingoil.com) and have been very happy with it. Has all the additives for our older engines.

OEM NIB shocks 56105-E4125, can't get much more original than this: Keith

157 posts before that one. Too many to go back and try to figure out the history of the transmission. 3rd and 4th use the same shift rod. Are you shifting with the clutch pedal down? Rolling the car a bit? You said "shouldn't it go in to gear if in neutral". Doesn't make sense. Neutral is not in gear.

I don't think smog will be able to tell what the compression ratio is. Whether you can get the EFI to run properly with it, is another story. You could always add a rheostat on the temp side of the EFI to dial it down some but that still might not work. If I were going to build a motor and wanted more power, I would probably ditch the factory EFI. It's not very tunable. Build what you have to and get it running and then mod it after you move and know what the new rules will be at your new address. High compression motor with SU's, or SU throttle bodies, ITB's or go turbo. with as much displacement as you can afford

There were the wrong nuts in the package.

Despite the freezing cold morning air, several of us drove our Zs to a local car meet. We were joined later by a 350Z, and an AE 280ZX.

I like the “fingers” built in for a more secure grip. Great job!

Hi Keith, sorry it took me a while. 1) i realized i have two similar sets (i thought they were different ones). Both Have the part number 56105-N3785 The labels says GS30 (Hard) 74-11 and S30(Hard) 74-11 Both sets came from two independant european dealers (one from germany, one i found in Austria) with the set including a sheet on how to install them. The manual seems to be generic, as it also includes instrction for the 510 and other cars: this is the other (exactly same) set with the same sheet included, but the backside shown. The backside is written in Japanese. and clearly shows the "AMPCO" logo, even though both sets of struts included are of "ATSUGI" brand. That is because AMPCO = Atsugi Motor Parts Corp. So it's the same company, just different branding. This also seems to be confirmed in this thread, with the exact same strusts and installation sheet: Update: Here's a closer look at the scanned installation manual. Japanese on one side and english on the other side: If you look up the part numbers, they seem to fit for the S30. but only for the 260Z: As for up to October 1974, 56105-E4185 was used. "OP" means "optional". This usually indicates harder "competition" suspension, or european factory specs, as we usually got from factory, what was optional competition suspension in other countries. This information also seems to fit with the "Hard" and date indication on the box (see 2nd. picture in this post) I still have yet to find out what to do with the two sets. Also i'm not sure yet if they're the correct euro-spec for the 240Z. If have yet to find out if the 56105-N3785 is the 1:1 replacement unit for 56105-E4185. then it would be fitting. Otherwise it's "just" a set of (optional hard) struts for the 260Z (2+2). So i looked it up in the parts manual. took me a while to find one where this one is listed: So, you can see it is not listed as a direct replacement for the 240Z items. (ok that part is cut off on the right side, but it is not listed as the replacement for the up to 10-'74 items) Means, while technically probably fitting as a replacement. they were never listed or sold from factory as an official fitting item for the 240Z. So what do we have then? It seems like it is a fitting replacement front shock absorber for the 01-74+ 260Z 2+2 and 11-74+ 260Z factory items. But it's not a standard item, but - a complete strut cartridge ("for service") to replace the original "open" style strut inserts. - a "hard" spec, factory for european cars, or optional as "competition" items for other country cars. You might wonder why there are so many of these struts around in europe that i was able to "accidentally" obtain two sets of them? Well over here the 260Z never got replaced by the 280Z, so we had the 260Z for much longer, until it got replaced by the Z31. So i guess these might be interesting for one or another 260Z (2+2) owner outside europe. If you're interested, i once wrote a big post about the 240Z suspension and options here, but i haven't updated it in a while, so you might want to read it with a pinch of salt: https://www.jdmjunkies.ch/wordpress/2017-01-19/240z-the-ultimate-guide-to-factory-suspension-and-options/

Nice! Looks a bit like mine that i made myself.. (i prefer my light color.) I made a matching shiftknob on a lath from the same mahogany wood as the wheel. Does the wheel have the ridges for your fingers, can't see them in your pic's? You can clearly see the "fingers"in the wheel.. much apriciated as there is no powersteering! It's made of 12 pieces of mahogany wood.. some waterresistant wood glue and some 2 comp. glue to glue it to the steel wheel inside.

Recently we purchased some household area rugs from “Ruggable”. Most of their products are designed to be used on smooth hard surfaces, so they have come up with an underlay (they call it the “Pad”) that is rubberized and sticky on the back that prevents slipping on the hard floor, and has what can only be described as hook side “velcro” on the top side that sticks to the underside of their rugs, effectively locking the rug to the floor. It’s very thin, about and 1/8” (3mm). When I started working with it to lay down our new rug, I found it very frustrating to get the large rug to both keep this fancy underlay aligned with the floor AND the rug smoothly stuck down to the velcro like underlay. Smoothing out wrinkles moved the underlay and vise versa. Making it worse, the rug was large and I needed two sheets of the underlay, which had to be tightly aligned to each other. Sometime during this fight, I began thinking, “this stuff is astoundingly good at its job to the point of frustration” but it also struck me that it might be the answer to a problem I have with keeping rugs in place in the Datsun! I don’t think I’m the only one with annoyingly migrating rugs. I’ve tried spray gluing down the underlay, then glueing the rug to the underlay, but it always works loose. It’s clear why the stock top rug had those welded in hooks on the floor under the seat front and slots in the rugs to hold them in place. So I tried using this Ruggable sticky pad stuff and so far, I’m amazed at how well it works. I use it between the foil faced sound deadening I used and the top rug (with or without its sound deadening cushion) . I do spray glue the back of the rubber pad to make it stay in place to the foil, but I’m not sure I have to. The velcro upper faces sticks fantastic to the back of the rug.

Here's a radio I did with the chrome pen.

I used a silver Sharpie on my radio face plate and it turned out great.