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Gents, I’ve been off the net that past month or so. Life, family, work and other issues have kept me away from my time in the garage with the Z. Currently sitting in the Paris airport waiting to return to the US. It’s been an 11 day trip and I’m ready to be home with the family and back to work in the garage. Here’s where I left off last time with the car. Working on the stereo speaker install, the work it a bit tedious because of my OCD. I bought some 6x9 speakers to build a box below the deck to improve the sound quality. I have a couple more days of work to do there. This is my extra deck, so I can always go back to OE look. My headers came in about a month ago from ZStory. They look great, very happy with the stuff he puts out. I had been waiting a long time for this last part of his system so that’s in the works too. Im taking it this week to get ceramic coated, for heat transfer mitigation. The car has been driving great, the more miles I put on it the more the kinks seems to be getting worked out. I have a couple issues to address. I also finished the from carbon fiber lip install. I like this much better that the xenon valance. I’ll post a few pics. 1. High Idle - car idles fine on start but after driving it around and coming to a stop the idle will hover around 1000-1100 RPM. In order to get it back down I have to pump the accelerator one time and then it returns to 800. Let me know if anyone has a clue why it does this but it’s pretty consistent. 2. I have a rattle on my right rear strut. I think I have the spacer loose from the shocks bouncing around there.. I’m not motivated right not to pull it out .and address it. 3. A small oil leak. Getting about 10 ml of fluid that appears to come from near the passenger side closer to transmission. I think it’s coming from the reverse switch but haven’t confirmed it. Got a new gaskets waiting to be installed.

you close the jet all the way up and then you turn 2.5 turns from the base line. Lean is when the jet is flush with the bridge of the carb. The nozzle drops when turning it.

So did you remove the bulb and measure resistance across it or do some other test to verify you have a good bulb? With a bad bulb, you would still see voltage across the bulb. You didn't mention anything about measuring current. Also what is the resistance between the negative side of the dome light and chassis ground? How about between battery positive and the positive of the dome light? (Of course, those measurements are with the bulb out.) Was the bulb in your photo the bulb you used, or was there any chance you used an LED bulb? There is one other factor that would allow you to see voltage, but the circuit may not work. That would be corrosion, such as around the door switch. Think of it this way: Your battery is like a water tower. It's full and ready to supply water. You can verify this by using a pressure gauge (voltmeter). The pipes are all connected, and you open the valve (close the switch). However, you don't see much water coming out (no light). What you didn't realize was that the pipes are old, and a lot of calcium had built up, blocking the pipe (corrosion). If you had a flow meter installed (ammeter), you could measure the low flow. The resistance tests I asked about above are also like testing the pipes, though with the meter, you can get a false low resistance reading. Good voltage does not equal good current flow.

When the idle is hanging high, leave it alone, open the hood, and press on the throttle body linkage to see if the blade is hanging in the TB. I had that problem on mine and it was just a gummed up throttle body bore. Not uncommon, Nissan rerouted the PCV hoses to reduce the problem. The other possibility is the BCDD.

Have you looked at how the circuit is designed? Here it is from the 74 FSM, but all S30s are the same for the dome lamp. Measuring voltage at the light does not mean it will light up. It means it will light up once you give the circuit a path to ground. Corrosion on the body around the door switches can prevent the path to ground as the door switch grounds at the body.

You don't need to spend big pesos on a new dome switch... 💸

It was for the helper electric fuel pump. If you don't want it, I'll buy it from you for $40+shipping. If you're going to use an electric fuel pump, then keep it.

Appreciate the feedback!

The n42 was first then n47 for the 280zs. The p79 was on zxs. They're efi heads. If you could find an mn47 off the 84 maxima they'd be efi friendly plus small combustion chambers for better compression. Good luck, hope you find something.

To check continuity of a connection, that connection must be intact. Testing as you described doesn’t do that, it only tests the circuit through the wire, back through the system to the point on the chassis where you touch the probe. To check the integrity of a ground (or any connection) ensure the ground is clean, bright and tight. Then set the dvom to ohms, and using sharp probes, pierce the installation of the wire about 1/2” from the connection with one probe (polarity doesn’t matter here), then pierce the finish of the chassis about 1/2” away from the connection with the other probe. There should be some resistance, the lower the better.

Is your clockwise adjustment your view from the top of the carb or is it looking at the adjustment screw from the bottom of the carb? This makes a huge difference. When we describe turning the mixture screw clockwise, we're imagining looking at it from the bottom of the carb and we're leaning the mixture out. If you're imagining looking at the screw from the top and turning it clockwise, you're richening it. You could pull a dome and watch the nozzle as you adjust the height and tell us if the nozzle rises or drops when you turn it clockwise.

With the fusible links in Disconnect the voltage regulator and measure current. If you still see the drain, disconnect the alternator and re-measure. I am thinking that pulling either fusible link breaks the connection between the battery and alternator.

Charles has a good memory. It was, as I recall, just #4 that was fouling. Are they all fouling now after idling?

I called the shop today, he will try to have a look on the other 5 speed coming weeks. Im not in a hurry, he is alone and has lots to do.. So when that is finished I have everthing complete to swap the drivetrain to the euro spec.. I will see when could take a few years, have plenty of things to do now, currently restoring 2 classic mopeds from here ( kreidler and zundapp ).. and also this winter have to finish welding work on the 67 chevelle.

I'm confused... It looks like you only have half the switch in there? Like the whole top half is removed and missing? Like someone has totally hammered your switch to pieces? Take a look at this thread for some other pics: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/65118-dome-light-repair/

Good catch, I should have added that I did pressure test the cooling system and radiator cap when I installed all of that new hardware a few months ago. I also did a leak-down test yesterday and besides finding out I have a few tired piston rings, I confirmed there isn't any combustion gas leaking into the coolant.

your float setting is off .

What else do you think he would say? We are talking about California Datsun right?

I've been following your struggle for all of those eight years. If I remember correctly, the person who sold you the car has a less than stellar reputation. You might be stuck with the problem until you have the engine and carbs rebuilt by a reputable shop.

So it's our fault?

Every now and then the email links to new listings goes to spam. I contacted BAT regarding the problem, and they never replied. The innernet is a wild and dangerous place. Nefarious characters lurking at every turn, ready to pounce and rip one to bits.

It's on the front page of the site. They're probably getting hacked and spammed. My email account is getting a ton of spam, much more over the last few months, especially the last two days. Just got one that looked like an official Microsoft "unusual activity" email. The link to do something about it had "unusuaaly" in the link. Reported it as phishing.

You mean "the password is strong in this one" Obi wan.....😀 I could see where this could be a hack and they are data mining. "Upgrade you password"

Even compression #s (or close to it) in all the cylinders is more important than high #s in an old engine. Your second reading looks good. I've not limited the # of engine revolutions when testing compression in the past. I suspect that given a few more revs the #s would have popped up a few more p.s.i. I think you're good to go.