Leaderboard

Hey, guys! I found a low cost solution! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LJAGDOQ

I was not sure how this would turn. But with no one close to do cad. plating I gave it a try. I"m happy with it. He did all the cleaning of the parts and plating Close to me in Escondido ca.

SteveJ for the win! Thread is now full circle and officially closed.

I have a box full of dash harnesses that I picked up a while ago, hoping for some 240Z treasures. Not to be! These are free for the cost of shipping via USPS Large Flat Rate boxes. Most, but not all, are unmolested. PM me if there is something of interest. 24013-N3600 '74 2+2 24013-N3601 '74 2+2 24023-N3600 '74 2+2, CONSOLE, 3 UNITS 24013-N4202 '75, 2 UNITS 24013-N4700 '77

And the verdict is in. Yes you “Can”, but “Should you?” First attempt, not very neat, managed to break the glass, which should be left intact for structural integrity. The need to add a wire to bridge the distance gap is the biggest weakness of this approach. And yes you have to be careful with the heat on the plastic ATO fuse. And it was fun zapping the AGC fuse on a battery first. Does get hot, watch delicate pinkies

Interesting! If the plastic ATO fuse body survives the soldering heat as well as the internal fusible metal, then this is actually not a bad idea! I will get my soldering iron out today for sure. Imagine the fun of intentionally shorting a 12v battery across a bunch of AGC fuses to blow them up for use! Zap Zap!

Okay, so this showed up in my FB feed today after looking at this thread yesterday... I was also using Google to search for different fuse mounts. I'm really missing the days of thumbing through paper catalogs.

You would only have been able to fit 4-point harnesses on the driver's side, as there were no shoulder strap mounts/anchor points on the passenger side. Mounts could feasibly be added after the fact (I've done this on my 432-R replica project car because I wanted both sides the same) but they need a doubler underneath or - preferably - the welded-in L-shaped factory reinforcements and captive nuts as seen on the driver's side. So this is another one of those Works rally car-specific differences. The Works rally team fabricators were able to specify non-standard additions and modifications literally before the bodyshells were welded together.

I have the 280ZX w/matchbox and have the same problem with the tach, mine seems to stall at about 3,400RPM but the engine runs great beyond there. Been that way for about 15 years so I pretty much just ignore it. I pretty much shift by sound anyway, more eye time on the road that way too.

Did you use a service or do those yourself?

Soldering iron tip is my guess. Not Z related.

Can’t say that I’ve ever seen something like that on a Z.

I have to ask...is he a Boxer?