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If you cut it with a hacksaw then a hand file should finish it off. We're all so surrounded by power tools now, especially those with the new high power batteries, that the old basic human-powered hand tools often get forgotten. The hacksaw was the right first choice. Minimal heat, not too much work.

Okay, I made a short video to demonstrate.

For some reason in the past, I came across this part number for a Sentra Intermittent Wiper Relay part number: 28510-1M200 It appears as though it might still be available. This is the wiring diagram from the EL section of the Sentra FSM: Note that it is 7 wires. Edit: Oops, I finally noticed that there is no pin #4. That fits an observation that I made after I posted this. I'll have to see if this is a fatal flaw in my effort. Here is pin out on the 73 Intermittent Relay: It seems pretty close to the same. I just have to trace out the wires better for the 73.

So it takes weight to make it happen or the suspension in a certain position. That will narrow the possibilities

For me, it is. Everything I have is stock parts. Spectrum of different years, but all stock. I'd be happy to look into other systems, but I don't have anything here. It all started for me wondering what they did in 78 to allow the removal of the ballast resistor. And the answer is they started including current limiting inside the module in 78. Then av8ferg wanted to be able to mount two different style modules (ZX matchbox and GM HEI) on his car and be able to swap between the two if one of them failed. But when he tried it, he noticed a timing difference between the two. So I thought it might be interesting to investigate that. That's how I got here. I've been poking around inside the stock modules for some time now but figured nobody (other than me) really cared, so I didn't post about it.

Have you seen this new release from Nissan? https://global.nissannews.com/en/pages/all-news-archive Lots of Nissan News publications dating back to 1963. Some cool stuff in there. Here are some samples......

Took off and then apart the old connector. Nothing loose nor viseably wrong. I had a quick disconnect AFM connector on the shelf from a long time ago. I was just too lazy to wire it in before. Wired in the new connector plugged the car all back up and it started up on the first crank. No surging, popping out the intake or exhaust, etc. Took it for a few mile test drive and drives like a dream all the way to redline:) Thanks again everyone for all the ideas and support! Glad it ended up being this over any of the dozens of other possibilities it could have been.

@siteunseenPCV valve is in and working well. Actually was one of the first things I looked at. The PCV valve is at the center of the intake, not near where those EGR connections were. Anyways, by sheer luck everyone I believe I discovered the issue. I think there is a broken lead in the harness at the AFM connector. The connector is solid on the harness, however, when I wiggle the harness directly beneath the connector the engine either dies, stumbles, pops out the front, or surges. In other words, I got it to display all of the lovely issues the engine had. Funny cause somewhere in this thread I said that the "AFM connector is solid". Goes to show that you really have to pay attention to the little things on these cars, and not assume it's fine. Even if it was before. Now I am not 100% positive the AFM is the problem, because I have not gone in to try and fix it, but I am about 90% sure. Here is a video proving my point!

A long time ago I owned a 1967 Oldsmobile and the capacitor inside the distributor went bad and man that car ran like S--T. Spark was jumping all over the place except for where it was supposed to go. Dont rule anything out. . Do you have a timing light that you can hookup to each plug wire and watch the light flash to see if things are consistent with each plug?

Thank you Kent. By the way you described it, and with the springs you mentioned, I believe you'll be very happy with the range on these cartridges. Be extra cautious in regards to overheating the struts, and if you've not done anything similar before, it might be worth checking with a technician or machine shop who has. The key things are a sharp wheel, level cuts, and cooling it down often. Heat could really screw up what is in that cartridge just a few mm away. Let us know if you have any issues.

When I bought my 77 it would hardly run, bucking spitting and sputtering. I tried everything and then ran a mirror under the intake. There was a golf ball size hole rotted out where the egr tube connected to the intake. Under where your block off plate is. I deleted the egr system. The one vacuum line that was left after the thermal vacuum switch, TVS, I hooked to a nipple below the TPS box I think. Somewhere down there around the bcdd. Just a little story of my 77's problems. I've got the pictures on my laptop I can post when I can. You might find a recall sticker under the hood on the passenger's side if your's was fixed. Mine was not and that egr tube got loose and exhaust gas ate up my damn intake.

It's a good starting point since that's what most people here are running, but it would be interesting to learn more about ignition for the coil on plug systems. Just from talking with @Captain Obvious on the phone and looking at some videos he suggested, I was able to detect a potential issue with my 240Z by using my oscilloscope. The scope indicated there could be some extra arcing (having to jump more than the gap between the rotor & cap and spark gap) at the firing line of the spark at different cylinders. When I looked at the cap, wires, and coil, I found significant corrosion at the coil. Before changing the coil and wires (yellow wire is the voltage at the negative post of the coil): After the coil and wires were replaced (again, yellow trace): Next up is for me to get a current probe for my scope so I can chart the current limiting effects of some of the ignition systems.

Thanks @Joseph@TheZStore for the confirmation that they are the correct inserts (phew!), your advice and appreciate you asking around on the cutting/cooling for this situation.. it looks like that is my best option (and thank goodness they have the nubs to grind down to give me those needed few mm's!) Your 100% correct in that the history of modification done on these struts are entirely unknown, and i certainly don't see it as a fitment issue that would apply to anyone else's situation. I did do some research prior to confirm they were standard length (and there is certainly no sign of cutting either, on the tube or the top threads ), but having not modified them myself i can only guess! There was limited option in adjustable standard length shock inserts (i understood the GC option to be for sectioned struts), and i am still very grateful that you have developed this option for us! I am also very thankful for the information and support both yourself and Lee from Koni has added in this thread - its a rare opportunity and part of the reason i went down this road. as a side note - The car is not for track, just trying to clean up and mildly upgrade what i can to enhance it's on-road personality.. The GC kit came to me second hand with the tokico's and 300+ lb/in springs, it had clearly been track focused and unsuitable for my needs (i never ran them this way, just started rebuilding them when i got them). On advice from GC, i have new 150/175 lb/in springs going in to try and keep things within a comfortable range of standard, hopefully this suits the intended Koni shock performance curve.. i am pretty sure i will be happy with them once its all together! Thanks Kent