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Running a air box for two reason, dirt and mainly heat. What you don't see in this pic is the 4" intake tube is now mounted to back side of the front grill. screen filter in the tube at the radiator brace and a 4" inlet turbo waterproof nylon screen at the front end of the tube (grill) ITB horns are beautiful with chrome screens on the ends and look awesome when the box is off but under hood temps can vastly exceed coolant engine temps. My intake air sensor (mounted at the front end of the box) reads constantly half of the coolant temp. 160 coolant temp, 80 air intake. It's not forced air but the air draw at speed from a 4" tube at the grill is cool and abundant.

So here are a couple things about the 77 and 78 modules: The cases are electrically isolated from everything inside. In other words, there is no electrical connection to the metal boxes that house either the 77 or 78 module electronics. There is no current limiting in the 77s output stage. That is why a ballast resistor is required to limit the coil current. The 78 module, however, DOES have current limiting built into the output stage which is how Datsun was able to get rid of the ballast resistor for 78. Other than that current limiting and some temperature compensation (which the 77 also does not have), the electrical designs of the 77 and 78 modules are pretty much the same. Since everyone likes pics, here's a pic of the 77 module guts: And here's a pic of the 78 guts:

Long term update. It wasn't the injectors and for the hotter part of the summers that followed, I had the long cold starting issue. A few months back I added a manual switch in the cabin to bypass the Thermotime switch to get the car to start up on crank 1 or 2 regardless of weather which is awesome and works like a charm. That said, I replaced my fuel pump a week or so ago due to it being old as heck and pooping out once. While the car ran great once started, it still had that long cranking issue when it was hot out. I took the relay bracket out and cleaned the teeth of all of them then used a multimeter set to resistance (ohm) and checked the circuits from the teeth and low-and-behold found resistance. I pried open the relays that had resistance (fuel pump and main EFI relay - the fuel pump control relay was fine) and found black corrosion on the relay's rocker arms and tabs they connect to once triggered. After cleaning all of that off, I took another ohm measurement and got basically 0. I put them back in the car a few days later and without using the what I started calling the 'quick start switch' the car roared to life on crank 3. I was absolutely floored. All that to say, take your relay bracket out and take some ohm measurements of the circuits in each relay (after cleaning the teeth with a dremel wire brush or something). If you find anything but "0.02" or below resistance, pry them open and sandpaper off the black corrosion which is no doubt there.

Gorgeous engine bay! I can't cover my stacks, seeing them is part of my love for ITB. On my list to do are the custom stack filters (like singer) and then a belly pan that directs fresh air to the horns.

I couldn't get that method to work. Maybe the newer battery chargers are too smart and figure out there's no battery hooked up to it. I hooked the 260/280 tach with the single signal feed to my Sunbeam Tiger, which also has a Pertronix. And it works fine! It read high at 2000 when the Ford 260 was at 1500, which makes sense. So, I'm going to move the 7000 redline dial the that newer tach, should be good to go. IMG_7803a.mov

I finally got my car remote tuned. I had a few settings I didn’t understand, totally wrong, then my biggest issue is my iac. The haltech ecu doesn’t like my balance bar setup. I won’t give up. But I ended up plugging it for my road tuning. First impressions is wow. The car feels so fast. Even peels out a little, which seems crazy for a bone stock 2.4L. Wot passes sound magical. I ended up using Animal Tuning, who works for haltech and tunes on the side. I have dual o2 sensors, 1-3 and 4-6. 1-3 needed about 5% more fuel to obtain the same afr. Which was a pretty cool feature. Next is more wot passes and making sure AFR is on to protect the motor.

That answered the question! Thanks @Racer X “Early R180's measure 110mm inside the ring gear. 77 and later model year R180s measure 115mm inside the ring gear. This minor change means that the ring and pinions won't swap between the early and later models. If you have an early diff you must use an early carrier, and if you have the later diff you must use a later carrier. It is possible to use a early carrier on a later ring gear with a spacer…”

Here is a comprehensive write up on the R160 through the R200 differentials: https://www.diyauto.com/manufacturers/nissan/generations/240z/diys/differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount-faq-by-jmortensen Interesting to note that the Rxxx refers to the diameter of the ring gear, I.e. an R180 has a 180mm ring gear, the R200 has a 200mm ring gear.

Both options (professional repair vs do-it-yourself) have their good and bad considerations. The do-it-yourself option requires much attention to detail in order to create a good and lasting result. There are two or three good threads available on CZCC that will provide you with a list of recommended tools, materials, and procedures. Based on my own experience, the main limitation is that the final exterior finish -- typically accomplished using texturized 'bed liner' paint -- has 'look' and 'feel' that is different from the original textured vinyl. Although a casual observer would not notice the difference, a knowledgeable person will see it very quickly. I found some upholstery vinyl (long sheet with 1m width) that had a texture very close to the original material used by Nissan. Unfortunately, it was only available with a bonded fabric backing. Despite the use of a heat gun, it would not stretch enough to follow the contours of the S30 dash surface (those contours become quite extreme around the openings for the instrument pods. If you can find a suitable vinyl that does not have a fabric backing, you might be able to achieve a successful result. I look forward to reading about your dash restoration. There may be materials available to you in Japan that we in North America have not discovered.

Not here to debate whether or not someone should do these things. I’m here to understand IF it can be done because this information is not findable on the internet and there is a lot of bad info out there. For example, I didn’t know that the R in r180 stands for “Rear,” that there is an f180 that was used as the front differential in trucks, and that f180 gears are cut in the opposite direction, meaning you can’t use an f180 as an r180. I also didn’t know that the ring gear inside diameter changed from 110mm to 115mm at some point in the evolution of the r180 family. Pinning down when that happened would be worthwhile, as would when they switched from 100mm bolts to 12mm bolts and finding out if 9-bolt rings are standard or if there are others. I would also like to know if any manufacturers other than Subaru and Nissan used r180 differentials with the same case, as that would open up parts availability and swapping potential. While I appreciate that the complexity of messing with a differential may or may not necessitate caution, wether or not one use the full assembly or chooses to fine tune their differential with internal parts is up to them. Part numbers, years, models, measurements, and side by side comparisons would be very useful. (edit: the first question these technicians asked when I asked about putting 240z R&P in a Subaru r180 was what I asked in my first post. They are not parts experts across manufacturers, but people working in Subaru service stations. They know how to do it but know whether parts will swap.)

And she's done! Licensed and on the road and it only took 42 yrs. I'm wondering anyone is even going to notice the 240Z sunvisors, they look like they could be stock.

I got her running well enough to take it for its first drive, fun little car, went for a blast up my back road. A few rattles and vibrations I have to hunt down and need a new filler hose so ordered that today. The car is filthy from sitting in the shop since the paint job but you can get the idea of what it will look like when she's all shiny again, very pleased with the height, just where I like it. Don't want to look like a boy racer.

Have solved some problems and acquired others, fuel pump died on me so waiting a new to arrive soon, in the mean time trying to finish the rest of the car. I had a set of 240z sunvisors on the self so tried them in the 510, they fit! And fit perfectly, as if they might have been an possible option for Nissan. Spoiler and front bumper are on, brakes and clutch are bled, the rear window is done, carpet kit is in (those wrinkles are not in the finished job). Finished the SS threshold plates and installed the seats today, just need a fuel pump now.

I swear there is an unwritten law of nature that sates anything you install you will have to uninstall, several times for one reason or another. A productive weekend though, got the headliner and the rest of the vinyl trim finished, that's a nerve wracking moment when you take the Xacto blade and puncture and cut a hole in the headliner you've worked so hard on got to be done though, that light has to recess up into the center frame. I got the parcel shelf and footwell kick panels completed, both bumpers painted with 3 coats of clear, also installed the front windshield, just have to remove the exhaust system again so I can get at the fill plug on the transmission that hasn't been filled yet. Hoping to fill the tank next week and try and get it started.

Sound deadener and wiring harness is in, she's supporting her weight again and ready to install the engine/trans this weekend. The car will sit a lot lower when the weight is back to normal.

The rotisserie is back in storage and have started installing the driveline and suspension, I weighed both ends of the car before taking it off the mount 476lbs for the stripped shell, that's just slightly less than a 240z.

Passenger side is done, now on to the fun stuff, reassembly.

Got a bit more done this afternoon, roof, hood and trunk lid done just the P/S to polish out now and I can get rid of the rotisserie.

The big milestone today, paint and clearcoat done! So nice to say that, God I find painting so stressful, just so easy to screw up and wreck all your work. 3 coats of colour and 3 coats of clear, lots of little dust particles but they should all come out when I start sanding the clear with 1200 grit. It's the same colour is was when I bought the car only now the rust, dents and orange peel are gone😉