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Before you commit to 15" wheels, be sure you can find satisfactory tires. The selection in this diameter has greatly dropped in recent years. 16" wheels have a much broader selection available.

Okay, so this happened yesterday, but it's still within 24 hours... After performing well all last week at ZCON 2022, she deserved her spa day. And all done, ready to go for the next drive/cruise/car meet.

The Chinese are a threat to the world in many ways. They are the leader in CO2 emissions, are an authoritarian government that keeps its foot on the neck of its people, steals intellectual property, undermines civil liberties and uses it power and influence to strong arm companies and governments. The least of our problems are the crappy stuff they make but I agree. Not sure why we (western democracies) do business with them. The only reason I can guess is that we value money more that our western values. It’s like feeding the neighbors dog steaks over the fence, when everyday it threatens to chew your face off. We deserve what we are getting !

As I resigned myself that I can no longer put off attacking the spindle pins, I came across a tool that I hope will alleviate some of the pain. It's an inductive heater, and I also purchased some longer elements that I believe will allow me to wrap around the control arm. I need to order the spindle pins from MSA today. I get to use the gift certificate I won at ZCON courtesy of @wal280z providing me with his raffle tickets. By the way, Wayne, I will probably repurpose the Amazon box for the heater to pack your backpack and ZCON goodies.

Got it! Distributor was too far advanced. Had the distributor set to the mid-point marker, but turned it full retard to start the engine. Runs pretty smooth at 1100 rpm, but now I need to set the timing and fine tune the new ZTherapy carbs. Thank you for all your help! Nate

We certainly did have fun. Join the Iron City Z Club if you haven't already so you can keep up-to-date on Z activities in your area. In October is ZNationals, hosted by Z1 Motorsports. I'll be hanging out at track day at Atlanta Motorsports Park. The show location is about a 2 hour drive for you. https://www.znationals.com/

Well SteveJ, I am just now seeing this post... I live in Birmingham and only managed to make it to Cahaba Brewery Wednesday evening. Life is a balancing act and I am unbalanced at the moment when it comes to car stuff.. Hope y'all had fun. Tad

The "series 1" cars have the water through the intake manifold, just not into the carbs. The picture posted by @siteunseen (the librarian) of the 2 intake manifolds shows the water line on both the early 70-71 cars (4 screw carbs) and the 72 cars (3 screw carbs) the big difference is the 72 manifold has an additional loop in each carb mounting to route water through the carbs themselves.

Actually with the black on the rocker panels, the unpainted air dam works. Besides, it leaves more money for parts and tools.

I appreciate the offer, Charles. I'll see if I can rehabilitate my old puller first. I might have some time soon to test that tachometer for you, too. I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08PD8ZSXZ I liked that it had a carrying case and a good variety of elements. I'll take some photos if/when it arrives. The poor Amazon driver is having a long day.

Same error here. Screen goes red and I get the Unknown Server Error. I took what others did on their pullers and tried to engineer a better version. I used 1" acme thread rod with a thrust bearing. I had an old corner module that looked like it came from the Titanic sitting in my garage for years and I finally tried my puller on it when I moved to AZ. I thought the pin must have been broken. It pulled it right out. I've had others that put up a fight, but still came out. I have tried heat in the past and it never helped with pin removal. I think quite a bit of the pin trouble is from galling at the wedge pin rather than simply corrosion between the pin and the knuckle. Heat won't fix a boogered pin.

I used these: Amazon.com: QasimLed Bayonet BA9 BA9S 53 57 1895 64111 T4W Super Stable and Bright Led Bulbs Exterior Marker Indicator Interior Reverse Side Corner Light White 12V DC 10pcs : Everything Else They are dimmable and work with the stock rheostat. But like SteveJ said: "I haven't found a need to dim the gauge bulbs ... since I can't remember when." But then I live in Phoenix and don't get out driving in the country at night much. Lotta "light pollution" here.

Is there a difference between the 4 Cyl you posted vs this 6 Cyl? Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit for Datsun/Nissan, 240Z, 6-cyl Hitachi Dist | eBay

As I resigned myself that I can no longer put off attacking the spindle pins, I came across a tool that I hope will alleviate some of the pain. It's an inductive heater, and I also purchased some longer elements that I believe will allow me to wrap around the control arm. I need to order the spindle pins from MSA today. I get to use the gift certificate I won at ZCON courtesy of @wal280z providing me with his raffle tickets. By the way, Wayne, I will probably repurpose the Amazon box for the heater to pack your backpack and ZCON goodies.

It would seem I can’t upload video’s or images, as others have noted. I will try again when the issue is resolved. As they say, it ain’t real without pictures.

Ah yes my little jewel that is the Kardashian of the Datsun world, no real talent but having insufferable beauty, gazed upon lustfully these many years with no real contribution to society, now has to earn a living by vile hot sweaty noisy labour under the hood of an un-remarkable 4 door sedan in the middle of nowhere special. Poor thing. Is the value of an object defined by rarity or desirability? Or it’s ability to bring joy to it’s owner and those that share in the ensuing reverie? I prefer to believe the latter. Well this thing is now nothing but a (slightly) used L18. Never again will it be NOS. It has 15min of break-in time on it. I speculated that if I dared to declare that I had something no one else had, many others would come out of the woodwork and proclaim they have not one but two hiding in their basement. Thus I have not shared up until now. At the very least we will likely descend into the hell of arguing how real and accurate all the bits are to the SSS form. Or I may be scorned for committing heresy by putting such a rarity into a stock North American 69 4 door with no SSS heritage and slapping false declarations of SSS-ishness (which I fully intend to do BTW) upon its body? Well I have earned with age the privilege to do what I hell I want with it and enjoy the hell out of it, and just enjoy the slight smugness that no one, at least near me if any luck, has one (or two) just like it.

I drove it around the neighborhood a little yesterday evening, and I pretty much have it eating out of my hand now. The front carb's piston is a little sticky, as is the rear carb's choke. Once I clear those up, it should be 100% driveable. It's much quieter now at idle since I replaced the air injection plugs. I'm sure the brass plugs were leaking. A wiring connector to the combo switch at the steering column worked its way loose, so I have to tap the plastic shroud on the column to get the headlights to come on. Need to reseat that. Also, I finally installed this OEM underhood inspection light I found on a junkyard Z about 10 years ago. The plastic lens from the junkyard was cracked and yellow, but fortunately ZCarDepot sells replacement lenses and even LED bulbs. I don't think our Z ever had the light, since it's in the area where everything was removed/relocated to make room for the A/C compressor. There's a strong gas smell in the garage now. No leaks of any kind, but I wonder if the PCV valve I bought might be faulty? Need to investigate that and the evap system.

FTR a 50 year old Nissan crate engine fires first try with some gasoline thrown at it.

Yes, the carbs were rebuilt by ZTherapy back in 2011. I tried the carb cleaner misting trick, but it didn't seem to reveal anything (the idle was hunting so much I'm not sure I would have been able to tell anyway). Regardless, I got the intake all sealed up. New PCV valve, fresh balance tube gaskets: New steel exhaust manifold air injector plugs (w/high-temp thread sealant) to replace the ill-fitting brass ones I had in there previously. Also gave all the manifold bolts a retorque. I discovered some flakes in the rear carb line that must've gotten past the filter somehow, so I blew those out and checked the float and needle just to be sure. The engine seems much happier now. I sync'd the carbs and drove it around the neighborhood for a few minutes before it started raining. Idle seems steady and acceleration is smooth. I think it was a combination of a vacuum leak and potentially gunk in the carb line. Going to keep testing. Interior is coming together, though it's still got a long way to go. The steering wheel and handbrake handle need to be refinished obviously, and the radio isn't installed, but I wanted to get it put together "all up" before I have to pull the dash again to install the new heater control valve and the blower motor.

Oh, and DadAndLadZ, forgot to mention.... Now that you have that nail pulled out and all the idle screws backed completely out, both carbs should be shutting tight-tight. And if that's the case, it probably won't even idle. You might find that you have to manually hold the throttle open a little bit or screw the idle screws back in some just to get it to run at all. Or you could pull the choke lever. As you saw, it should open the throttle plates a small amount. Pretty sure you would have figured that out, but just throwing that out there.

Not sure that I agree. Once the engine gets up to normal operating temps, the carb heating loop is closed (as in: inactive, does nothing, might as well not be there). Any emissions-related benefits would be restricted to start and warmup conditions, where the presence of the manual choke would overwhelm any contribution that carb heating might make toward reduced exhaust emissions. Remember, too, that the federal exhaust emissions standards (and related compliance testing) at the time were performed only at ~ room temperature ambient air conditions and with the engine up to operating temperature (i.e. choke off, main thermostat open). It was always my understanding that the carb heating circuit was introduced in an effort to inhibit drivability issues caused by carb icing. Not all carbureted engines suffer from this problem. As well, it apparently isn't specific to constant-vacuum carbs, nor to inline engines, nor to water-cooled engines. Nor to cold-weather operating conditions. It seems to occur only with certain combinations of engine, carburetor, and engine compartment layout and under certain air temperature/humidity/engine speed/throttle-opening conditions. Evidently, Nissan decided that it had heard enough reports of problems with early Z's to warrant spending the (not-inconsiderable) amount of money required to install the carb heating loop (complete with revised castings for the carb bodies and the thermostat housing). There's a useful discussion of the Z's carb heating system on Hybrid-Z, here. And if you use the search function here on the CZCC site, you'll discover that several discussions about the system have taken place over the years.

And for the folks thinking about flying to California for 2023, I can't remember where the host hotel will be, but I'm betting you'll be better off booking a flight to Ontario International Airport. If the hotel is toward Riverside/San Bernardino, you don't want to fly into LAX and drive across town.

I remember at school... teacher said: there are NO dumb questions, there are only dumb students that don't ask!

The circulation of coolant through the intake manifold was to reduce emissions. A cool, more dense fuel/air mixture does indeed produce more power, but with more power also comes higher exhaust emissions. So warming the incoming fuel/air mixture lowers the exhaust emissions. I removed the passages and plumbing on the intake for my race Z and never have had issues with carburetor icing, so I doubt the system was originally intended to prevent the icing.

I think I could pass with a stand-in copy? We could put a couple close together and do the "shake and bake"?