Leaderboard

The ZX 39:10 differential I have is finally refreshed. I cleaned the inside with brake cleaner and wiped clean all the gears. The outside is painted with POR-15 and I kept the cover with the exposed aluminum. I put the old plug from my 3.54 differential into this one, because it uses a type for an box wrench vs the 1/2” drive type. I would not be able to service it with the ZX fill plug because there isn’t enough space between the back of the diff and the rear mount to inset a 1/2” drove socket. I put new synthetic 75W-90 gear oil in. Took more than what I expected. Read 1.3 quarts but it took about 1.7 before it began to run out the plug whole. Refreshing the 1/2 shafts now. Not fun cleaning all this gunk, and time consuming. Still waiting on my powder coated parts to be done. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well after more than an hour on the phone with @Yarb today, I’m closer to a flywheel decision than I had been. Hopefully I didn’t get him in trouble with his wife as he only had 35 minutes to get to Publix and do some grocery shopping before they close. Thanks John!

Orange you gonna tell us?

I've read good things about uship.com. The guy that bought my Dad's el camino off bat.com used them too.

When I did this I removed only the smallest two rings of the snubber cone. Mine does fit tight against the differential which is what I wanted for the time being (trying to remove all play from the driveline). There is some noise/vibration but t it's not terrible, and I honestly can't say for sure that it's due to the RT snubber. If you don't want any normal contact with the differential then you should probably shave off the next half a ring. Just a data point - the previous suggestion of trying various sizes of socket seems like a great idea. Sent from my KB2005 using Tapatalk

Sorry, all I can provide is more reading material. At least the second link has someone describing his experience. https://www.hagerty.com/assets/PDF/DomesticShipping.pdf https://www.hagerty.com/media/advice/shipping-a-car-heres-how-and-why-to-make-the-right-choice/

You could try this site. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/32609e9000 I think the parts you are quoting are for the later 300ZX transmissions. I think the only insert that fits the early models is the 5th gear. The early 83-84 model 300ZX should be the same as the 280ZX. The one with the 16mm gears. I have ordered parts through Amayama before. All genuine Nissan parts sent from Japan. Took about three weeks to get here in NL.

I think I know what inspired the scammers to use the phrase "Hello buddy".

Thanks Dan. I tried to find that posting. The search function on the forum isn’t great. You asked about the differential removal. So if I had to remove my differential again since your might be doing this soon here is how I’d do it now . 1. Remove the sway bar. It blocks easy access to the propeller shaft bolts. Not required but will make it easier. 2. Unbolt Half Shafts and propeller shaft from Differential. If the car is on jacks make sure wheels are off ground so you can rotate them to get different angle access to the bolts. 3. Tie the nose of the differential to the strap above diff. I used a slip knot so I could easily lower when ready. 4. Drain the differential-easier while mounted on car than sitting on the floor. 5. Remove skid plate under cross member. (2 bolts) 6. Unbolt differential from the crossmember mount (single bolt on cross member) 7. Remove differential crossmember (4x14 mm bolts) This is where you need to be careful. Lower the car and put a jack under the back of the differential with a little support. 8. Unbolt differential from mustache bar. 2x20mm 9. With the weight of the differential supported by the jack and the wheels of the jack orientated forward and aft. Slowly push the differential studs out of the mustache bar . Once they’re clear. Slowly lower the jack to to floor. Lift the back of diff off the jack and then untie the slip knot and lower the differential nose. You’re done. Now I’d your have a transmission jack this would be much easier. That would be the preferred method. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Let me read through the thread and see if I can offer anything.

Good luck with the remainder of the connector cleanup. Note that issues with the coolant temp sensor would affect all cylinders, not just one (so that's not what was causing your misfire on #1 only). But in any event, it's a very important input to the EFI system and it must be clean and reliable. And don't forget to clean up the other sides of all those new connectors you've already installed. The male "outie" pins on the fuel injectors, for example. Some people in the past have had issues at the large connector right at the ECU, but I've never seen an issue there. In my experience, that connection point is clean and shiny because it's lived its life inside the interior of the car instead of out in the engine compartment. Worth a peek though, just in case your car sat for a long time in a high humidity area, or had a water leak from a window or cowl drain or something.

I hope it isn't this color.