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Here are a few pics of the tank upon arrival. I’ll post internal pics once I get back to my shop.

Might this be part of it? Sorry.... https://www.theguardian.com/sport/2022/jan/11/georgia-alabama-national-championship-game

I have to disagree with @siteunseen. The vacuum hose would connect to a part that has been removed. There should be a control valve mounted to where I have the arrow. The control valve and dashpot are described in the EC section of the factory service manual. Here is a picture from page EC-2: The control valve and dashpot prevent the throttle from closing as rapidly when you take your foot off the gas pedal. That reduced the volume of unburned hydrocarbons out the exhaust.

Keep on top of it and get rest. Speedy recovery.

The illustration of the front suspension is early type showing the cooling fin on the rotor backing plate. The rotors for that would have been the 'vented hat' style rotor.

feel better and stay well siteunseen

Once you corroborate that all the electrical sources of failure check out, you can also pull the sender from the tank, bend the floater arm downward about an inch (toward the bottom of the fuel tank) and reinsert in the tank. That should allow your fuel gauge needle to move to the right with the same amount of fuel in the tank. It will take some experimentation but you should be able eventually to get the gauge needle to go fully to the right with a full tank of gas. Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

I'm self quarrentining until my test results come back for the newest Omicron. Haven't been feeling very well and don't want to infect anyone so I sit here at home with my dog and my beer, laptop and nothing more but time. That's why I'm a little chatty today. Thanks for giving me something to do! Hopefully I can help somehow?

My S30.World tank is mounted in the 240Z. Now I just have to wait for half decent weather so I can take it for a drive.

Uh oh. I thought it was part of the a/c, sorry.

Have you cleaned all of the connecters between the fuel gauge and fuel sending unit? Corrosion will show up as extra resistance. Extra resistance means lower readings.

Good news. A friend gave me his old rear drums from the 240z I sold him. I plan on taking the brake line from the and swapping the line that has the stripped fitting. Letting it sit with penetrating oil before I use the “correct” wrench to disassemble.

I know this is a restored example but if you haven't already you should check out the build discussion for @jayhawk's '73. It's absolutely beautiful.

The coating is starting to "lift" from the glass. I don't think it can be repaired, just replaced. A local glass shop should be able to advise you.

Cerakote for the locks could be a good option

Cliff, once again you saved me a bunch of time. I just ordered those bulbs for the gauges. So much work….so little time.

A trick I do is hold the shoes together whith the springs then put them in the cylyder's slot and push them on. Hold them in place until you get the heads on the pins if that makes sense. Good luck.

Go to bat.com and find an original '73. Tons of pictures on there.

I picked Ford just for fun but there's a selection of 280Z pumps also. The Ford pumps have special nipples. Probably the same pump as the Nissan pump. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1976,280z,2.8l+l6,1209226,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256 Ford - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1111648&cc=1121779&pt=6256&jsn=32 280Z - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1112295&jsn=267

Forgot to say the factory pump is only about 30 GPH. Many people get the Walbro high volume pump and experience noise because it pumps way more fuel than the engine needs or the lines can handle. The 240Z is known for having a small return line also which sometimes makes fuel pressure hard to regulate. Here's a calculator to get you close. That Motorcraft pump is used on their smaller 4.9 liter engine also. The Delphi and Bosch pumps are worth considering too. https://raceworks.com.au/calculators/fuel-pump-calculator/ http://www.kylesconverter.com/flow/liters-per-hour-to-gallons-(us-fluid)-per-hour https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1988,f-150,4.9l+300cid+l6,1121779,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=383109&cc=1121779&pt=6256&jsn=1074

I used the Airtex E8312 pump, and got about 40,000 miles out of it. It's quiet is you mount it correctly. If you want to spend a little more you can try a different brand. Ford used a high pressure external pump for their late 80's models. Looks like it comes with a mounting system that keeps things quiet. Check the mounting on the pump you have. You want the pump to be resting in a bed of rubber, no metal to metal contact with the body. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1988,f-150,5.0l+302cid+v8,1121780,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=383109&cc=1121780&pt=6256&jsn=986 https://www.amazon.com/Airtex-E8312-Electric-Fuel-Pump/dp/B000DT7Y7K/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=e8312&qid=1638982867&s=automotive&sr=1-4

They sell the labels new I am assuming you mean the key code label but they sell others also https://www.zeddsaver.com/products/copy-of-datsun-240z-260z-280z-rear-hinges