Leaderboard

Currently have an AFM gauge wired in, sitting atop my steering column shroud, with the sensor installed in the correct position in my downpipe. It's not super precise, but did give me a way to dial in the needle profile I'm currently running (TF). Will also give me a basis to compare the SUs I'm currently running and the triples.

I own, and use, both a soda blaster and a larger version of the ultrasonic cleaner pictured above (both inexpensive Harbor Freight products), on Z aluminum castings (carb bodies and fuel pumps). Both work well, but one thing I learned is there are two versions of Simple Green, one green and one purple (both available at Home Depot). The green one will etch/dull the castings, with soda blasting the best way to counteract the effects. The purple Simple Green product says right on the container it will not etch aluminum, and I've found it works quite well when diluted 5 parts water to 1 part Simple Green/Purple.

I'll let my imagination run wild on the interior condition, and frame rails. But in the current market, it probably doesnt matter for 5K

In case you might be interested, here is how I plan to make a rolling support frame for my shell using Unistrut. I'm using the same mounting points as you did. Hopefully I will be assembling it in a couple of weeks. Thanks for the inspiration, I will be posting the end result in my own resto thread.

So you're saying that without the fans it overheats, with the fans it reaches thermostat temperature. Doesn't that mean you should put a 180 thermostat back in and leave the fans on? Do you still have the radiator shroud installed? No offense, but the factory setup should work just fine with your engine. The situation seems overly complicated. Things aren't making sense.

Are you using a thermostat? Sounds like you either don't have a thermostat or it's stuck open.

My son learned this the hard way on a 455 cu.in. that ran hot in an old Olds. He installed 2 puller fans and 1 pusher, but the alternator couldn't keep up, so he installed a larger alternator, but that overloads the single v-belt drive. He had also been contemplating an electric water pump, but now understands that the electricity isn't 'free'.

There is 5 bolts when adjusting the hood . 3 to bolt hinge to chassis . 2 bolts hood to hinge

Hi, Not the ideal spot to put the sensor, better would be just on the radiator itself.. As the fans are getting power with relays you can use a simple sensor to activate the relays. Personally i'm not a fan of electric cooling.. the original cooling fan uses (a lot) direct mechanical energy, yes, but the electric ones use a LOT of electric energy that our s30 cars are not made for the electric energy needed is not calculated in the power of the circuitry A good mechanical temp clutch fan is the better / most reliable solution. (also clean and no wires and other electric parts needed)

I had the same problem. Except every time I pushed down on the hinge while tightening, then removed the weight, it would come back up. Finally, I was able to loosen the hinge and tie a dumbbell to it with a tie strap (60 lbs). That allowed it to be held down while i tightened it back up. The hood (mid '70 car) has holes in the front. I was able to put a strap in that too and tie a dumbbell to it. Believe it or not, it worked. In my case, I needed to be careful that the hook on the strap didn't put a dent in the sheet metal of the hood.

I'd stay away from tumblers because aggressive media can round off screw threads and sharp edges of the component. I really like my ultrasonic cleaner. The one I purchased is large enough to easily clean the body of an SU carburetor and make quick work of years of grease and crud build-up. I'll make a solution of 1 part Simple Green to 4 parts water and put it in a clear plastic zipper loc bag, along with my parts. Next I'll put it in the cleaner and fill the of the tank with plain water. It also works great to keep jewelry nice and shiny. It has paid for itself is time saved in labor.

I think a wide band would be mandatory for the swap

Frankly, I was surprised at the torque number as well. The first pull was a little lower, at 218.2lbs, but still pretty stout given my engine specs. Patcon, agree the triples look great and they sound awesome sucking in all the extra air. May have to try them and see where I'm at. The switchover doesn't take that long unless I scrub the linkage and substitute a throttle cable.

Nissan did a disservice to all of the S30's by running high amperage current for the headlights/taillights and turnsignals thru the fuse block and then on to the respective switches. As the contacts in the switches became burned, resistance increased and backed up to fuse block resulting in damaged fuse contacts and melted wires. The recommendations above to use lower amperage bulbs and get all the damaged wiring repaired are spot on. And yes... you don't just want to plug in a new fuse block without cleaning up the issues. With all that said and done, you'll still be running the primary current thru the fuse block and switches - just less of it. I strongly recommend you invest in Dave Irwin's excellent relay kits for the headlights and turnsignals. Feeding the clean power directly from the battery to the lights will make a huge improvement in lighting quality and remove these high amperage current flows from your dash area. Just my $0.02 worth - if that much! https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/

You may also have to remove the grill to get at those 3 bolts holding the hinge mount to the body, a second person is a real help with this adjustment, have them push the left side down even if it goes down father than you want it to, don't worry it will spring back up once those 3 bolts are tightened.

I love the look of triples and I have a set I may run. But Im not sure they add a whole lot over SUs other than lower fuel economy

I like the simplicity and driveability of the SUs. Weber's would be fun to fool around with but I'd want a Dyno to check the tuning of them.

How many times have we heard “the power is in the head”. Still true. Cam, lift, porting. Make’r flow like a hurricane!

Recently i ran into a NOS lot for sale again. Turns out a still active Nissan dealership in germany is cleaning out his parts warehouse and wanted to get rid of all the old parts without any stock movement. Well, i signed up for the whole package and got the deal. It were not exactly many parts, but some really nice scores and some parts are not very common to find NOS. I checked the partnumbers beforehand and all of them are definitely S30 parts. but not all might be correct for my 240Z. Nevertheless, i got a good package deal, so i took all of them. The first one is an exchaust front pipe. It has a few scratches from storage, bot otherwise completely NOS with the factory sticker still there: Then an original L-series Oil pan. in excellent shape (Except it needs a bit of dedusting) Front lower control arm. I think the Partno. was listed for the 260Z, but i couldn't see any difference on the first glimpse. i'll have to re-check: These are pretty cool: NOS rear bumper mounting brackets: A set of genuine Akebono rear drum brake shoes: And a set of genuine rear strut inserts (replacement units):