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The tires are mounted on the wheels, and the wheels are on the car with the lugs torqued. I got the cooling system back together, filled, and burped. (Yes, I remembered to run the heater to get the air out.) The oil pressure looked good when I ran the engine to burp the cooling system. I'll leave the oil as is for the test run, but I'll be changing it soon. The fuel gauge doesn't budge, but I'm guessing that I need to replace the sending unit. I need to double check to make sure I didn't knock a wire loose on the sender when I was messing around with bypassing the electric fuel pump. I checked the turn signals again today. They didn't want to flash with the LEDs, but I tracked down an electronic flasher, and all was good again. Tomorrow I'll put on the registration sticker and get the paperwork in the car. I might even test it tomorrow.

Hope you don’t mind a post and a pic inspired by you others here. Tried the drill method out on some headlight screws. Wire wheeled them then chucked them up. Used 120, 220, 400, then steel wool. Both were very similar looking before. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I couldn't wait, even with the heat of the day pounding down on me. I had to do the test drive. I cleared out a path to back out of the garage, buttoned up the car, and set up the camera. This would be the first time since April 2010 that the car has moved under its own power. I backed it out of the garage and started recording. With a stock engine and suspension, it feels so different from the modified 260Z. I started down the road and noticed that the steering wheel is pointed toward 2 o'clock. I'll fix that tomorrow. There was also quite a tick from the valvetrain. I'll check the valve lash tomorrow, as well. You can hear it in the video when I pull back into the garage. The drive was uneventful. I just went down the road a couple of miles and drove it back home. It came up to temperature nicely, and the oil pressure was good. Of course, this description is no measure of my satisfaction of getting the car back on the road. Tomorrow I plan on washing the car, vacuuming out the interior, and tackling the tasks mentioned earlier. If I get done soon enough, I may also change the oil. It's been a few years since I last did that on this car. Then I have fix the gas gauge. Otherwise, I've VERY happy with where I am with this car.

Great progress today on engine bay prep. Here’s the drivers side frame rail before...in between...and after. I used Eastwood’s 2k epoxy primer (thanks for the tip Jim) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This was a rattle can from a company you can buy auto quality paint with perfect color match. I’m very impressed with both the quality and the perfect color match. It’s a two part system. One can of base coat and one can of clear. I did 3 coats of base paint and 3 coats of clean. https://www.automotivetouchup.com Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The spline size won’t change. The diameter of the cog is directly proportional to the spin rate. Someone please chime in If I’m off base here.

View Advert OEM headlight covers s30 Nissan Datsun 240z 260z 280z OEM headlight covers. Don't often see these for sale.... Used, read and look at the photos. These are my spare pair. Overall condition is very good considering their age and use. But not perfect. They are a mixed pair, see further on. I am going to be picky here so you are fully aware, but I would certainly use if I didn't have a pair on my S30 (one of which was new- so who wouldn't use that on their Z). The right metal trim is stainless steel, whilst the left is chromed steel. Can't tell unless you put a magnet on. The chrome on the steel one is very good, no rust showing, but the chrome is thin, you can see the brush marks below. Otherwise, in excellent condition. As it is a mixed pair, the Perspex on the left is a little awkward to get to fit, a little tight but not under tension, but does fit. The fixing holes don't quite line up fully, but there is enough room for a fixing screw to go through. Both Perspex covers are good, it has a few light swirl scratches (due to cleaning), BUT nothing to be concerned about. There is a little damage around a couple of the fixing holes, due to previous owners tightening down to hard. Most is hidden under the trim. See photos. No fixing kit with these, I would use something like rivnuts. There is an old rubber seal, but I would use as I did, some closed cell foam to stick around the Perspex to seal it to the body. Yes, there is evidence of old adhesive on the Perspex from the original glue/seal, but its very minor. (and you are going to cover it with a new seal....) I had these advertised on Ebay.co.uk, but didn't quite reach reserve, so trying further afield. I will consider offers if they aren't insulting. Shipping to USA, tracked and signed for with more towards the value at about $48. Drop me a line... Advertiser RIP260Z Date 08/28/2021 Price $480 Category Parts for Sale

Latest update to the car is a new rear seat. In our classic racing the goal is to have the car look as close to how it came out in the factory as possible. Though rear seats are removed to fit roll cages, a lot of the racers are adding fake rear pads to make it look nicer. I did not like the look of the fake pads so thanks to Clarke (fellow 240k owner) he swapped me an original rear seat backrest. But when we opened it up to modify it to fit it the foam was a bit too crusty and the frame was a bit rusty at the edges. Bit mouldy and yuck and the vinyl was not really strong enough. Bit rusty at the edges, in fact some had rusted away and was missing. So Dale (Mechanic - Coastline Automotive) went to work on modifying it to remove the rust, reinforce it and make it fit around the roll cage. To fit it to car required the rear window to be removed (we got in a windscreen specialist to do this) which allowed Dale the opportunity to tidy up the headlining, fix some of the rear interior panels and remount the rear arm rest that was only held on by one screw. Also the rear windscreen had overspray on it so it got a good clean. Skilled job to remove it and clean it and then later refit it without breaking it. I do have a spare front windscreen (thanks Don) but not a rear screen. So I was insistent that it did not get broken . Also wanted to keep the original AA sticker in the corner. Modifying the wire frame took a bit of work The Test fitting it to make sure it cleared the bottom roll cage bars The off to the powder coaters so it would last Then off to the upholsters for recovering. We tried a new guy this time Luxxis Upholstery in Tauriko, Tauranga - he did a nice job - the only mistake was he did it in leather not vinyl. But it still looked alright and I did not have the heart to make to him do it again to get it right. We also put in some covering on the back parcel tray to finish it off Windscreen back in Hard to get photos of the finished results - but here goes and I thing it looks great Damn - just realized I forgot to post update on the new fuel system - so might need to do that next.

Same reason, you can have air in the master cylinder that gets 'stuck' in there rather than passing into the lines and ultimately to the corners of the car. I ran into this with in replaced all my brake components a few months back. After bleeding the master cylinder I was able to get enough pressure to then bleed the corners and all was good.

Make sure you can bleed the brakes before you say that.

Looks Great John..

The nice thing about living together with my woman, as opposed to getting married is that she has her income, and I have mine. We cover our joint expenses together, then do as we wish with what is leftover. We agreed 25 years ago when we entered into this partnership that we would do it this way, because the number one thing couples fight over is money. It must be working, as it has been 25 years and we have never argued about money or expenses. Other things that we have disagreed about have always been trivial, and we wonder if the choice we have made about our financial situation has something to do with it.

Center gauge restoration complete. Each gauge was stripped down, cleaned, repaired as needed, and painted before reassembly. The dash frame was also completely stripped down and prepped for reassembly.

Just make sure the food you bring will fit in a microwave. I have plenty of room for the beer. If needed I'll throw all the fridge crap in the trash to fit more.