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Well this is going to be a slower process then anticipated. My spool gun is giving me fits and has forced me to actually learn how to TIG . I guess no time like the present to teach an old dog a new trick . I have played around with TIG, but I’m a rookie for sure . With a bad back I couldn’t refill my CO2 tank and the Argon tank was about full, so.... Almost have the first legs of the exhaust to the cat done ,which was going to be the hard part . I think I gained about an inch in ground clearance or maybe more . Got to get this right , because this will be the last time

The only thing the shape of the float submerged matters much. I would theorize that you want the tapered nose because it would more gradually slope the pressure on the valve up and also not allow any trapped bubbles stuck under the float. But other than stuff like that, I can't see it mattering much. The problem is, as you mentioned, denser fuel will cause the float to sit higher. A higher float causes the valve to close sooner, and a valve that closes sooner results in a lower level in the bowl. And the issue is that I've had troubles getting the level high enough without the float actually hitting the underside of the lid. You remember this discussion you and I had almost ten years ago? I think this was all related to this same issue: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/43889-fuel-bowl-level-and-bending-tab-not-working/

Normal vacuum at idle will pull oil into the combustion chamber due to a compromised valve stem seal. At higher revs, it tends to seal a bit better, or a bit more.

Not a single picture of the nose mount on the diff showing the condition of the rubber. I would take a look there, use a pry bar and see if there is any play. Those mounts tear somtimes, and that might be the clunking you are hearing. Also check the u joints on the driveshaft and half shafts.

Fix it again tony

That once was called an "Italian Tune Up".

Heck, I didn't need to do much of a search to find him. 😉 It is *ahem* interesting to go through his feed. By the way, the marriage didn't last...

I've always called it loading up. Fuel/oil gets by idling but burns off at higher rpm. Boats are bad about doing that.

The simple answer is, one of the valve seals (I'd guess the intake valve seal) #4 cylinder is leaking. The surface of the seal that rides on the valve stem is damaged, probably during installation. That allows oil to run down the valve stem and get sucked (intake valve) into that cylinder.

Yeah I have a friend who could do that but hard part is going to be getting the vin

I beat you by about 10 years. Can't say enough good about Steve, he's one of those guys.

Unplugging the TVS would tell the computer that the engine is not at idle. That is all. This causes certain things to happen. I'm not sure exactly what happens but the dramatic effect that you see suggests that your TVS is short-circuited or the wiring harness is, showing the engine at idle all the time when it is plugged in.

Gotcha. And if you're running a closed loop system that uses lamdas, you should be able to control the mix good enough that you don't light the cat on fire. Good luck with the TIG. Run pure Argon. I wish I was better with mine, but I'm sure some of the faults are my own... I don't use a dedicated grinder for my electrodes (which is a no-no), and I don't have high-freq start, so I assume that my tips are contaminated before I really even get started. Sometimes it turns out good, and sometimes it doesn't. I'm no welder.

I’m hoping they have it, they sold them back in the day now they are a bmw/jag dealer but same ownership or atleast family. I worked at a dealer I know they kept paperwork but for 50 years? I also don’t want him knowing I’m doing this just incase I find the car and it’s on bring a trailer for 70k lol alittle out of my zone, I’m hoping best case it’s a survivor or in moderate shape so maybe we can fix it up alittle I’m sure he’d enjoy that more than it being pristine

One of yesterday's photos...

So theres no other way out other than changing the seals?

If all the plugs look like #6, except #4, you've already got the evidence. More idling or high traffic driving will continue to darken #4 until it fouls.

Link to video https://youtube.com/shorts/APnCTX-bYjU?feature=share

At some point it becomes an obsession. I have 14 Z cars, 13 S30s covering all three series from 70 to 78, and a 79 280ZX. It started with the race car. Then the brown 72 for Mrs. Racer 1.0. Then someone offered a non running Z for cheap, I offered to haul it off for free if they had a title. Before I know it, the area behind the shop is littered with these things. Mrs. Racer 2.0 is tolerant but secretly wants most of them gone, especially since the values have gone up so much. I’ve decided it is time to thin the herd.

Not sneaking, I told him I’m interested in the car story and would like to know where it’s at since he always talks about it so he wouldn’t have an issue giving info but I’m sure he’s not going to go head over heels to just know where it’s at since all he expects is just what it’s doing vs what I’m actually trying to do. If it gets to a point where we aren’t getting anywhere that’s when I’ll really dig deep on service shops it’s been to and stuff