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Well I bought this yesterday. A 1980 in original paint with mint wheels 74,000 miles last on the road in 2012. Very nice interior with some minor needs. The car appears to have been loved and garaged it's whole life. I can't be sure but I think it was under coated at the dealer. Pin stripes and anniversary decals are still very nice. A few door dings, scratches, and minor paint chips.

I got my second yesterday. On the drive back home I could hear Bill Gates in my head every time I drove past a cell tower. It's awesome. Anyone know how long do you have to wait before the tracking device is activated? Is there anything I need to do, or is it activated remotely by someone else?

Nope. I was directing him to one of our local club members who knows these Anniversary editions extremely well and who was ready to answer any questions the OP might have.

Otherwise. unfortunately she had a fall and got a bilateral ankle fracture they're about to operate at 4pm. Sitting here now. She's in good spirits and the Doc says this is fairly routine in older bones that get a good hit as in falling. She'll be fine. Thanks for asking. No, no I'm feeling good. Temps good too. They check it before entry at the hospital. I have 10G service now. It's awesome! Oh yeah I'm out there! You know me, I'm way out there.

Some 'along the way' pics of the floor pan op. No sense of chronology, of course.

@Patcon @Namerow all great ideas, I wish I could get stuck into it already! my damage is as follows, lines indicate crumpled metal. Arrow indicates direction I need to pull which is why a pulling frame may be the way to go. I do also have provisions to build a frame that bolts into the sway bar mounts but this frame will only be 25mm or 1 inch tubing, but would still bring the force forward. yes I will be removing the doubler panel as you call it, namerow you are correct in saying it is the weak point and if you look at my photos you’ll see mine was folded where that dimple sits. I will be cutting and replacing that damaged section with the clean front cut I have.

Both the window net and the air scoop from that BSR 280 CP race car now reside on my 240Z race car. Neither make me as fast or as good looking as PLN.

Getting ready to source a set of carb's for my neighbors series 1 restoration. Motor is rebuilt & car almost ready to be dropped in. No carb's came with the car. The options are : buy a set of 4 screw carbs and send them off to be rebuilt. Or.... buy this new set from Round Top Fuel Systems. https://roundtopsfuelsystems.com/new-products/original-round-top-carburetor-set The cost is close to the same, say $200 for the core carbs plus about $750 with shipping for the rebuilts vs $980 for the new Round Top Su's. What say you? The Z Therapy route is a well known proven product. Has anyone here purchased the Round Top Fuel Systems carbs? I am leaning toward the new ones...

I think I would lean towards the new carbs. They look to have had some more refinement. The domes will have zero wear which rebuilt won't. Choke mechanism looks to have been updated. Warranty would be a good question

The intake manifolds & balance tube are refurbed and now on the new motor. Missing is the linkage and carbs. He is keeping as close to original, stock condition as possible, there is no intention to ever sell the car, it will just become part of his estate. Hence the decision on the carbs.

Not sure that's going to work. The virus hits older folks harder than younger folks and the older folks have already had their kids. I'm no expert on the subject, but it seems to me that you don't change the gene pool by plucking out the folks who are no longer contributing to it.

The motor is on hold for the time being until I get the rest of the parts from the machine shop. Decided to go with a replacement head since a good one became available. Thanks @madkaw Got some work done on the replacement floor pans. Decided to remove the driver's side hump in the tunnel. I still have to make and weld in new sections for the reinforced rear corners, but it's mostly down to blending the welds, a little flattening, and then get the floor supports in.

I think I found the stupid shimmy in the steering wheel after a LONG time looking for the source. Stupid driver side nuts never sat flush. I think there was always play between the wheel and hub. I even had replacement studs in my parts bin. jeeeeeeeeeez

I've begun to test my vaccination, hard. Went to a family members birthday party Saturday. 50 plus people of all ages that were hugging and shaking hands. Went to see my Mom for the 3rd time today since Saturday a.m at the hospital. If I quit posting you'll know the Moderna is no good.

I'd submerge it in CLR for a couple of days. It does wonders on gas tank sending units.

Also this repair would be easier if you remove the doubler plate so you are not fighting the boxed section. You could remove the whole thing or just cut it far enough back to be past the damage. Then remove that portion. Then you can dolly both pieces inside and out. Weld back in with a butt seam and smooth them out. Also like Namerow suggested you could hold the car down closer to the front to reduce the stress on the frame rail. You could go on Ebay and order some frame clamps. I have an assortment that I use with come-alongs or chain binders for lighter damage work

Further to Patcon's suggestion, you could also consider sliding a next-side-up extension tube over the end of the longitudinal floor runner of your frame rig and then using that as a reaction structure (i.e. put the bottle jack between the extension piece and the lever arm). Depends on how long the existing frame 'stub' is. I don't think I'd try this unless that stub is at least 18" long (which your pictures suggest to be the case). The reaction load (which would be tension, not compression) would be taken out of the vehicle structure through the front-most support point of your frame rig. Right now, I believe that is at either the front crossmember location -- which is a good distance back from the rad bulkhead. I'd like to see the reaction load being taken up further forward. Maybe you could rig up a chain, looped over the lower part of the rad bulkhead and then anchored to the top of the new extension tube by way of a couple of (sturdy) welded-on eye-bolts. Include turnbuckles in the two chain drops so that you can pre-tension the chain. While considering how this 'adjustment' might take, it may help to stare at the following two pictures for a few minutes while asking yourself, 'What panels deformed during the collision event?' and then, 'How can I un-do that deformation?'. The panel's main strength in the vertical bending plane comes from that long doubler panel (which has been removed by the owner in the top picture). It works with the main stamping to form a box section (which is sometimes referred to as the upper frame horn). However, notice how that box section is weakened near the front by the big hole punched in the main panel to form the fresh air inlet for the car's cabin ventilation system. I suspect that that's where the deformation happens in a front-end collision. In fact, in the lower picture it almost looks like the outer wall of the doubler plate has been kinked. For reference, I've added a third picture showing a pair of virgin OE doubler plates.

What do you mean: an African or European driveshaft?

"Well you have to know these things when you're a king, you know."

I don't know about the 240's but on the 260's and 280's I've never seen anything (factory) mounted in that spot.* I've theorized the possibility that they were considering putting power windows in and (again theorized) that is where they were going to put the switches. That is my theory which is mine and it belongs to me. * Of course that does not mean it never happened. It just means I've never seen anything.

My shock and nut are on their way to Koni USA now as requested by Koni and MSA