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How's this,

Right. But unless they remove material from the block side of the journal, you aren't guaranteeing concentricity. And if you DO remove material from the block side of the journal, you'll raise the piston's stroke location in the cylinder. Bottom line for me... I'm not in the outback.

Oh, I think it could be reswaged. A flat end screwdriver and a hammer or may a contraption in the bench vise, something... It'sbroke now, so nowhere but up 😉

The, what we call grandaddy, long legged spiders don't make the silk like nest that most other spiders make. Just an fyi from the southern US.

Hey Ryan, best I can measure that's correct. Cheers

Thank you for all the advice. I came up with yet another way to get the measurement for the snubber. I installed the RT mount without the snubber in place, then I installed the diff with the mustache bar and front mounting member to the car. The area where you need to measure is very hard to get to if you are working on jack stands. You can't see the area clear enough to get a straight on measurement. So from the right wheel well I was able to take a two inch nail and drop it through the hole where the snubber mounts, resting the nail on top of the diff where the snubber will eventually touch. Then with a sharpie I was able to strike a line on the nail where it came through the RT mount. That gave me a very accurate distance between the top of the diff and the RT mount. Am I missing anything?? I have not permanently installed the mount yet, so I will report back. E

Hahaha a while, maybe 6-8 months? they’re daddy long legs so not very scary. The only scary spiders in oz are the funnel webs (big and poisonous but only on the east side of oz ) and the white tails (flesh eating venom). But bites are very rare. The red backs can make adults sick and can kill very small children. Again very rare to be bitten. snakes are a risk where my car is stored as it’s on a big bit of land. Mostly dugites which are quite venomous and can be aggressive. I’m yet to see one but my dad has killed a few. but I’d much rather face those than a grizzly or mountain lion lol! When I was in Yosemite hiking I was terrified of seeing a bear!

I use one of these .... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Top-Dead-Center-TDC-tool-Timing-Gauge-14-mm-thread-high-quality-in-best-price-/201984173362?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286 For a stock engine with dished pistons and no head shave you may have to make a new longer rod for the end of it - I can’t be sure but good to be aware of it. Not sure about your carbs but my choke cables not only move the jets down but they have a slight effect on the butterflies. You seem to be experiencing a lot of strange issues, so the idea is to remove anything that is potentially contributing, until you get to normal idle! Then connecting things back to how they should be “one at a time” and testing at each stage. That way if the revs rise when you put back, say the choke cables, you know it’s them to blame / sort out. With these things it’s often just the simplest thing that you eventually discover, keep at it, you will find the culprit!

I need one of the common caps. I have the middle cap and rear cap. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't think I can re-swage something that's already been swaged... The metal looks thick, almost like a casting, probably swaged at the factory using some industrial press. Surprised to find no hits on this when I searched... I can't be the only Z owner with this issue, can I? Yep; already bought that... It's waiting to go in, but first I have to get the cable situation sorted.

Would they need my car or just the carpets? What about shipping? I have ACC 30 minutes from me so I'm a little prejudiced.

Let us know if it works good. That's cheap to me and all the stress I went through to get true TDC. I'm no mechanic.

Thanks again mike! See, bloody legend! Now you’re not parked on a hill are you..... 😂

Here, when they line bore, they shave all of the caps. Torque them down and rebore all the way through for a concentric std bore

Well I'm not sure what everyone here is talking about when they suggest line-boring, but where I come from, it would mean putting all the caps into place at spec torque, and then running a cutter through to remove material thereby making sure all the journals all perfectly in-line and the same size. But my question is... What then? You'll need larger bearings with more meat on the outside to make up for the material you took off. You got a source for that? You can get "oversized bearings" with more meat on them on the INSIDE for when the crank is ground, but to find bearings with more meat on the OUTSIDE that were designed to fit into a larger block bore? I mean... I've never looked. Is that a thing?

Personally, I hope you stay and continue to post.