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Any headers part-welded onto the flange have been so done to keep costs down. If you have the opportunity to buy headers with matching ports do so. A 6-1 will work, a 6-2 will work better*.....better still with longer twin secondary pipes joining to 1x at the rear of the gearbox and not before the firewall. All said, of the least expensive headers on the market - the coated MSA 6-2 is the best value : https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic19d/15-6001CH Please note that its' 1.5" primary pipes have a much smaller inner diameter than other after-market headers although plenty big enough for a stock or near stock street engine. *for a street engine, what one needs to release is torque, not top-end power. A 6-2 will do this best and torque is what we use for each gear change and acceleration ; ask yourself how frequently you max out the revs to obtain max power ?

I'm in undercoat scraping purgatory at the moment and probably for the next week.

I don't think Think[box] at Case Univ. will charge me for the time so it's $22 for the tap (cheap Aliexpress import) and around $66 for a 1-foot 4140 Alloy Steel Hex Bar. So around $88 for the first one : ( Or, if I can get them to make me at least 4, $22 each. Why, do you want to buy one for $22 (assuming I get an extra 3)? If so, I'll PM you after I get them back in a few weeks. I'll likely post a few in the classified at cost.

I may as well have left the 4 speed in mine. I never use #5. 😇

There's still a lot of folks that place a value on originality.

I’m working all weekend at The Big Shed, so, no Saturday night for me this weekend.

I am finally uncovered from 4” of snow here in north TX. Been an absolute roller coaster for us southerners more accustomed to 105 F temps, not -5 F. Hopefully late spring/early summer I will have the Z road worthy. Been itching to get back to car shows and sync up with other Z folks in person. Also debating on making the hike to ZCON this year with the Z.

Man, I know I keep commenting on this build, but you need to sell passes to the club members like a Disney ride to come see this thing when you're done. Thanks so much, this keeps me motivated on my 73 build.

Few updates on the Z. Tonight’s progress includes mounting the rebuilt pedal box assembly, brake booster, master cylinders, and last of the hard lines.

Welcome anytime. Right now I am using the holes previously drilled into the firewall for the AC lines. I’m using the same evaporator that came out of the car, since whoever installed this system previously did a good job routing the lines. Of course, the lines that came in the kit I bought are too short, but you can get an idea for how they’ll look once installed. I’ll add edge trim on some of the battery tray flanges prevent rubbing too.

I don't think you're being controversial at all, the general consensus among tire manufacturers for age out is 6 years. Sure you can say that the manufacturers use that number out of an abundance of caution and the desire to make more tire sales and that may be true to a certain extent. I'm as stingy as the next guy but I don't cheap out on tires because those 4 little patches of rubber are the only thing that keep you on the road. Brakes don't stop the car, tires do. Traction control, ABS all the rest of those helpers are worthless without 4 fresh contact patches. I can't remember where I saw it but about 15 yrs ago I read an report on how many collisions and fatalities are tire related, worn out, under inflated and old, it was a large percentage. That's when I became a bit of a zealot and don't even get me started on 4 season tires.

I totally get that and it’s very true. However even in the dry they had started to wheel spin out of junctions and feel vague. No other car in front or behind me travelling at the same gentle pace let go / understeered etc at that time. Either way tyres do go off over time and frankly they (and brakes) are keeping you safe and on the road. Relative to how much money we spend on our cars to keep them shiny, I just look at it as a cheap insurance policy not worth skimping on. They basically oxidise over time and go hard. Here’s a good article ... https://www.thetelegram.com/wheels/have-your-tires-reached-their-expiration-date-255224/

Your guy has serious skills, recreating by hand what came from a stamped press is no small feat. Also very impressed with the dash and console, I don't think I have ever seen the leather covered look done well on a 240z before, the workmanship on yours is remarkable. The fit for the speedo and tach is very tight on an original dash, hope he left some allowance for that.