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None of the MK63 calipers are "Z-specific". They were specified as Sports & Race Option many Nissan models of the late 60s through late 70s period, and in both vented and solid rotor variants. The '20S' suffix corresponds with the width of the vented rotor used on the (wide) vented rotor type caliper. From Nissan factory documentation:

Just to add to ZH's excellent advice, if you rub your fingers around the base of the spindle where the inner bearing sits it should be completely smooth, no irregularities. If there is remove them by lightly using a fine single cut file. Also, all that grease that is outside of the dust shield needs to be cleaned off or it might contaminate the rotor and pads.

It's a hand press fit but it's still a very close fit. A gouge might be enough to screw things up. Might be that you just have a + size spindle and/or a - tolerance bearing. A little work with a scotch brite pad might be enough to size it down. Good luck. Welcome, as others have said, to old car world.

Gotta say my wife and I had a close call. We both got covid a month and a half ago, she is 35, I am 31. Hers wasn't too bad though she still is short of breath. I had to go to the hospital for four days as it was getting worse; I got weaker, fever wouldnt leave, and breathing was getting tougher. The doctors put me on remdisiver, an blood clot thinner, and steroids. I started feeling better almost immediately. I ate my first meal in over a week the very next day. My fever left and 4 days later I was home. It still took 2 weeks before we could go back to work. I am still short of breath though lung capacity is growing and I am slowly regaining strength. My wife is still very short of breath so pray for her. God has brought us this far, he'll see us the rest of the way. Blessed be his name.

Another Canadian 510 swap: VG30 six in this one. Can't recall if it had a turbo. Sleeper. He also had HLS30-00048 🙂

Some guys put V8's in these things The KA24DE is a sweet little engine, 2.4L 155hp, 160lbft torque, of course it's not going to sound as nice as an L24. The engine I'm using is basically stock but with some port&polish on the head. The 510 is only about 2100lbs so it will be fun car to drive and at least keep up with Hwy traffic.

Yeah, I know you're stressed and not feeling your best. I hope you can get some sleep. You were simply trying your best to help, and regardless of which end of the car you were on, the fact that you were trying counts big!

Yeah, everything about that car says 280 except for the bumpers and the steering wheel. Engine compartment, dash, door panels, rear panel, shift knob, voltmeter... Everything. Does the VIN work out to a 72? And regardless.... Are you friken' kidding me? They ought to be embarrassed to drag that across their floor for the pics. It must have left a pile of parts behind when they drug it back out!

If you have aligned yourself with the 'heat' idea, I recommend putting the piston in an oven at low-ish heat rather than the flame treatment. Given your location, I think that Z-Therapy might be a bit more charitable with help than might be the case if you lived in the USA. It never hurts to ask, considering the fact that they're experts and the rest of us are just 'helpful'.

Thanks for that info, that pump was on my list to try. I'm sure Capt. O will wait to hear it on my car :)

You should never need to use force to assemble wheel bearings. Take it all apart, clean everything up. Inspect the spindle where the bearings slide on, and if there are any burrs, clean them up with a strip of emery cloth. Then see if the new bearings will slide into place. Also, measure the ID of the bearings, and the OD of the spindle. You should have a couple thousandths of an inch of clearance. Once you get it sorted out, and things are slipping together properly, grease the bearings (also, don’t pack the journals full of grease, it isn’t needed and wastes grease), drop the inner bearing into the hub, install the dust seal, slide the hub and bearing onto the spindle, then insert the outer bearing, washer and nut. Tighten the nut by hand, while spinning the hub. When you get it as snug as you can by hand, then use a socket, and a 3/8” drive ratchet to set the bearings while again rotating the hub. I believe the service manual specifies a torque, but I usually snug by feel, then back the nut to the first point the nut lines up with the cotter key hole, then insert the key, and replace the dust cap. There should be a very small amount of free play.

I have too much blood in my alcohol system. 🙂

I didn't even read the words and numbers I just looked at the pictures and thought it was a 76 280Z with 240Z bumpers. The engine bay looks just like mine. And it has two fusible link covers, I think 75 only had one. But it does have the more primitive center console. Mine had/has the padded upholstered hinged lid. The Beverly Hills guys don't put much effort in to getting their cars sold. They should know what people want to know but they don't show it.

The rear quarter panels came in today! This is the shop that did the work, http://www.alfaparts.net/ very pleased.

How did you break a "bearing" (what actually broke?) by torqueing down the spindle nut? You should be able to put everything together by hand, almost to the point of even setting the nut if you have strong fingers. No need for force, except for removing the races from the hub. To grannyknot's point, if you use the outer race that came with the bearing you could just put it back the way you took it apart, on the inboard side, then use the new matched bearing and race on the nut side. But you don't want to use a different outer race with a new bearing. Sometimes parts just don't fit. I had to chisel a new pilot bushing out of my crankshaft after I got it halfway inserted. It was just too big. The replacement fit just fine.

You can't use an old bearing with a new race, well, you can but the bearing will fail quickly. They won't match.

Timken LM67010 is the part no. Cleaned the grease off, and as far as I could tell, everything was intact. The only thing of note were a few small gashes I imagine were made by a screwdriver when I had to pry off the bearing.

Any part numbers on the bearings? Should be stamped on the edge of the race. Those bearings are very common. No need to go to a specialty shop like ZCD. OReilly Auto is fine, then you can swap them out easily if they don't fit, even if they're greasy. Too late now, I just mention that to make you feel bad. 💀 That bearing inner race should slide easily down to its seat at the base of that spindle (proper word for it). Clean the grease off and look for a burr or lip on the spindle. The bearing really should be just a hand press fit, no hammering/tapping or force required at all. Nobody checks the fit before they install the bearings and the seal but we all should. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/national-2929/wheel-bearings-hub-assy-seals-25107/bearings-and-seals-25072/wheel-bearing-12839/5426c6f5d17c/national-tapered-bearing-set/a2/2552840/1974/nissan/260z?q=wheel+bearing&pos=3 https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/national-2929/wheel-bearings-hub-assy-seals-25107/bearings-and-seals-25072/wheel-bearing-12839/5426c6f5d17c/national-tapered-bearing-set/a6/2552881/1974/nissan/260z?q=wheel+bearing&pos=4

Muchas gracias, amigo.

I agree. The bowls should be the same with the confession that I've never had a reason or felt the urge to remove the float bowls from the carb bodies.

You want to see if the diaphragm inside the vacuum advance canister has a hole in it. You can suck on the hose nipple to be sure. Also, it's not a bad idea to remove the cap and make sure the vacuum advance is free to move. They tend to get rusted bearings and lock up.

Vehicle Submitted Thanks for submitting your vehicle to BaT Auctions. The team will take a look at your submission and should be in touch within 24 hours. The "team" needs your money. To hell with standards.

Two different publications, both factory Competition Preparation manuals for models that are not S30-series Zs.

Poor thing!) Several such things stuck to my cat and for a long time he could not understand what was happening to him, and then he began to run like a mad cat. Now he doesn't come close to such things)

One thing to note about the inertia switch I linked: in the reviews, people note that you need to move a wire from the normally open to the normally closed contact. It is not difficult to do. I have done it to one of these that I purchased.

I have a guesstimate of what the 20S is, but I am know doubt wrong, so I will shut up....but on the cutting of the backing plates, I followed Jerry's pictures, then mocked up my backing plates and calipers to make a template (off the car). I haven't cut them yet, got side tracked. I could be wrong here, but the MK63 was on quite a few models on Nissans (Prince's?) before the S30 came out, so could it be classed as a "generic" part, which just so happened bolted on, and/or Nissan made provision at design stage? Interested what Alan has to say.

Hi. It's already been done by a client. The only hurdle is to extend the 2-1 collector back to join with my line which begins with the reasonator at the rear of the gearbox. I would reccomend lengthening the twin pipes to finish as far back as possible and I will supply you, free, with an extra V-band kit so as to make a gas-tight fit or it might be possible to use one half of my new down-pipe kit (which'll be available in late March). I'll have exhaust lines back in stock at end of January....Covid affects us all with delays at each level ; everyone talks of GNPs but I wonder if the worlds' economy hasn't shrunk since March ! Kind regards, Sean

I guess that’s why everyone’s afraid to buy one with a sunroof.

Honestly? I don't want to have to look at those pics again to figure any of that out for sure!

LOL. Actually I'm going to wait to NOT hear it on your car. Duh.

I'm suppose to get my 2 rear quarters tomorrow, I'm pumped, we also have a bit of a snow storm coming in so who knows. I have been splicing the 510 and 240sx wiring harnesses together for a while now, I'm going to try and get the entire wiring system working properly first before I tear it down for body work. I made the top of the rad support removable which is a big help pulling and installing the engine/trans. The drive shaft came back from the shop last week after being shortened so that's the entire drive line working now. Also found a LSD R160 diff in the right ratio. The stick shift now sits a little farther back than stock which actually puts it in a more comfortable position for the driver. Still have to work the trans tunnel cover some more but the basic shape is there, with the sound deadener, insulation a carpet over top of it, it should look pretty smooth.

The gauges are adjustable for better race viewing. I see exposed gauges as becoming a thing in the future. The glove box door survived, which is nice.

Beverly Hills doesn't have the cachet that it used to. The car is race ready though, excess weight stripped, and with the special racing left only alignment on the rear wheel.. And it has the desirable non-EGR intake manifold. And a DieHard battery. p.s. They have other Z's in their showroom.

It annoys me when people in my life say I should sale my Zs while the market's up like it is. They look at BAT and ebay then advise me about cars I know better than they know their kids.