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Somebody probably sent the guy a message saying "you're devaluing the market! That car is worth $20,000!". It'll probably pop back up somewhere.

My pleasure. Glad to help. And a hug would be nice too. I'm a lumberjack and I'm OK. So I was a little pressed for time earlier when I posted that diagram and didn't have time to talk about the use of flashing the high beams here in the US. First of all, if we here were to flash the high beams, we would just pull back on the HI/LO stalk twice in rapid succession. More modern cars have a "make-before-break" type of switch now, but back when the Z's were new, you just pulled the stalk twice. And even before that type of control, the homegrown stuff here often used a foot switch operated by your left foot. You would stomp the switch twice quickly. As for the meanings... Just like where you are, there are several different meanings to the flash. I don't know if there are regional differences in the USA, but where I come from: Quick flash at an oncoming driver can mean "I just passed by something that you might like to know about and you should pay attention." Things like debris on the road, animals along the side of the road, police ahead. That sort of thing. A quick flash at an oncoming driver may also be "You have your high beams on and it bothers me. Please put your low beams on." That may be quickly followed by a longer flash if the desired response is not achieved. A quick flash at an intersection means "You go ahead. I'll wait." A flash from behind usually means "Move over, you're driving too slow." The length of the flash is usually commensurate to how frustrated the guy in the rear is. A quick flash on a multi-lane highway after you have been passed by a faster vehicle means "You are safely beyond me and can tuck back into my lane if you wish." Most often used by trucks, but sometimes I'll give trucks that sign even if I'm driving in a car.

Looks to be pretty solid car with its original matching-numbers engine. Has a few issues that need some attention. Here's the link: https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/d/boerne-1971-datsun-240z/7127117199.html

My wife loves to mow and work in the yard. I offered to mow and she told me not to take her job away. ? I did go out today and replace the string in the trimmer after she ran out.

Alright, fess up... who bought it?

I think most of the flooding was quite a bit south of us in Ohio. We are in good shape here. Of course, the grass was really high, but after a few days without rain, my wife was able to mow today.

The seller left a lot of money on the table on that '71 240Z. Heck, you pay more than that for a solid one that needs a paint job and has no drive train nowadays.

Gone! That looks/looked like a good buy.

Are you planning to drive the car? Download the document that shows why the heat shields were added.

Roland, Here's a link to a shop that has all kinds of 240Z parts: https://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/d/auburn-datsun-parts-cars-for-sale/7112308171.html Steve

I tried for several days in several ways to get that grey paint off of the 3 original hubcaps. It was definitely a grade above spray paint because break cleaner was barely making progress. I wound up trying something more abrasive and that worked too well. :-( I gave up and bought a used set of 4 off of eBay. They aren't perfect by any means, but I am blowing through $$$ in other areas of this car so had to rein it in. I'll post a pic once I get them in and on the car.

So update i got a actual shop now and moved it to its now home, once there i pulled hood off again and started checking everything from start. I found the problem sooo previous owner did some jank wiring ending up switching the connections at the battery i stripped the tape and loom off to inspect the wires and trace and found out that wire number 70 which is suppose to go to the positive terminal was wired to the negative side and the few wires that were suppose to be connected to the negative side connected to the positive numbers 5, 16, 17, 35, 72, 49 after redoing that and cranked the motor would you guess it i have fuel from all 6 injectors instantly, redoing the coil negative to ground caused the clicking that i had not heard yet confirming the issue fixed. I used a picture to re hook up all the plugs and put injectors back in. I cranked the car and got a instant response of a rough idling then died, i adjusted the distributor a few times to no real gain just hard to start and rough idle till it died im not a 100% on fuel level after all this so im going to go back tomorrow and put more gas in it and try again but would my coil being out of spec also cause issue here i planned on going to O Reillys tomorrow and ordering the right coil

Hi Zcarfever, Just replaced the tires on my 240Z. Received a ton of advice on the site. Landed on 205 60 15. The 60's fill the fender well nicely. You lose a little patch width with the 60's, no rubbing issues front or back. Pic attached.

Thanks, @Jeff BerkBerk for the info on the door latch. Got it off. Looks like there is a sweet spot for putting the flathead screwdriver to pop it out without damage. See pic. @Mark Maras, the rag trick worked. Nothing else did. Mutilated the clip, but that's better than breaking the crank.

The switches on top of the steering column are known for broken solder joints and pitting. You can add a relay in various places along the path. Pry the top off of your switch and you might be shocked at what's going on in there. Rabbit hole...

I seem to remember someone using braided steel cable to clean the lines. He inserted the cable all the way thru the line, frayed one end of the cable. hooked a drill motor to the other end and with the drill motor running he slowly pulled the cable back thru the line. I've not tried it but it sounds like fun.