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Do NOT try to Google “Tranny Doctor”...

My tank was super rusty, with rusty fuel pouring out of my under hood filter when I pulled the hose off. So, Pulled the tank. Local radiator shop (the only one that would hot tank fuel tanks wanted $485 to clean and seal with over a month turn around time). So, I set out to clean it myself. Tried a few methods and here are my results: shook out 10 pounds of dirt consistency rusty crap and rust flakes out of it. Used electrolysis for 2 days, changing out the sacrificial steel and soda solution several times. Some, but not great results. Next, swished about a gallon of 1:4 muriatic acid:water a few times, then let it sit over night full at same ratio. It was looking pretty good now. Rinsed with water then dumped Ospho in it, swished it all over, drained it then dried it with a heat gun. I figured the Ospho had converted the rust to iron phosphate. Last thing was pouring a quart of ATF in it, swishing then draining (see pic). See the fuel return tube in bottom right of pic. That thing was clogged solid. I tried forcing wire through it, air pressure, to no avail. I stuck my propane torch in the tank, heated the crap out of it until it was smoking then hit it with air, then.... Thupe!!, the clog came out in a wad. I filled the tank with fuel and plan on keeping it full to prevent rust. I decided against sealing. We'll see. Bottom line. Muriatic acid worked the best at cleaning and Ospho may save it from rusting again.

Repairs done.

LOL. It's a calling. And for the record... I've never done anything like that. Ever. For sure. Never. Especially when threading. Where's the growing nose emoticon?

And for the Cap’t, ...

Looking good! Getting real close now! Once you see that whole body painted, you'll be anxious to finish, especially after what, 4 years??? Wow.

So I have painted and cleared all the interior bits of all the panels as well as the doorways etc. Not perfect but I’m happy! Even the hood came out okay...

Morton took a great line into turn one. Late braking on the outside. Real great execution.

A comment was made about radios; no, they don't have radios necessarily. This is vintage racing, not pro racing. And John's brakes were not cold. He just came out of turn one. John drove into the back of Brian, plain and simple.

Shoji Kato is annoyed: He's the factory representative in Canada of Japan's Datsun car and he's annoyed with dealers across Ontario because they underestimated the market. Datsun is the biggest-selling overseas car in Canada and the other Japanese cars are not far behind. 1971

https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-7799879/Perth-man-cooks-1-5KG-pork-roast-old-Datsun-warn-dangers-leavings-kids-cars.html

Digressive valving is not exactly "new thing" for companies who have been making performance dampers for a long time (KONI has been doing it for at least 50-60+ years) but it might be newer to companies whose products were more replacement grade and not really within the performance realm. It could be that their piston and valving component design might not have allowed the ability to really contour the damping curves very much but have moved in that direction. Many shock companies may not have been around that long or possibly just their marketing companies have simply latched onto "digressive" as a buzzword that they are using heavily now. Some consumer marketing messages may make a big deal about mono-tube or twin-tube design suggesting that one is always better than the other but it is simply not true. There are good and bad examples of both and different cars can have very different needs so it is more important that the damper function is tailored to the vehicle and it usage. Digressive and linear are general terms used to describe shapes of plotted dyno curves (however shocks on cars on roads never operate like dyno graphs look) but there are so many variables in car and damper design that you really can't just hang onto or use it as a "this is good" or "this is not good" gateway. Don't make your purchase on the use or lack of the word "digressive". You did not mention any specific shock brands but it is probably better that way anyway. As to your coil-over questions, it really depends on your usage and expectations of the car. To be a coil-over, it really only means that the spring is mounted on the strut of shock and all 3 of the early Z-cars do that already. Modern usage suggests that you are also wanting to make the lower spring perch height adjustable so you can customize your ride heights, corner weight the car if you want to, and have the flexibility to interchange spring rates is pretty easily. Beyond that, it is pretty wide open as to what your desired outcome will be and thus the path you should follow. With a coil-over, you can select a relatively soft spring rate for a compliant suspension and smooth ride, bump them up quite a bit for firmer ride and sporty control or run really big spring rates for a handling performance only/ don't care about ride quality set-up for mostly track use. It really boils down to what your uses and expectations for the car are. I would let that be the deciding point of whether you choose these Z-car specific Sport dampers or the much more aggressive RACE dampers that are clearly intended for Racing performance track duty with no comfort, no warranty, etc. in mind. Before these new Sports were introduced, there were few options for the car but now they offer more opportunities. Having looked at the damping specs of them all, the RACE units are much, much more aggressive on rebound and compression damping and not specifically fitted as a drop-in for the Z-car strut housings so some level of machining and fabrication may be needed depending upon your intended outcome. The Sport units are made to be a nice performance upgrade for the Z-car but still have a quite reasonable ride quality (so long as you don't overspring the car which will make it harsh), a standard lifetime KONI warranty against defects, be a drop-in solution to fit your housings, etc.. It all depends upon what you want, e.g. "Whats for dinner?" What do you want? Home cooked or eat out? Steak or chicken, Mexican or Italian, etc. Pick what you want to satisfy your interests as there is no specific one right answer for everyone.

I had to use a 1/2" drive 24 inches long pull handle in the plug then pushed it up with a floor jack. My cheap impact wouldn't budge it.

Following an incident when a 240Z tried to use a B8 as a launch pad, Chevron have MODified one for Brian Johnson's next race:

Some "icing" filler and a some light sanding will get it flat again. I will wash it down and respray it tomorrow. At least the clear coat wasn't on yet. The air gun skidded on the fresh paint, removing the three layers of base down to the metal which resulted in ugly scars and ridges. Nothing I could do at that point but move on to the hatch.