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I don't think 'Lstepp4re' should be too high on your list of Experten... You have world-class 'Z Store'/'Vintage Z Program' knowledge at your service right here on the classiczcars forum, and indeed already on this thread, in the form of our fellow member '26th-Z'. He compiled and privately published what most consider to be the definitive written work on the subject, and I'm sure he would be happy to answer any questions you put to him. If he doesn't have the answer - and he usually will - then he will know who to ask.

Dear god don’t let that dashboard see the sunlight it’s beutiful Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Grandson making my day..

think this is called punch drunk.

Bluetooth or not, your tac signal runs off the coil wiring - that shouldn’t change with 123. Edit: I think the 240 wiring is different to my ‘77 260 so you may need a resistor somewhere in the circuit. I will let our wisened elders comment. As for timing curves, the FSM is your best bet. With timing you have 3 advance points to consider: Static timing (or base timing): this is how far advanced the distributor is when installed and without the engine running. Centrifugal advance: increases and decreases with revs. Vac advance: engine load dependent - I.e. wide open throttle is zero vac and zero advance, foot off the throttle is max vac advance. This is used to improve emissions/ fuel economy, keep your engine cooler at idle and improve throttle response from off to on power. Now, “all in” refers to Base + Centrifugal timing (but no vac). So, typically, the best way we set up old distributors is to disconnect vac advance and put a bung over the front carb’s vac pipe. Then turn the fast idle screw up so you have say 2800 rpm, then set the “all in” timing at anywhere from 30-34 degrees. I find that with a stock dizzy at 34 @3000rpm my idle timing sits around 17 degrees. Then when you connect up Vac you will see another 15 degrees added. This is perfectly safe as the mix is very lean at idle / part throttle and needs the additional timing to burn fully. Now onto the 123. Pay great attention to this. Take your plugs out, turn the engine by hand (using either the cam sprocket bolt or the crank pulley - I cant get to the latter on mine). Put the engine at the static / base timing point. I use zero as what I see on the 123 curve is what I get when the engine is running but it does require extra cranking for cold start. If you don’t go for zero do yourself a favour and set it at 10 degrees as it’s easy to subtract later. Now, if you are aiming for a stock curve, then I would go with: 500 rpm (anti-stall): 7 (optional) 800 rpm (idle): 5 2400 rpm: 18 3500 rpm: 20 (optional but works well) 6000 rpm: 24 (optional for best top end power) Remember the above numbers are 10degrees less to account for the static / base timing. Connect the vac but leave it at 0 degrees for now and run with this set up to see if you are happy with the way the car runs. When you are happy with this, monitor the MAP gauge on the app or use a normal vac gauge and determine how much vac you are generating at idle and at 3000 rpm. Then set 10 degrees (your stock dizzy does 15 but I like to play safe on vac for various reasons one of which is the unknown “rate of attack” with the 123). Here is FSM vac curve Here is a great table - see if you can find your stock dizzy Apologies about the rant but it was a long commute to work ;)

Now to strip my original passenger door and see how bad it is compared to the donor. Wish me luck.

Dry is fine but other options that are also fine are: Aviation Form a Gasket ( @siteunseen) Copper Spray a Gasket (My fav) Silver Paint Anti-seize brushed on They seal and allow for easy removal.

If he hasn't put a wrench on at least one to try and remove it, it's all conjecture. There are many grades of SS. Just don't know enough to say either way. Has anyone broken a stud when it's free and clear like these? They break when they're under tension, clamping, but I've never broken one when it was exposed like that. Good luck CO. I can't imagine that you'll leave those monstrosities in there after the work you put in to that valve cover bolt hole. Doing one but not the other doesn't fit inside the same brain. The manifold clamping is much more important than clamping a valve cover down. Hence my zip ties joke. It's been 8 hours, they're probably all out by now...

Installed some turbo wheels. Sent from my Coolpad 3310A using Tapatalk

Do not clean it, put the original pieces back on. Store as is in a carcoon and never drive it. It will only be a barn find once and that will add to the value. Wait a few years and put it in an auction as is. In the meantime go buy a nice 240Z to drive around.

If it is really 350mi then sell on Hemmings or BAT. You have a car worth >$60k

I think the metal in the mirror area is solid, just pitted. I will neutralize the rust and skim coat that. I don’t mind a small amount of body filler in places. I am not building a concours car. I just want it to look good and last. Heavy bondo tends to separate after a while.

I wouldn't spend too much time trying to make sense of the PO's thought processes. They might start to make sense. That said, have you searched the top and the bottom of the block for the reference stamps that show the block's orientation in the car?

Spatial Dyslexia? Or just liked to punch things.

I used to use a pertronix igniter and it had similar misfire problems over 6k. I'd try a 280zx distributor if you can borrow one from somebody near.

Guys, Thanks for all the help. Looks like I'm going to give it a crack and clean/ freshen up my SU carbs. Thanks again!

Nissan has them. Bought these a year or so ago. Call and give them these numbers and they can tell you if they're still available.

Here's what I have from HLS30-40904. Looks like a black filler was placed behind the standard radio cover plate. That's not 68835-E4100 like the other picture. Right now, Pete Evanow has chimed up on BaT. He says that all of the Vintage Zs came without radios.

I don't think the HKS Zero-R counts as a rare *Nissan* product, as it was produced by HKS based on a standard production model R32 GT-R. I'm thinking closer to home, and within the S30-series Z range. Top of the rarity pile for me - and qualifying as a truly special model in terms of spec and details - is the PS30-SB 'Fairlady Z432-R'. Quite, quite different from the PS30 'Fairlady Z432', and only a handful sold to the general public for road use. Certainly less than 20 examples.

It was a long build, but my Datsun 240z affectionately know as the 680g is done. Here is the whole build from start to finish.

Videos: Auto Tune Motor.mp4 buttons tune and light.mp4 buttons tune and light.mp4 backlight video.mp4 backlight video.mp4

Photos: Just cleaned with damp cloth. I did not do the following in case purchaser wishes to do so or if they wish me to do so: Silver paint can be touched up. Yellowed window can be cleaned clear. Replace blue spliced wire with fuse and choke Repair spliced 2nd speaker modification connection (black wire tail) It works 100%. Pots and switches were cleaned with Caig Deoxit and all moving parts cleaned and re-lubricated with correct silicon lube.

I thought I would share a problem I had that I have never seen before. My 72 240z with 3 screw carbs was running perfectly. With the floats really well adjusted using the 10mm method, the carbs with SM needles run great at about 2.5-2.75 turns down on the mixture screw. With Colortune, idle is a touch rich while 3k rpm is nice and blue. I had been fiddling around with and testing out a lot of little things including fuel pump, some heat shielding around the carb float bowls, fuel pressure gauge, fuel pressure regulator, etc. Suddenly when out on a drive I noticed that the engine was running out of oomph at 4500 rpm. I went on with my other projects but kept trying to figure out what was going on with this symptom. It got worse though and I started noticing it at all rpms. Just felt like fuel starvation. I felt really good about ignition because I had recently changed to Petronix elect ignition and coil and had tested successfully after. Was getting good spark. Finally, I decided to pull the air cleaner and look at carb adjustment. When I did this, I noticed that the front carb fuel hose from float body to nozzle was crimped some. It wasn't closed shut but was visibly crimped into a kind of drastic angle. I thought...no way that is the problem. But, I had an extra new ZTherapy hose and swapped. Started up and runs perfect. So, the crimped hose was enough to starve the front carb bowl. How did it happen? I am guessing that sometime when I removed the air cleaner backing plate I reinstalled and crimped the hose somehow. Hard to say. Will probably never know. Just thought I would share in case someone else is struggling with similar symptoms and by some chance this solves the problem.

The air screws are #10 on the diagram. Also shown in the last 2 pictures of the first post in this thread. Those are the ones I turn to balance my air flow.

More fun with doors. @zKars provided me with nice “looking” replacement doors for my beat up originals. The first one (passenger side) was a disappointment with a lot of bondo and mashed panel metal.