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What you have beed told is completely wrong - - All automobile manufacturers issue an MSO, it is the document which is used to transfer ownership from the Manufacturer to the Distributor or Dealer. The Dealers must have the MSO in order to get financing for the cost of their inventory, plus any property insurance. Then it is used as the necessary documentation for any/all States to issue a Ownership Title to the first Retail Customer. This process goes way back to the 50's.

You'll find that most of us are compulsive in that way. The anal retentiveness has to come out.

Thanks @Captain Obvious...got those washers inverted. Thanks also @Zup and @Terrapin Z for the parts. Things are coming together here. Will get those non-brass/copper parts plated.

Will do thank you for all the advice yall have given me

As has been noted above this does look like a late 70 or early 71. (possibly sold as a 71) The vin collaborates that as well. There is usually a build date plate inside the drivers door jam that will have a month / year when the car was built. My guess is Nov or Dec of 1970 The Drivers side strut tower should have a vin plate screwed on that will have the vin number and engine number. The stamp on the motor should be found in the circled area. You might have to clean it off some to see it. I have seen vin plates missing, or painted over. All this will tell you is if the engine is original to the car. If it is they are worth more being left that way, again as mentioned above. All in all it looks unmolested, I would keep it that way if it were mine. I do also understand the allure to add big HP and mod it up. I'd say we ^ would just like to help you make a more informed decision on what to do with it, as that was your original question. Ultimately it is your choice.

Except that UV effect would be stronger on exposed surfaces vs shaded surfaces, leading to marked differences in shade. I don't buy it.

I like the sea of 510s sitting behind the two US land yachts.

No, before you rebuild the brakes and motor, unscrew the vin plate from the strut tower. Clean the plate enough to see the indented numbers, Post your findings!!

It's betweem the back 2 plugs...

Yeah, let me know what you come up with for a source. I do think there has been discussion about the bushing orientation in the past and I think I was involved, but it's tough when you can't even find your own stuff. In the meantime, I dug up some more pics. This is what I believe is the correct orientation for the rubber bushings: And I based that off these old bushings pulled off a 260Z and pictures from other peoples cars. I'm relatively confident that they were original factory and they were installed like this: Another shot where you can see the indent from the convex side of the washers on the rubber side: Sample size of one, but that's all I got.

Start at the battery, then the fusible links, and onward...

I'll put the vin number when I get home anything else I should look for? There's a lot of info yall are telling me I had no clue about

And no finger guard on the radiator - no obvious sign of its removal.

The snorkel on the air filter has the butterfly / heat riser feature. Per a comment I received from Carl Beck a while back, the heat riser from the exhaust manifold was added somewhere about 6,000 units into production, not reflected in the parts catalog. The car can easily be a '70 production date. I see the coil has been replaced with some kind of electronic box.

Much better on the washers. Back side washers too, right? Hey... Someone has to ask.

So I had the car out at the weekend, went to Brooklands on Saturday with my mate in his C7 and then on to brands hatch on Sunday for the Historic racing having been out for a spirited drive in the morning. I’m pleased to report that the car was leaving a 240bhp mx5 turbo and the Corvette behind through the corners, as you’d expect though they both reeled me in as soon as the roads straightened up however it was surprising most people for a middle aged lady and well and truly holding its own down B roads. Another exciting discovery was that the exhaust is shooting flames on overrun and on some up and downshifts particularly with rev matching. People were enjoying the sound of the exhaust from several back in the convoy as well. Rather scarily, we’ve covered 1300 miles since it was serviced only a few weeks ago and need to up the insurance mileage to see us through the year…. Finally after being driven mad by wind and cabin noise all the way to Spa and back I invested in some draft excluded which has been installed onto the door frames to create a positive seal all the way around the door frame and eliminate all wind noise! I’m sure the purists will be up in arms however I took inspiration from the 280Z door seal and its works so a £4 fix from eBay. I’m now moving onto stopping more car rattles and shakes and soundproofing to add some more comfort for longer journeys where possible…. Rubbish photos but before and after: IMG-0513 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr IMG-0516 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr Quick stop at Brooklands: DSC-1620 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr

look for a m8x1.0 banjo fitting and make your own.

I would agree with the likelihood pointing to that. Don't forget though that the seller says he took it off his new GS31, which points to a production date on, or after, mid 1976. Some may find that a reason to mistrust it as a reference for earlier cars. You think he refurbed the wood composite, but didn't bother to strip and repaint the spokes? I think its the original (Izumi) factory finish. Not to add weight to your argument, but here's one of the brochure images for the mid-'76 up S31-series cars in Japan. I have no evidence to support the theory, but I have a hunch that they might well have used specially made 'blond' steering wheels for brochures and advertising, simply because they showed up better for contrast than the production items:

I've never seen a blond wheel shown in the early ads nor the deeper red (maroon) sported by the almost NOS wheel being held for ransom. IMO it's been refurbished.

I had found in a couple of SU tuning instructions about lifting the pins to check the mixture. Haynes, Chitons, and even the FSM all only mention this pin as a way to determine if the piston and/or needle is aligned correctly and not sticking for any other reason. The other publications I found had, not only the method above, but referred to lifting the pin very slightly (1/32 the web page says "good luck" about this) to help determine the idle AFR to some degree. If lifted any more than that they will stall that carb out like "site" says ^ This one from the web : http://www.sucarbs.com/?page_id=20 Under "test fuel mixtures" And the attached Tuning SU Cabs book. I am sure I read about the pins in another book, but can not find that reference right now. (page 25 I think) I'm no expert by any means, but mine a running pretty good. Tuning_SU_Carbs.pdf