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Finally back home.

Nah, just plain old chicken. There's a lot of good stuff in the thread that you should recheck, all the stuff that people mentioned. The EGR and the AFM glue blobs and the CSV and the coolant temperature sensor and the TPS (actually TVS). The AFM and the sensor are the most likely. Take a magnifying glass and see if you can tell if the glue blobs are not where they started from. Check the coolant sensor circuit at the ECU connector first, not the actual sensor. Make sure the TVS isn't on WOT. Check, check, check...

Since it seems that the PO's mechanic might have "hacked" some things to get it to pass emissions, a new plan might be in order. A basic tuneup maybe. Confirm initial timing at idle, confirm valve lash is set correctly. Have cylinder pressures been measured yet? Has the cylinder head and block combination been confirmed? There is a low compression ratio NA engine floating around out there that we helped a guy put together. It would be nice to see a summary of engine specs and actions taken so far. Cylinder head, block (the engine serial number should match the plate on the fender well). Too many pages to go back through the whole thing. My 76 has a 78 engine in it and a bunch of other minor mods. You never know what the trail of PO's have done. From Post #1 - "1976 280z California edition (manf. date Sept.1975). Bought the car in late Jan. 2019, car passed emissions test and it started and drove fine until 2 weeks ago when problem first occurred."

injectors go Click! No magic smoked released from the ECU.

I guess most of my question was just based on the impression that Sean(?) makes some very nice exhaust parts. I don't necessarily consider it a move backwards, but was looking for the impetus

@motorman7, thanks for the kind words! I was a little worried about going with the lizard skin but after it was done I was glad that I did and I think it came out nicely. Now it is time to start piecing it together. Good news, I just got ordered to stay in San Diego for 4 more years so there is no need to rush the project. I am following your thread very closely and hoping I can make mine look as good as what you are doing.

Do unto to others before they do unto you. op·por·tun·is·tic /ˌäpərt(y)o͞oˈnistik/ adjective exploiting chances offered by immediate circumstances without reference to a general plan or moral principle. "the change was cynical and opportunistic"

Nice work, that's where I want Dat boi (my 75) to get his body and paint work when its time. Would be nice if someone in the SE did that quality of work.

I use the stock manifold on my cars. Never really liked the hollow sound of headers and have heard (but can’t verify) that headers don’t add that much h.p......stock exhaust manifolds are fairly efficient. If I were building a true race car, I would go headers......on the street, stock manifold works for me. IMO

And the winner is...EuroDat. Replaced the clutch release bearing to a taller 5 speed one and it works. Thanks for all the responses.

My install purchase a full system which went together well with a few exception. On cars with SUs there is not enough space to used the stock heat shield so custom spring brackets were required. Additionally the exhaust tube for number six cylinder protruded to approximately 3/4 inch below the soft rubber tube on the bottom of the rear SU. I was uncomfortable with a 450+ degrees that close and no room for a heat shield. The next header solved the close contact to the SU but made contact with the torsion rod bracket and would require custom fabrication. Up until now I have used a ceramic coated stock manifold and down pipe with 2.25 exhaust a glass pack resonator an a magnaflow muffler. So I decided to experiment with Sean’s stainless system and the changes I mentioned above. So far so good. Nice sound under throttle but a little loud at WOT. Nice low tone at 70 mph at 2500-2700 rpm. I like the fact that the stainless system uses V clamps on the resonator making it east to remove the system for other work. Tucks up tight except where the pipe is next to the diff. Looks great from the back.

Narrator: Oh, how long can trusty Cadet Stimpy hold out? How can he possibly resist the diabolical urge to push the button that could erase his very existence?! WILL his tortured mind give in to its UNCONTROLLABLE desires?! CAN he withstand the temptation to push the button that even NOW beckons him EVER closer?! WILL he succumb to the maddening urge to eradicate history?!? At the MERE PUSH of a SINGLE BUTTON! The beautiful, SHINY button! The jolly CANDY-LIKE button! WILL he hold out, folks?!? CAN he hold out?!?!?

I know I will prob not be able to resist the temptation (vague reference to a ren and stimpy cartoon with stimpy pulling guard duty over the button that can change history....

Slowly starting to put things together. Today I got the head lights and covers on along with the side markers. Still waiting on the headliner from MSA and the correct front valance that will need to go to the painter

All better. Holes drilled to 11mm