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That's for the 78 280Z and 280ZX's. One inlet.

Back home in the crib. Now the fun stuff.

Haha - good questions! So yes the hand-written note was the successful formula that resulted in the correct form with the least distortion of the surrounding panel. Small holes can be punched without drilling but the larger holes worked better (less deformation of the surrounding panel) by drilling the hole first. The hole in the strap is to slide a pin through to line up both sides. After that the press will “tell” you if you are out of alignment as you will see the metal start to deform unevenly, or the die will start to tip to one side. All the dies are 1/8” wall thickness except one that is a little thicker because the metal supplier didn’t have 1/8” in stock. I didn’t shape the edges of the male or female dies. The gap between the dies causes the metal to stretch in the gently curved profile. There are actually 3 different size holes in the rad support (4 actually but I am only doing 3), so 6 (3 sets) of dies in total. Whew! Hope this helps ....

Wouldn't that be great to be able to roll down the quarter windows and get that look anytime? Probably wouldn't be that hard to customize it so the quarter windows were removable. Need to start a new project.

pictures (on moving pictures/video) is worth a 1000 words.

The collar matches the pressure plate, not the transmission. That's the message we're trying to send. The clutch fork pivot ball is in the exact same position on both transmissions, relative to the engine, flywheel, and pressure pate. You might just make sure that slave cylinder bleed screw is angled upward when bleeding. Give it another bleed. Sometimes people don't get the fork spring clips properly attached to the pivot ball and things get jammed up. Maybe make sure that the fork is right. Just offering suggestions. There are no parts to suggest swapping to if you used all of the same parts from the 4 speed and did not change the pressure plate.

this is an example of how the fuel pressure regulator should work.

I'm using the same pressure plate, fork and collar that was used when the car had the 4 speed in it. The collar and fork operated fine when installed in the 5 speed and I never gave it a thought that there could be various sized collars. Sound like that may be the problem. Thanks for the information and I will post on my progress.

The first Z cars were delivered from the factory in late 1969. Nissan North America is celebrating the 50th in 2020 (ZCON at Nissan NA HQ in 2020). They also celebrated the 40th in 2010. You can find a previous discussion on the subject here:

Good job. A great place for testing drive line noise, u joints, is a underground or enclosed public parking garage. The enclosed space and tight turns up & down the ramps amplify the noise, make it easier to tell left side or right etc.

I got the halfshafts back from NW driveline. They did great work. Even painted them. I've put everything back together and went on a test run with some mixed city/freeway driving. Don't hear any clicks or any other abnormal noises. The diff whined a bit at first but shut up after a bit of driving. I guess I can move on to other things now. Thanks to all who pointed me in the right direction.

wow, that is bummer, poor QC and packaging.

Yes, 225/50/15. I have not lowered or modified the suspension. Thank you

Might I suggest that the outer tie rod be inverted as in the picture it is upside down.

One thing I have learned - I found a Snap-On dealer stopped at a local garage. He has what you need. 10/12mm flare nut wrench. Best investment you will make dealing with these connections. Not sure what they are priced at now, but it was a hard bite at $12 for a single wrench when I bought mine. Has paid for itself many times over by NOT rounding off the nut on countless brake lines....

Dude - I swear on the Bible I have never been to Seattle or helped you in person.... oh wait, you must be talking about someone else... ?