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I just bought a full 240z ss hardline brake set and NOS Nabco 15/16 master for $150 USD

It's obviously making the data fit the theory, but if forced, I could still believe they are date codes... Reversing the numbers and reading from bottom to top: 7047 could be 7/4/77 6212 could be 6/21/72 491 could be 4/9/71 Like I said, probably making the data fit a theory, but that's all I got.

As I understand things there are several versions of the E88 head. Some have large combustion chambers and small valves. That would be a "boat anchor" head. Your head though, seems to be well thought out, with larger valves and a known combustion chamber volume. You know what you have and it seems designed for the overall engine package. I've found, in my long and varied history of any type of "bench racing' that people who don't really know what they're talking about are the ones who use terms like "boat anchor". Once the head has been modified it's no longer an E88 head. A better description might be that it's an "open chamber" head (to distinguish from the squish type P79 and P90 heads), with 35 and 44 mm valves, and 44 cc combustion chambers. E88 is what it used to be.

I always put some lift on the wheels when car is on jack stands, just enough to make it so the suspension is not hanging by the rubber. added bonus if the jacks fail there is another line of defense from the car falling on me. if that is not practical I remove the wheels, to take the weight of the rim/tire off.

Here's a few pics of the 11mm rail he built for me. *not installed yet, not tested...

F16 165/215 again on flat ground. I also received and installed F9 70 idle jets this evening. Driveablility seems much better at lower speeds. I am going to re calibrate the O2 sensor when I have a chance as well as I haven't done it in a while. 81418 by blodi, on Flickr

Yes I’ve used those, makes things easier.

I haven't swapped a head. But, your E88 is probably not much different than an N42, if it has the same valve sizes. A P90 has a larger combustion chamber and will lower your CR. And it has the same valve sizes. So, basically, all you'll get is a lower compression ratio. You will get some "quench" but, even though quench is supposed to be a good thing, it's not very clear that Nissan's quench really offers much. People talk about the theory and the principle but the actual benefits are hard to measure. Plus, you have to get it just right or you end up creating a problem. https://help.summitracing.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/4941/~/engine-basics-–-quench

So I can speak with some authority here as I have had both the Mallory Unilite as well as the 123 Ignition. I used the Mallory without vacuum advance (running triple webers). Also used the power filter and always carried a spare ignition module with me, although I never had to use it. Had it connected to an MSD 6AL as well as a Mallory high power coil. Aside from a more modern distributor that the Unilite offered over the OEM setup, one of the primary reasons that I purchased it was that you could change the advance springs to optimize the advance curve for your particular car (Webers, headers, Isky cam, etc). However, there were 2 problems with the mallory advance setup. One was that finding the right combination of springs was all trial and error and the second issue was that to change the springs, you needed to remove the Unilite from the engine and disassemble part if the distributor. A big PITA. Regardless, I can say that it was reliable and at least with the advance curve that it came with, my car ran well and never missed a beat. I am now running the 123 Ignition and I would never go back. I use it with the MSD 6AL, which I had confirmed by one of the 123 engineers in the Netherlands. The local US rep was also extremely helpful, especially when I had a fit problem with the keyway that mates with the oil pump shaft. Got that resolved fairly easily and I understand that they machine the adapter a little different now for a much better fit. Changing the curve is a snap and in fact you can even have 2 different curves stored and switch between them even while driving. You simply connect a PC to the USB port on the 123, design the curve you want with the 123 software (with or without vacuum) and load it in. Probably takes all of 5 minutes. If you don't like the way it performs, just make the appropriate changes and load a new one. That simple. This has all of the benefits of the Unilite and makes optimized advance curves a snap to program. Agree that it is a little more expensive, but when you add the power filter, spare module, etc, it comes out about the same. Frankly having used both I would easily pay $200 more for the 123. You can find a complete write up I did on the install here: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/48627-very-cool-ignition-upgrade/?hl=%2Bcool+%2Bignition+%2Bupgrade Hope this helps. Mike.