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Huge props to @DamonR He helped me purchase the bumper and dropped it off at the UPS store. It should be here Friday, just in time for Cody's birthday. Thanks also to @Mark Marasfor the connection

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More Pictures. Price $9000. It has 2 small dings- one at the front of the left fender where a grocery cart hit it, and one at the bottom rear of the right front fender. No rust. Everything works. The car has been well maintained its entire life. It can be driven anywhere. Hankook tires, have good tread on them, date coded 2011. Manual transmission. All the injectors have been replaced at one time or another.

Hey it was my pleasure and the seller “Shane” is a very good guy and pretty talented. He gave me a nice tour of his shop, nice meeting enthusiasts in the same area

So getting down to finishing out the interior. Had to replace the center console it was just too warped from the heat to be able to glue back together . Interesting note that the original console had no slot visible for the choke, though flipped over you could see where it had been filled in by the factory . Speakers ! So the B pillar speaker holes had speakers installed. The stereo in the car was a Sansui cassette deck with Sansui speakers. By my measurements they were 5 -1/4” speakers, thus the covers were 6” across. The plastic quarter window panels were notched as well as the Masonite pillar panels to accommodate these speakers. It didn’t really look too bad( I’ll load up a pic later), but one of the quarter panels were cracked badly. I got a replacement SET, so not sure if I want to notch the new panel or delete the whole speaker idea in the B pillar holes. If I delete then I have to find replacement B pillar Masonite . What to do? So I guess originally the speakers were behind the plastic totally? Waiting on dash cap to finish out all what I’m going to do on this car as far as interior. Everything works, every light ! Not sure if the seat belt warning system works yet. Put my Centerlines on this car for now. They work pretty good with this color car I think. Put 205/60/15 on them . The owner still hasn’t committed to keeping this car so I gave him some loaner sneakers to drive the car around . Of course it won’t be much fun with bad shocks. He won’t be thrilled with an auto trans and poor handling. It’s a shame if he judges the car based on that. He has ridden in mine so he knows the potential . The bones are so excellent on this car, hope he sees that.

I just took the EFI harness off my 77 and there is also a ground in the engine compartment the drivers side strut bulge. I missed this one in the drawing above.

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Are you saying that it will stay running if you keep it above 1500 RPM? But won't hold an idle below that? If you set the idle at 1550 it would idle all day? What is voltage at 1500 RPM and above and below? That would be a clue about voltage being a problem. You can watch the ammeter also, if it goes from positive (charging) to negative (draining the battery) when it starts to lose spark, it's a clue. The magnetic pickup coil in the distributor has an air gap that needs to be set correctly, to generate the voltage for the ignition module. The voltage passes through the red and green wires to the module, and oscillates from negative to positive. Also, if you have the red and green wires on the wrong terminals you'll get a rough idle as timing will jump around. Make sure that green goes to G and red goes to W. Sometimes the reman distributors use blue wires. If you're not sure, just swap the wires, and see if it gets better. It won't hurt anything. It changes the shape of the trigger pulse from the distributor.

Put a jumper battery on your car. What year car is it. I used a LED in my 72. It sat all day and car started. Optima redtop battery on a battery tender when not driven 72 body and block, everything else 71, Tokico springs, Illumina, R180 CLSD, 83 close ratio, 3.90 gears, Ztherapy SUs, BRE 15X7 Libre wheels and BRE front spoiler.

There is an easy mod where you use a Timesert thread adapter to enable you to thread in mechanical adjuster posts instead of the hydraulic ones.

Dropped the tranny today in my '76 280z with a '77-'78 five speed. Originally I had thought the pressure plate was faulty after I replaced the master and slave cylinders and adjusting the clutch pedal. Upon further inspection, the clutch and pressure plate definitely weren't the culprit. Now I haven't scoured the web to see if anyone else has experienced this besides googling a few key words, but a few really experienced Z guys I know say they've never seen this. What do you think? My symptoms were just the car being harder and harder to put into gear over the course of a few days. As far as I know, the car was originally a California model although the transistor ignition unit is from non-cal with a cal distributor. The car spent time in Phoenix and now resides in Tucson with me. Stock fuel injected 2.8 with what looks like a stock clutch and flywheel. Original slave and master cylinder looked to be of oem quality. Just some info for brainstorming. Tell me what you think!

Yes, I have seen this before. Wasn't on this Zed I have now. The crack was between the pivot ball and the top vinger going to the thust bearing. It would flex and the peddle felt like the system had air in it. Bled and bled the system, even changed the master and slave cylinders before we found.

A friend lost the clutch fork on his 280ZX track car at the Mitty this past April. It could just be a case of the 40 year old metal showing its age.

I had the same thing happen with my son 2.5 RS. The pivot ball worked it way through the lever. We replaced the lever and throw out bearing and cleaned up the area the throw out road on. Make sure you have the right size parts for your transmission. Lot of discussion and photos on this sight 72 body and block, everything else 71, Tokico springs, Illumina, R180 CLSD, 83 close ratio, 3.90 gears, Ztherapy SUs, BRE 15X7 Libre wheels and BRE front spoiler.

I've had the pivot ball snap off. Never seen this before. Maybe there's a wrong part somewhere in the clutch system causing that. Something is probably too long and causing excess pressure on the pivot is my first guess. Chuck

That's a pretty well executed convertible

Ah.. to be 16 again... Them RB's is spendy motors. https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww&ei=dq5PVNe5B8j8igLU9ICABg&ved=0CAMQ1S4#q=rb20det&tbm=shop