Leaderboard

You'll be pleased to know that the slow wiper speed isn't an issue at higher mph. The wipers will lift off the windshield.

Finally, just last week the car went to media blasting. As of right now, we're grinding out the areas that need patching or have heavy filler covering rot and rusted out areas - overall not as bad as I expected but as you can see the fenders are not in great shape. I may think about replacing them. As you can see from the second picture below, the roof has lost all integrity since I removed the sunroof that was installed. I'm picking up a donor roof on Saturday in Sacramento and will let my body guy take the replacement job as it's just too much for me. Looking forward to getting that done as it's a big eye sore at the moment.

I have spoken to them before and they sent me out a price list:

It has been over 2 months since I last updated this, but rather than do it here I'm actually going to move this into a more coherent build thread as this one started off a little messy. In any case, the car is entirely stripped down and has been media blasted. It is being epoxy primed right now and the next step is to do some surgery on the roof to undo the damage done by the god awful sunroof. Keep an eye out for the new thread as I'm looking forward to some feedback and advice. Thanks.

Yes. And they wired differently. The red lens should be a 2-filament bulb for "park" and "stop" lamps. The amber should be single filament and used only for turn signal and flasher.

Seems like the US cars were all red, Europe and others required amber. If I remember right. I bought mine from futofab.com and love 'em.

Pretty sure I've read about trucks, chains, and trees. Maybe a story about a come-along (hand held cable winch) and two trees. You didn't say much about what "pulled on 'em like crazy" means. Maybe just get crazier.

It has been a while since a serious update on the 240Z has happened. it was a bit of a hectic time the last few weeks. Aside from marrying my wife and having a three-week / 4850km road-trip to sweden and back (See here) we also started building our House including a big Workshop and Garage (See here), which will be the final home of the Z, and where it will be assembled. At least my bodyshop guy was working during my absence and sent me some updates from the Z. No big things, but again those small details that matter and make the difference between a cheap resto and a bit more serious one. The door gap at the rear fender has been adjusted and aligned, so that it will have a perfect fit. Before: And after my Panelbeater worked his magic. Looks absolutely lovely if you ask me. Now just hope fore some more work getting done soon Oh, and waiting for some interesting reads from Japan too ?

Damn, that looks good and strong, you don't need help just encouragement. Remember that the wings in front of the Rad support carry very little weight so don't need to be as beefy as the tube you have already built, in fact once you get in front of the Rad support you don't even need a tube, angle iron would do the job. Just make sure you provide a drainage hole near the front of that structure in case any any water gets in the fresh air hole.

I was lucky and got an early alternator. I wish I could have taken the free shell too. https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/d/71-datsun-240z-parts-free/6658491752.html

Here's where I'm at tonight. It started going in good then the heat moved it abit. She burned a few holes i had to chase on the stock sheet metal but overall its there! Not as pretty as I wanted but it's solid. It's actually 16 guage I used over the straight run. Did that because of the double sheet metal I saw inside of that "tube". Now I need to figure out how to work those front little wing pieces ahead of the rad support. Slowly but surely. FedEx delivered my tabco stuff today yeehaw I got me some fresh sheet metal. Hopefully since the quarters are in relatively decdnt shape away from the rotten lip... I wont be chasing holes around ha. I appreciate all the input aswell, this is a different ball game than blasting 1/4 inch plate together. Hopefully once I'm through with all the front end stuff the rear quarter panel fit up and welding will be smooth. I'd hate to screw that up. Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

My point, exactly (and a very nice piece of fab work by our friend in Ft. Saskatoon). Try replicating the overall panel with pieces of 'box board' (aka packaging from a grocery store frozen pizza), using masking tape to hold the pieces together. The box board will only be happy bending in one plane (kind of like 18-gauge steel). Might take a few tries to get down to something you're happy with, but pizza is cheap (and goes well with beer). Also worth remembering something the you, yourself pointed out at the beginning of this project, that being that nobody's going to see this panel after the car is finished and on the road. All you're aiming for is a something that's structurally sound and fits. Applauding your work from the sidelines.

Installed my Mike Yoes Racing oil spray bar on the new head. All of mine are junk after 40 years. Good insurance. Also installed distributor and re-installed my ground strap from block to head.

I'm going ahead and buying one tomorrow (at their shop). FYI, they will have a booth at the Monterey Motorsports Reunion races (formerly the "Monterey Historics") later this month, which for the first time ever will have Datsun/Nissan as the featured mark. Its also the first time any Asian manufacturer will the featured races. https://journal.classiccars.com/2018/02/28/nissan-will-featured-marque-rolex-monterey-motorsports-reunion/

Call me if you want. I'll put SWMBO on the phone. YOU can ask...

Hey Folks, I have read extensively about putting a 280zx distributor into 240z and that seems like a great upgrade. However, 260z and 280z both had electronic ignition distributors and I was wondering why people don't swap those into the 240z instead/also. The reason I am asking is because I can easily get rebuilt 260z and 280z distributors and they bolt right in with no differences to the dizzy mount as far as I can tell. However the 280zx distributor has a different mounting block and I can't seem to find any of those to purchase, I don't think they are included in the rebuilt Cardone distributors. I feel like this answer should be out there, but I have been searching this forum and others for literally hours and have come up short. Tons of 280zx info and nothing about 260 and 280. Appreciate the help.

Don't forget plastic straws...

I don't know about the 280zx coil, but 280z had a 0.45-0.65ohm coil with a 1.15-1.45 ohm ballast resistor for 1.8 ohm total. The 240z (points distributors) had a 1.5 ohm coil and 1.5 ohm ballast for 3 ohm total. I am not going the 280zx route but the tach wiring is the same as Blue's instructions so I should be good.

I haven't tried the conversion to a 260Z or 280Z distributor. I went with the ZX conversion in my 73. A PO did the conversion in my 74. The 260Z and 280Z used a transistor ignition unit (TIU) to control the spark. You would to need to figure out how to install a TIU into the car. Another alternative would be to use a GM HEI to trigger the spark. There is information online (including this forum) from people who have converted their cars to use an HEI module. I cannot say what would happen to your tachometer with either conversion. It may require figuring out how to adapt a 260Z or 280Z tach into your wiring.

https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/20/hazard-switch-brake-light-turn-signal-circuit-analysis/ Top & bottom should flash. Headlights and hazards have different ground paths. The negative side of the headlight circuit goes from the headlights, through the high/low beam switch and connects to a ground wire at the steering column. The black wire for the ground is shown going all over the place in the wiring diagram, but it does look like it is supposed to use the wiper motor body as one of the places where it is bonded to the chassis. [Edit] I missed two other ground points. One is going to the battery, and the other is the ground in back that I mentioned for the turn signals. The hazard lights are grounded to the same places as the turn signals.

We've all heard Z headlight nacelles referred to as "Sugar Scoops" due to their unique shape and similarity to a large commercial sugar scoop.. I think mine qualify as "Ash Trays" in light of the ash fallout from the local forest fire over recent days. It looked like it was snowing, but the temperature was 122º and the flakes were ashes from the nearby blaze. Dennis