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Since I found just really expensive Urethane front lips (over 500$) I thought of trying my own. Yesterday I made the first part of the frame I’m going to use for a Prototype mold. Sorry for the bad quality. My idea is to use this to create the molding sample and then use just a top metal inlay to make it rigid when I’m going to pour the Urethane in the mold. The Urethane I’m going to use will be a Shore A75. Does someone have experience and inputs on what I have to look at ? What Problems could I have? Thanks in advance Marcel

I didn't study it too hard because all of the lines and numbers and words make my head hurt, but it seems like the info might be in the Body chapter. Might have to make some assumptions about how engineers/draftsmen think. Looks like they only show one, which might mean they're both the same. And I don't know if there's enough in there to fully answer the question. Here's a sample...

That sucks when it happens. The last tap I broke, split down the vertical length. It was a real pita to get out. I made such a botched job of it, I needed a helicoil to fix it. And yes "last", Im a veteren tap breaker. Tapping stainless is not easy You know that is bonus points, breaking a tap off "cleaning" threads. Btw: The fabrication/welding work on the suspension looks really good. Top job.

What a stroke of luck. I hope everything is as good as it looks. I was wondering if the front bumper shocks are the same for both the early and late model 280Z. Did they bolt the late bumper to her early bumper shocks or did they remove her early style and install the late style shock with the bumper? Yes get any hard to find interior parts and switches as spares.

I would use the center wire from the coil, as Chas mentioned, not a spark plug wire. You can stick a bolt in it or maybe a spark plug. Then you'll get six times as many sparks, if the coil and ignition module are okay. If you still don't get any spark, connect a small wire to the coil's negative post (Chas's suggestion again), turn the key on, and tap the other end of the wire to ground. Have the center wire of the coil, with something metallic in it, close to ground, about a spark plug gap away. You should see a small spark there and a big spark from the end of the center wire of the coil. You will be essentially acting as the ignition module, making and breaking the coil power circuit. This test will narrow it all down to the coil. As Chas said, if you don't get a spark with this test your coil is bad. When you did the test below, what you did was connect the two leads to essentially the same point. The coil negative is connected to the battery positive post, through the coil, then the positive post and the wiring. Every thing looks about right on your measurements. Do the test with the wire on the negative post. Connect the wire, let it hang in space, turn on the key, tap-spark-tap-spark-tap...is what should happen. Your injectors should click on every third tap also. It's a simple test of the ECU and wiring, in addition to the coil

June Bug paint job. 8^)

I don't know if they are a suitable fit, but Dorman has some wiper motor bushings in their HELP line. P/N 49450. Surely not as good of a fit as what 240Z Rubber has, but if you get stuck, you might be able to figure out a way to make these work?: https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-32473-49450.aspx

Ordered 140/240.

Jeff, music's definitely better. That stripper is messy stuff.

Transmission Fluid 70-76 Man 1.5 litres 3.13 pints 77-83 Man 1.7 litres 3.63 pints 70-83 Auto 5.5 litres 11.75pints Engine Oil 70-78 4.7 litres 5 quarts 79-83 4.5 litres 4.75 quarts (turbo is 5.5 quarts) Differential Oil 70-74 1 litre 2.13 pints 75-83 1.3 litres 2.75 pints Gasoline 70-74 60 litres 15 7/8gal 75-78 65 litres 17.25gal 79-83 80litres 21.12gal Coolant 70-73 9.9 litres 10.5 quarts 74-75 9.4 litres 10 quarts 76-78 10.4 litres 11 quarts 79-83 10.5 litres 11.12 quarts

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/ctd/d/1972-datsun-240z/6331164936.html Don't think I've ever seen those wheel covers. Unless they are aftermarket rims..