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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-Electronic-Fuel-Injection-Analyzer-Kent-Moore-J-25400-/272599728744?hash=item3f7835c268:g:rhAAAOSwuxFY0b8l Maybe we should group buy it for him? And another interesting piece of kit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1974-1979-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-Transistor-Ignition-Tester-Kent-Moore-J-26350-/272599730588?hash=item3f7835c99c:g:oHYAAOSwol5Y0b~R

Scrolling through forum topics and this juxtaposition caught my eye

Absolutely, E-bay has eyes! Like our microwaves.

Need to find a 5 speed transmission for my 71 Z. Since I changed out the diff to a 3.90, I have been wanting a new transmission to get my highway cruising speed up. I suppose any 5 speed will do, but a close ratio would be great.

going to share my rack re-build here for anyone that is interested first I disassembled the rack, ( well documented in the FSM and here ) , then I assessed the condition of all the major pieces 1) the inner tire rods were good and tight with no real play 2) the rack end bushings were mixed , the drivers side showed significant play, but the passenger side was tight. 3) the pinion bearings were shot, in fact the housing was partially full of water so then I tried to source parts, the standards stuff was available, I ordered rack mount bushings ( rubber ) , bellows, and outer tie rods. however the internal parts, end bushings and bearings were not available. so I had figure out something I ordered bearings from mcmaster carr, that I think will work with a spacer.. the originals are angular contact ball bearings, 15mm id x 35 mm od x 12 mm thck. looking thru the mcmaster catalog I found https://www.mcmaster.com/#6680k13/=16kgt7i which are very similar, just need to make a 1mm spacer to make them wide enough. I measured the rack itself and it is 25mm, so I looked for the bronze bushings that might fit, could not measure the OD of originals before I got them out but they were around 1.125" . the closest thing I found was http://asbbearingsonline.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=103_105_109 so I ordered 2 z90-2530 Last night I replaced the drivers side rack end bushing. could not get the sleeve bushing to come out with my harbor freight id puller, so I ended up cutting it lengthwise with a hacksaw blade ( almost all the way thru ) and then it pulled easy. I measured the remaining bore in the rack as 1.124" ID. the bushing OD measured 1.185" or so, so to the lathe ! the hard part of most projects like this is how do you hold the part ? luckily I had bought some expanding collets. so I started by machining it to the .984" diameter of the bushing then I put the bushing on it, expanded the mandrel , and turned the bushing OD to 1.125 giving me .001 of press fit. After pressing in to the rack housing, ( using the collet and a hammer.. plus a little torch heat on the housing ) the ID of the bushing had shrunk a bit, so I had to hone it with a brake hone. So after a 30 mins of honing and test fitting, I got the rack to slide smoothly in the housing with no detectable free play NIce! next I will work o the pinion bearings and see if I can make them work.

Pretty important. The OHC throw a LOT of oil spray into the interior of the VC. Without the baffle it can be sucked into the Intake manifold via the PCV system when you go WOT. PCV system reverses airflow at WOT. More important on EFI engines where VC vent is routed back into Intake tract. Carbed cars will just blort it out at the end of the vent line. May cause increased oil consumption on both types of cars... Edit: It's actually a very well designed baffle system. I've Autocrossed for decades. Datsun L seriers never have an oil consumption problem due to top end oil being sucked through the PCV system. Older domestic V8's have a big problem though. You really have to think hard about the VC venting, catch can and PCV design to solve that issue. Interesting to note that GM has been using centrifugal oil separators for some time on their LS motors. You will see these on a fair number of BMW's and Mercedes engines. The Mann Hummel Provent oil separator is becoming very popular with the Forced induction crowd. Has a built in valve to control air flow under boost: https://store.034motorsport.com/catch-can-air-oil-separator-provent-200.html https://www.mann-hummel.com/fileadmin/user_upload/service/catalogues/pdf/ProVent_en_2013.pdf

Thanks rcb. I just went to the site and had to hop off....kept finding other things to buy....I will get the fusible links and caps though. And she is pretty much original....Basically, a barn find with my son the third owner! A local car and the second owner knows the first...Even came with the original documents so that is fun. And the valve train noise is really not that bad. I have been a lurker here on the site for several months while my son and I have worked on his Z and seen many of the stories of difficult running cars. We have not had that many issues really. She ran very rough at first ....not really driven at all for over 20 years....but after a couple of bottles of seafoam in the gas tank, and a cleaned out tank...things really improved. (still, some rust coming from the tank, though). Then as she was driven the hose lines that had not been under pressure for very long time started popping......so we replaced every fuel line and every vacuum line, plus new injectors (came with the car), starter, alternator, and added a K&N Cone air filter. Just completed the valve adjustment and it helped things a lot...May continue to refine this adjustment a bit. Fun times!

Looks good, really good. That's as nice of an engine bay as I've seen in awhile. Have fun driving that time capsule! When you get a chance try calling your Nissan dealer and see if they can still get these. I bought two about six years ago for about $5 each. Here's two on ebay for $20. They'll save you some headaches down the road. http://www.ebay.com/itm/240Z-260Z-280Z-FUSIBLE-LINK-COVERS-TWO-OEM-GENUINE-NISSAN/332000049036?_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3Dcf3907a4feaa4a6ea6afea83c603bb40%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D7%26sd%3D332000045273

Plucker, Awesome writeup so far and very timely as I have been working on the exact same project (in conjunction with Captain Obvious who has been a great help on this). My plan was to finish this up and do a similar writeup on the original thread that he started, but it looks like you might have beat me to the punch! In any case, a couple of questions for you. I too could not find appropriately sized end rack bushing sleeves and after numerous tries with units from McMaster and ASB, I ended up purchasing some raw bushing stock and had them machined by a local machine shop here in Austin (unfortunately I do not have my own lathe). However, I looked at the same bushing that you purchased from ASB (Z90-2530) but according to their specs the OD is 28mm which appeared to be too small for the OD of the rack housing which I measured to be approx 1.125" or 28.575mm (which seems to coincide with your measurements). But in your writeup, you indicated that the OD of the bushings you purchased were measured to be 1.185 inches which equates more to about 30mm. So was the bushing you purchased that oversized? Could you please elaborate? In addition, if you haven't already discovered, the bushing on the drivers side is actually shorter than the one on the passenger side. I believe this is the case so that the drivers side bushing does not interfere with the pinion mechanism once installed. As I recall 30 mm was too long so you may want to check this as well. Also I could not find the correct pinion bearing with the appropriate thickness. The best I could do was an 11mm think angular contact bearing that I purchased from VXB bearings (they have a great selection at prices that are much better than McMaster). I also stumbled on a rebuild thread on Hybrid Z from many years ago, and a number of posters ran into the same issues with these bearings. Turns out that one poster had discovered that an L6 valve spring seat was the exact size needed to provide the appropriate shim width and so I did some research and was able to purchase some from Nissan and sure enough they are correct and should work, although I am not yet at that part of the rebuild. In any case, look forward to your continued writeup as well as some clarification on the bearing you purchased from ASB. Mike.

Good tip. I used a Kroger Brand...Turned the cover a bit black but it buffed up ok with the skotch bright. Did not seal the cover, though. I will to pop it off in the future and do a really good job.....just want to drive it for a bit now....

I'm sure we can help with all of these issues. But first, what's our cut of the profit when we flip this baby? Chuck

14.9.....Eiji 14.35....I'm building a bigger motor.

Thanks guys. I have a full face organic cartridge respirator and I have the product sheets!

Probably too late but cheap walmart oven cleaner spray foam works great on those, inside and out.

Here's a brighter shot of mine, I'm a bit of a show off. 8^) $35 is what Zedy paid for his a few weeks ago. Mine are from 1972's sport package with the spoilers, dealer add on. And the original bumpers with the black rubber. In my signature picture I have the solid chrome bumpers from futofab.com, no rubber.

My seal slipped right on, the trouble was the side seals for me until @Diseazd offered his advice. Thanks again for it to. He said when you get the rear cap started down stop about an inch before the bottom. Push the side seals all the way down then finish tightening the caps bolts. Rear seal and sides are still available from Nissan. If you want the numbers let me know, I have all my receipts in a file. Here they are, crank seal #12279-2B500 $29 sides #12289-WO400 times 2 @$1.50 each

Bought my Z from a liscensed classic cars appraiser. OEM Not running Goes for $800 However once you get it running the value bumps to $1200. Thats for my '74 260z. I doubt there'd be much variance in the numbers Space_cowboy '74 260z