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I've never tried that. It's possible that a short case would break the ice. Might be best to find out what he drinks on the first trip and leverage your way in with beer (or whatever) on the second trip. Beware of establishing a precedent. As long as you keep coming back, he's getting free beer.

Hi, I found some photos of my original Z, 1971, Redwing. When I got her from the dealer, she had 7 miles on the odometer. I was scared to death to driver her home after dark, I had never driven anything with any power. I'd had a VW bus! And the radio was playing the song "D.O.A". Anyone remember it? That was scary in itself. Needless to say, I got over that quickly, with my beautiful car. The color one was before we left, of her sitting right by the front to door, grinning in delight, anticipating the trip. And the black & white photos were when we (my son & myself) were camping. And yes, I packed all our camping equipment in her deck. I drove to Mt. Washington in N.H., where we climbed the mountain, the highest peak in the eastern U.S., 6,288 feet. Amazing trip travelling on the Blue Ridge Parkway for a lot of the trip, with all those curves! Oh yes, I zoomed her all the way. Wheee... Thought you all might get a kick out of seeing these. Jai

Yup. That's what I was thinking. BUT if one did score a lot of parts and sold a few, the beer could be a business expense. Even a years worth of beer (or whatever) would be a minor expense when compared to the value of trailers full of parts. Especially anywhere east of the Rocky Mts. BTW, I had been fairly successful in ignoring the "voices" lately. This conversation has brought forth yet another bout of SchiZophrenia in me. I do miss the thrill of seeking Z treasure.

I'm glad I read this completely, I thought we were going to build trust and then take him out and get him drunk.

I like the way you think.

Show up with a camera crew and a piece of paper that says you buy stuff. Works on television.

Having some past success with this type of challenge, I've found that it's a two step process. The first is building trust, common ground and friendship, if possible. The usual hoarder has been harassed by family, neighbors, city and the county. In spite of all that , he holds on to his goodies. Understand that he has an emotional attachment to his collection. Very few people have ever admired his collection. That's the key. Don't mention buying anything at this point in time but finding out if there's anything he needs is always a good idea. Money doesn't usually have much influence on hoarders. You're there to admire his collection and listen to him share all his plans for everything he has. No need to remind him that five lifetimes wouldn't be enough. He knows that. You will also want to share your projects with him too. He'll start to see your need for parts before you bring it up. Second step is to get him to understand that he would feel good seeing some of his stash on the road. Use his emotional attachment in your favor. Money may have some influence on this but it usually isn't the deciding factor. He has to FEEL that his parts will be going to a better home than he can provide. He also deep down is afraid that all his stash will be tossed upon his demise and he doesn't want that to happen. The situation is similar to owning a valuable (to me, anyway) part that I don't want to get rid of but if a friend needed it I'd let him have it. Don't rush either of these two steps. Deal in truth. Trust and friendship must be built up to have success. I wish I lived closer and could join the "bring out your dead" team. I love looking at collections of "vintage tin" and talking with the collectors. Best of luck.

Guy you are as steadfast as a mountain. My spoiler is the same color as the car. But I am going to try that 240Z door pinstripe (if you mean the purple pinstripe, yuck that is never coming back!). I am also getting new door cards for the interior and redoing all my external badges. I am at that point where next to a paint job, their is not much left to do that will have a noticeable improvement. Having said that I am working with Dave Irwin and we are getting all my turn stalks/ hazard switches/ combo switches redone. I am chasing a weird right rear blinker thing. The more I tear into the car inspecting wiring, the more I add to my punch list. I like to try new things with my car. I cannot help it. I am also going to get some euro bumpers and put them on their as well, and maybe even spring for some original OEM Datsun fogs (995 dollars gulp!). If I ever find a set of head light covers, I have 2 grand stashed for those as well. Just need to get lucky. I already sold the black Konigs, they are going to a very cool new 280Z owner who is getting his build finished.

Zedy.....Like I said before....several times.....IMO your car was perfect with the Panasports to start with....you got rid of the pinstripe (good move).....now, paint the rear spoiler the same color as the car, don't put the lower stripe on it, and just keep your tires clean and dressed.....PERFECT!! No charge for the advice. Kinda like this.

Siteunseen, thanks for pics of heat sheild. I am doing a once over with my friend on Sunday morning. Still need to install pcv pipe and bleed brakes and clutch. Then we will see how well we put it back together. I want to go back and redo a few things once its running again... I may look into the silicone hose Chickenman spoke of. I have a few parts I may take off and replace just to freshen up or shoot with some paint. I am tracking down a few factory engine bay stickers right now for a little extra detail. I think in the end I saw the project through as much as I had hoped to. My one weakness I would say is the intake manifold, I cleaned it best I could for having fuel rail and everything still attatched to it. It was super tough to clean. I also want to say for anyone doing exhaust in the future, the MSA premium exhaust system is top notch! I installed it by myself in a little over an hour and it fits perfect on a 75. I bolted up the 2 pipes together on the floor, zip tied the back pipe up to the control arm while attatched to my MSA 6 to 1 header. I knew ahead of time the muffler would be on an angle thanks to threads I found on this site. So I fitted the muffler to where I wanted it and started clamping, easy peasy! Here are the last of the pics, hopefully my pooches won't tell anyone how many times the diff was in and out of the car fighting that r180 mustache bar. I'm also hoping the left over bolts in the drawer aren't needed. THANKYOU EVERYONE FOR ALL YOUR RESPONSES TO MY PROJECT THREAD, WHAT A GREAT HELP YOU ALL ARE!! I HOPE THIS WILL HELP SOMEONE ELSE IN THE FUTURE LIKE ME (NON MECHANIC) COMPLETE A SUSPENSION PROJECT.

Love him! He has grown up to a very handsome boy!.....

They are calibrated for different flow rates for different engines. But I don't think it really matters a lot on modified cars. Just as long as you are reasonably close. Carbed cars can easily adjust the idle mixture to compensate for a little more or little less flow. PCV operation at idle speed has the most affect on vacuum flow. 280Z/ZX EFI cars sometimes need a bit of tweaking at the air bypass screw on the AFM if a different flowing PCV valve is installed . Modern feed back EFI systems with WB O2 sensors adjust on the Fly. Edit: Different calibrations probably have more to do with emissions control figures than anything else. Those have to be bang on. Just an FYI. A number of big boost Audi and VW engines, at Vortex/VW forum, are now experimenting using Datsun 280ZX Turbo PCV valves. The factory Audi/VW 1.8T OCV system post 2000 is overly complicated with a lot of plastic parts in the PCV system. Including the PCV valve itself. These plastic parts often crack and fail with heat. The 280ZX Turbo PCV valve is nearly indestructible. It can be plumbed into a modified system and works much better than stock. The Turbo PCV valve also has a silicone " flapper seal ". The silicone seal is needed on boosted cars , so as to not pressurize the cranckcase under boost. Under boost, a secondary venting system ( utilizing factory design ) is used that bypasses the PCV valve. So far the 280ZX Turbo PCV valve has worked very well.

If I were close by I would take those off your hands. Just do not like the flat black look. But, I would immediately paint them to match the rear finisher panel and clear coat. And never look back.

Hey Jai. I have that clutch kit in both my Zs and very satisfied with it's grip and release. It has everything needed, a complete kit 100%. The friction disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing and pilot bushing. Also an alignment tool which is very helpful when getting it all bolted up. I paid $40 for flywheel resurfacing. Luckily I had the extra money because it wasn't absolutely necessary. Pete can make the call once he sees yours. If you ride the clutch or burn them on hills with red lights he'll see the blueish color tell signs from heat. They need to be a little rough for the friction disc to be able to grab. Burnt flywheels are too slick from what I know and maybe suspect to slipping. I put that clutch on my first rebuild without researching, just the reviews I read on amazon.com. My second rebuild I installed a lightweight quick spin-up aluminum flywheel. I asked the forum's advice and Leon V, an automotive engineer, also recommended that kit. Exedy is an original equipment supplier for a bunch of car makes. I think you'll be very happy with it.

Exedy is a good brand of clutch. They are an OEM supplier to many car brands. Daiken is the parent company, have been around for a long time and they make very good products. When my engine was rebuilt the engine builder put in an Exedy OEM clutch kit. I was very pleased when I saw the Daiken manufacturing stamps. You should have no worries there. Edit: Daiken/Exedy clutch plates are a nice upgrade from the factory disc. Ventilated and with better materials than the stock disc. fair amount of metallic particles in the disc. This is good for longevity and they will take a lot of abuse.

Me, myself, and I. So there's 3!

Thank you. It has been a long year for sure. I would not recommend getting a complete rust bucket like I did ha but at the same time it makes you feel very accomplished.

My race car has a surge tank in each of the rear corners of the fuel cell. There are ball checks that allow the fuel to fill the surge tanks, then a each has its own fuel pump to move the fuel to a T, then a single line to the engine bay. There are check valves inline so if one runs low (as in cornering) the other won't pump fuel to it, but rather to the engine. Works great, never starves for fuel under any conditions. Well, except if one of the fuel pumps dies. Then the engine runs lean and pistons melt.

Correct (S30 type) emblem on left. Incorrect (S130 type) emblem on right. The 432 going to auction has the incorrect, flatter profile (and plastic...) S130 type bonnet emblem.

Perfect, thanks on the direction of spin. I think I'm going to finish the refresh put the suspension all back together in order to get the tie rod stable enough to get some leverage on it.

Get him to clear his crop into your mouth and you will be best buddy's.

Looks like normal Monday morning traffic in any city in the U.S. but with better drivers...

What I am saying is, yes the 280Z had longer and heavier oem rate springs so they would be different than the 240Z. But the Design was the same for both. Not different.

I would say denser coil count equates to higher spring rate

Sometimes when I was at the track back then... I didn't just take pictures of the cars!

All the pics of Paul Newman make me think what other star today is even close as passionate about racing... The only name that comes to mind is Patrick Dempsey. They sort of have that calm demeanor about them.

my aplogies! I did use your measurements and it was perfect! I'm sorry I came off as indifferent, the information and the image was right on target! sorry I didn't properly thank you, I guess I forgot (toomanymessageboardpostitis) if you were in Texas I'd buy you a cold one for sure!!!! BW