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In an effort to rid my car of exhaust fumes coming in I disassembled just about everything related to the hatch vent system and removed the taillight trim panel to see what the taillight gaskets looked like. The TL gaskets are shot so I will be ordering new gaskets for them. The hatch vents were removed at some point in the car's history and re-installed using rivets which has bugged be ever since I bought it. With everything apart I realize I am missing the U-shaped clips that hold they hatch ducts against the body and the barrel clips the actually hold the chrome vent grilles. I have a good idea what the U-shape clips look like but need some measurements if anyone has one sitting around. Additionally, can someone confirm the order in which everything goes together? I think the ducts are installed in the hatch with their proper seals, the U-clip goes over the inside edge to hold it in place. Does barrel clip go through the U-clip and in to the hatch sheet metal or some other way? On the hatch duct work, my semi-rigid seals are salvageable but the foam gaskets are pretty much gone. I was planning to use some 3/8 self adhesive foam weather stripping to make a new seal. Are new ones available? If not, do you have a better idea than I have? Need to look at the rubber flaps on the inner hatch panel, I don't think they are thick enough. I will also seal the edge of the panel before I re-install it. The offending rivets holding the hatch vents in place. I already have new ones but debating on re-using some old ones I have since I plan to paint the car and would like to save my new ones for that. Pictures from Jim Arnett on the CT Z Car forums. Taillight panel off. Looks like it has never been off the car. Luckily there appears to be zero damage from contact or rust.

Fine. Par it is...

I was just providing "alternative facts"....

HAHAHAH!!! I completely missed that! Just goes to show how the human mind provides closure! But after seeing the definition, I'll leave it to the author to determine if it was intentional or not. LOL!

http://page10.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/m188011442 http://page22.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/l373644247

I hope they are verrry ......"CAREUL" "careul": a Tunisian verb for altering or dismantling with primitive tools....

Hi. Not sure how to react to your request unless with questions which would seem to me to be more appropriate in another dedicated thread : who is being ripped off ? Which products ? Who are these 'others' duplicating other people's products ? Is this a big conspiracy ? Who sells genuine products ? Upon whose direct opinions have you based your request ? I have no affiliation with Zcardepot other than that they were willing to try out and list my products that I spoke about with other distributors : the other other who positively replied and with whom I do business is Dave Rebello. I negociated a member's club discount with Zcardepot and many customers in our French club have had an excellent person to person service which is something often lacking with the bigger retailers (no names) and any lost or damaged goods have been replaced - no quibbles One can only judge someone/thing by one's own experience and I've found Ryan to be a great guy, willing to listen to his clients.....one of the reasons why I do business with him and actively sought an 'association between Zcardepot and our club. Now, you and others may have had some negative experiences, it happens all the time but we are judged not by the problems but by how we solve them ! Matthew, we both obviously feel the same as far as thread-jacking is concerned but a non-qualified statement can't be left out there 'drying in the wind' or it becomes belived with no questionning. "I wasn't aware of this problem. I had assumed they were distributing for Sean rather than replicating his work." That is indeed the case as you can read from the above. "I contacted Zcardepot twice before ordering mine from Sean. They show them on their website but don't seem to stock them. Didn't have any headers or JDM mufflers. Plus really couldn't provide much in the way of information. Working with Sean was easy considering the time difference between Seattle and France. " 'cos I don't sleep ! For a while, the parts were out of stock and I believe Zcardepot works on a click and buy basis ? Since he couldn't garauntee to ship them, they were listed as unavailable. As producer, I know them inside out so for sure I can help with detailed questions* and also share the experiences from previous clients (I get feedback all the time) to which Ryan doesn't have access. I don't think that we're being fair to the Fujitsubo rear muffler when fitting to a 280Z - any muffler is going to show more than an earlier car in profile as can be seen with those of mine fitted.

Dear readers, sorry for the lack of updates during the last weeks. I was very busy with some other big things, one of them beeing marrying my wife Yesterday i got back to work in the garage. while it's still freezing cold outside i got some stuff done on the transmission. I found a local glass-bead blasting company and i'm preparing the transmission to be blasted soon. So i had to remove all bits and pieces: Shifter lever Bracket removed: Removed the shifter bushings from the brackets and had all laid-out: Removed the control arm springs and "plugs" Tried to remove this plug, but after trying hard and not beoing able to get it out, decided to leave it there for blasting Removed the oil filler plug And the speedo sensor (still in place here): Still need to figure out how to remove the speedo sensor complete, the plastic vents and then i'm ready to get it blasted

I can't remember ever having my wipers on but mine isn't a DD. I'll check the functionality next wash just in case.

I have a very simple trick to disable the coil. Run a wire from the cigarette lighter to the tiu and connect it to the wire goint to the coil. When you press the cig lighter, the coil trigger goes to ground through the lighter. If you are concerned with the lighter popping out over a long period of cranking then you can fill the lighter element with solder. No extra wires by the coil to indicate some kind of anti theft device and running a hot wire directly to the coil positive won't help them either. When I leave the car, I just simply push the cig lighter in.

^ Above comment about timing chain is very valid. Check the Chain timing and make sure it is correct. If it is, carry on testing. In addition to the above suggestions. 1: Do a compression test ASAP and post up the figures here. You want all cylinders within 15 PSI of each other. It will tell you a lot about the condition of the engine. Engine to operating temp. Disconnect primary leads at terminal connector on fender. That will disable injectors and ignition. Jam Throttle body wide open while cranking. Battery must be fully charged and ideally connected to a battery charger. 2: Do you still have a EGR valve on your engine? EGR valves are supposed to be fully closed at idle. A partially stuck open EGR valve can cause very rough running and sooty plugs. It doesn't take much for the EGR to cause rough running and spit back through the carbs. Old EGR valves tend to carbon up and won't seat closed all the way. It creates havoc with idle and low speed running. Even disconnecting the vacuum hose won't help if the shaft is stuck. The carbon and varnish buildup can physically prevent the valve from seating. Test the EGR valve off the car with a Mighty Vac. A block off plate for testing, temporarily eliminates the problem of a stuck EGR valve. EGR valves are useful though. They reduce emissions and reduce cylinder temps allowing more timing to be run at cruise. ( increases MPG while reducing chance of pinging ) But they must function properly.

Hello all. It is a dream come true as I have this exact exhaust system on order. I am looking forward to the install and I will keep everyone posted on fitment. It is going on my NA spec early 260z 2 seater. Fujitsubo just put this into production after showing it at the Tokyo auto salon. Ben

also, leaning towards not installing the fender flares... guy said he would have to cut into the body besides drilling the holes to mount it. have to remove the body flares that are already on it to properly install the flares. realllyyy feeling like not destroying that body. so if anyone needs fender flares, i got a set..

Dual system is just a waste . All that extra weight and the extra noise . All the pages of data I've read show without question that single exhaust is the best for power . Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

When the simple mundane five minute job turns into hours and hours of misery and frustration. Been there. Done that. When you spend two hours trying to pull the wheel speed sensor out of it's rusty hole in the suspension and still snap it off in the process. When it takes an hour to get the crushed, mangled, and screwdriver speared remains of an oil filter off the block. When it takes two days just to get a frikin dipstick tube out of the block because it cracks off at the bottom. When it takes a week to change your thermostat because the bolts snap off. You are not alone.