Leaderboard

Flashback to when the restoration program was in full swing: Source: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-1998-Datsun-240Z-Nissan-Brochure-mx583-14Y813-/290878018075?hash=item43b9ae521b:g:K0sAAOxyldpR-7w7

Or zKarsTheMan.

Jim needs to change his handle to zKarParts....

Go pallnet for the rail. Get the 11mm oring style and buy stock Cressida injectors (198cc) for similar stock performance but will allow you to swap them out easily later if you upgrade the ecu. Clean, upgradable and affordable.

By the way Jai, if you do any of the testing with the any of the coil wires or ignition be very careful. A leather or rubber glove is recommended they carry a lot of voltage and can be hazardous

Just placed my order for Sean's Header and exhaust system with the JDM muffler. He has been great to work with and I am looking forward the the shipment arrival in the next two weeks. Zcardepot was out of stock on the header and the JDM style muffler. Thanks Sean

Since its the easiest thing to do, just unplug the ECU 35 pin and then plug it back in. Key off of course. Never unplug with the power on.

Point gap should be .018" to .022". I prefer to go with larger figure with new points, as gap will decrease with rubbing block wear. If using a dwell meter, you want 35 to 41 degrees of dwell. More point gap = less Dwell angle. Important note: With new points always wipe a clean sheet of white paper through the closed points to remove any anti-rust coating. Wipe it a few times using just the closed point pressure until paper comes out clean. Failure to do this cleaning can result in the petroleum residue burning and result in a weak spark. An "Old School " teaching that may have not been passed down through generations. BTW, even with timing set correctly, a weak spark can cause backfiring through intake and exhaust.

my new chain kit came with a sprocket that does not the notch. iirc, it is a OSK brand. made in Japan.

I agree with Zed Head. That line inside the sprockets groove or anywhere close is a definite verify for TDC. It would save you from unneeded work. If you know you're going to rebuild the motor sooner or later go ahead and get the timing kit and use the sprocket for now. It looks to me your not far off. The motors are so easy to build and set up that whoever rebuilt it last most likely got it right and we are just missing something simple. I'll try to find my OE sprocket tomorrow and measure the grooves location, then hopefully you can get close lining up the line in the grooves location.

I remembered some past comments about sprockets that didn't have a notch. I thought that they were Cloyes brand so I searched around and found a comment on Amazon about the S462, which is the L6 sprocket. The comment doesn't support that it was Cloyes but does mention that he had a sprocket with no notch. So they are out there. Probably just an oversight or a manufacturing mistake. The sprocket is fairly easy to replace (if you don't drop the chain). If you have a used one with the notch, it might be worth a few minutes to swap them out, just to see.