Leaderboard

Good job Blue......nice illustrations!

I think that what's really going on here is that there are a few people who feel a bit lonely that other people don't appreciate the value of what they have. Everyone agrees that you can't define value for other people. You just can't, it's up to the individual. fF a person doesn't like something that's their prerogative. But this whole thread is an attempt to sway other people's opinions. But it's having the opposite of the intended effect. Calling somebody a dimwit because they don't feel the way that you do is like calling someone an idiot because their favorite color is different from yours, or because they don't like tea. It's irrational.

Really, it's just that I called out somebody for name-calling yet the name-calling is still there. And the point of the thread (this is on-topic) was to have a little bit of fun with incomprehensible valuations. Who really understands being able to spend $225,000 on a single car? It started out as fun and went south with one single post. Let's be clear.

Mike, people have seen my posts, the ones you keep deleting. Why do you keep deleting my rational logical statements but leave HS30's name-calling "dimwit" post? You keep saying that you're unbiased but then you keep biasing your editing. Just explain it one time on the public forum so that we all understand what's going on. You're not making sense. How is what I post different from what HS30 is posting? One simple explanation will do. I don't get it.

Back from vacation and looked through my photos of the RC wiring. When I mention POWER in the photos it's 13.6 vdc . Also, this is the wiring colors for the original OEM osc, harness, and motor. The color stripe on the wires match up with the same solid color wire on the osc connector. The exception to this is that the signal wires , White and Yellow, can be interchanged. ie: white strip can connect to the solid yellow wire and visa versa. The signals can a be reversed and not cause a problem. Let me know if you have any questions on the photos.

I wouldn’t be ready to condemn the BCDD quite yet, and I am confused by a couple things in your original post... First thing is that there is only one externally visible connection to the BCDD, and that is an electrical one. There are a couple vacuum connections made to the BCDD, but none of them are externally visible. They are all made internally to the throttle body and are not visible without peering into the throat of the throttle body. So when you say "the BCDD was disconnected and lines running to and away from it were blocked off", if you're talking about some vacuum lines being capped... Those vacuum lines originate from the throttle body, but despite how close in proximity they are to the BCDD, neither of them have anything to do with it. One of those vacuum lines should be connected to your distributor and carbon canister, and the other vacuum line is used for the EGR system. So if you're having troubles after messing with those vacuum lines, it's not the BCDD's problem. If you are talking about the electrical connection to the BCDD, that connection is a kind of "dead man switch" such that when that wire supplies power to the BCDD, the BCDD is deactivated and should have no impact. But if that wire was disconnected, your BCDD was active at all times. Second thing is about you hearing a vacuum leak after you turn the car off... As soon as the engine stops turning, the manifold vacuum goes away, and there are two places where that vacuum is "stored" while the engine isn't running. Those two places are in the HVAC system, and in the power brake booster. Both of those systems should have a check valve in series with them to prevent that vacuum from bleeding off, but I'd start looking there.

It has been a while, i know. I'm still working on a few big things which need their time but you'll see But i have some good news: 1) I had my original 5-speed transmission checked by a Pro. Aside from new seals and stuff it seems to be in outstanding condition and doesn't need a big rebuild. I'll keep the original one and sell the spare S14 transmission i secured a while ago. But don't ask me i already have a buyer 2) I got an update from the bodyshop on friday and hopefully more will follow soon - The sandblasted and primered Battery tray got welded back in again (not completed yet): And the finished area of the car got coated to be proteced from rust.

yes. go for it

getting a few little odds and ends done. took the tail-light surrounds in for powder-coating. very tight wrinkle finish in flat black. i like it anyone know what this hole is for? there is one directly behind it also. i got the valve cover painted today. it came out looking pretty good. VHT wrinkle finish paint, and a redneck oven bake took about 2 hours. i didnt have an oven big enough for the cover, so why not put the oven under the valve cover! what ever works...... end result new fuel pump block-off plate from 1/4'" aluminum ready for powder-coating

He speaks for me and everybody that owns EFI cars plus 95% of the forum. Just not you and "Her Majesty" the queen. His views are none of my business but all the money he has saved me and thousands of other people just by being a kind and helpful person with his Tech Tips is something I'm waiting on you to do. As long as I've been active here I cannot recall a single positive post from you.

Value is in the eye of the beholder. The only reason to call somebody a dimwit, implying that you are smarter than they are, is because you are insecure about your own opinions. Instead of arguing the point, you make an ad hominem attack on the person. It's a form of weakness, in mind and personality. Explain why the car is more valuable to you, and leave the personal comments out. Show some knowledge instead of pretending that you know something. Show us that you're actually an intellectual and not a pretender. It's easy for people who really know what they believe, difficult for people who just want to feel superior. And for you Mike, this not abusive behavior. I know you like to please the guys who actually own "classics" but you'll end up with a 5 person club if you're not careful. Not a lot of sell-through from those guys either, they probably don't shop on the internet.

You can download the Fuel Injection Manual here . There is also A factory service manual there also. Both very much recommended for this and future adventures.

For our American Z-car friends, you have no idea how much more expensive it is to have a 'car habit' when you live outside of the USA. We never get access to those 'free shipping' specials that those of you who live inside the USA enjoy and we get absolutely killed by FedEx and UPS brokerage fees when parts come across the border. Add to this customs duties and local sales taxes and -- here in Canada, anyway -- you can pretty much take any advertised price for a part from a USA vendor and add over 50% to figure out what the delivered cost will be. As an example, the premium that I paid over vendor's list price for a set of Wesco seat belts was 68%. And then there's the currency exchange. But that's another story.

The off set tie rods came in from TTT, they look very pretty, going to install tomorrow and then do some more bumpsteer measurements The new chromed bumpers also came in from Futofab, very pleased with them, they are flawless and were well pakaged, a great company to deal with. FEDEX absolutely raped me on the shipping costs, I don't even want to say how much but, the bumpers are perfect.

My phones been chirping all night. Just figured out why. I mistakenly hit the "notify me of replies" when I hit the "submit reply" button. I'll have to more careful when I'm using my phone. Fat fingers!