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These pictures were all uploaded in an odd order, even though I selected "Original Filename order". But either way, the slightly darker panels are from #00182. The really light panels are from the refinished set. And the ones that resemble the darker ones are from #01606, which is the car you guys have seen me post about. The spare wheel with the white band (now yellow from age) is from #07214, the wheel that is very clean is the "NOS Spare" that's never been used. Whether that is truly the case or not, I will never know. But I can confirm that the spare on #07214 has never had the wheel refinished, and the NOS Spare colour is very close, so that alone is a good indicator for me. I deem it impossible for tail light panels to wear to the point where they are DARKER than they originally would have been considering the Hub Caps / Wheel Covers get lighter as they age (and that's the colour that everyone says the tail light panels are supposed to be, apparently). So with that in mind, I personally conclude that the TOPY Wheel colour is the original Tail Light Panel colour, and that's what I've documented, with even more samples than you see posted here, and I'm stickin' wid it. Will post more as soon as I get time so you guys can get a better idea! Hope this helps anyone on the fence about the colour of these items!

Thanks @siteunseen and @psdenno for the nice comments. Also just want to mention that the DC color Dark Shadow Gray does have a small amount of fine metallic that can be seen in the sun, but after I applied the matte clear it is virtually unnoticeable.

Here is a modded ring with Eastwood's "Reflective Chrome" powder coat. It's pretty darn shiny! If I spent more time pre-buffing the raw metal, this would be darn purdy! This was done with just sand blast then medium wire wheel buff. Goes real nice with the chrome locking cap!

No problem either way. I eventually get used to things once they change. It just takes me longer and longer every year

Looks NOS! Nice find and thanks for sharing. That project is on my short list. Dennis

I'm almost positive anything built during or after September of a year is considered the "new year model". My '77 was built in 09/76. But I'm no expert on history and facts of these cars, just what I read.

As much as I understand, a 12/77 manufacturing date would be a 1978 model year car.

Thank god I'm not the only fool who bought that BMW cap. What a scam! Yes, it "locks", yes it "fits", just doesn't lock to the car.... Man. However, I just pulled it out of it's hidey hole, and grapped a gas filler opening ring to understand how this looks and why it doesn't lock.. I may see a way to modify the ring so these caps actually lock.. Give me a day or two to fiddle....

Site, next time your tromping through that JY keep an eye out for a 81-83 diesel maxima for me, yeah? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's the 75-76 280Z tanks that are the hot item. They fit the 240Z's. The 77-78 tanks have the space-saver tire shape.

From the recent Sonoma Historic Motorsport event. Still enjoying a few hot laps.

Agreed! If you want to keep the "stock" or "original" look of your radiator - just have it re-cored with the 3 or 4 row core, keeping your original top tank with the finger guard and bottom tank. All that said - the most effective items I've found to reduce engine operating temps. here in Florida are; 1) changing to synthetic oil and 2) adding Redline "Water Wetter" to the coolant. FWIW, Carl B.

If your radiator has the little "finger guard" or "safety guard" it is most likely the original radiator. Most the after market replacements don't have them. As I recall Nissan called it a "splash guard", which might give some indication of it's original purpose. It didn't seem to provide any noticable effect on cooling on any of the 240Z's I have them on. No - you don't need it for everyday driving. FWIW, Carl B.

Thanks guys, My 72 has the small "hood" shroud like the one shown. It does not have the belly pan though. Is the belly pan really needed for everyday driving? DT