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Zed Head
Free Member6Points19,228Posts -
Captain Obvious
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GeoJoe1
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kats
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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/07/2016 in all areas
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Here's an update of the choke assembly with a throttle knob and lever added.
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1 pointI don't want this car as much as I do the garage space. I've taken some pictures but my batteries are dead now and charging so I'll put some more up tomorrow but help me figure out a fair price please. Car runs great, don't know the compression yet but I'll check it and post that too. It's been in storage for 6 months and I got used to walking around my garage without hitting rearview mirrors. Odometer shows 23 thousand and some change, I'd say it's 123 thousand judging by the rubber on the pedals. It has A/C installed but not working, heater core was bypassed when I bought it so I don't know what's up with that. It has had a shi**y respray, flaking off around the edges of the hatch and hood. Help me please! I'm not gonna give it away but I'm not wanting to make a fool of myself by asking some unreasonable price so any opinions would be great. I've got the orange one that I like better so I'm selling this one. It would be a good car to restore. Thanks for looking, Cliff
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1 pointAlberta car Manuf. in '69 S/N 00072, Engine L24 2192. Missing: original carbs, transmission, original steering wheel, bumpers. Seats. Rear brackets have been modified for Jeep bumperettes. Added: 3 piece rear spoiler, louvres, front air dam, 2nd rear hatch piston. Everything else original including engine. I have all the original pieces, markings, etc Metal all very good. Many extra/duplicate parts, (Quikor front swaybar and 2+2 rear swaybar). Rear glass is clear. Front dash has no cracks. Garaged since '86. Other than front glass being attached, the car is stripped and ready for final pre-paint touch ups.
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1 pointWhat are you using for the work, and how? A drill press maybe, with a template? Or something more sophisticated? I've heard that some of the older flanges can get out of true over time and use. You might check run-out and fix it while they're off and the lugs are out. Could save you future balance problems. It can be especially problematic for disc brake swaps since they're more sensitive to run-out, if you're planning that in the long run.1 point
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1 pointPeople can call me at 416 2019564 I am not a Z purist. I bought the car cause it was a first run model and I wanted to tweak its performance a bit. I loved the styling except for the dinky bumpers. The side 240z insignia are instantly recognizable as a "70 model year. That's the ticket. I sincerely doubt that anything except the dash was replaced for the pristine 00060 vin. I assume he previous owner was just lazy and found it easier to stick those engine compartment an door jamb plates on. Still, it is what it is. And it's obviously rare.1 point
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I have toyed with the idea of putting a 72 console in my car. As they can be had more readily and in good shape than the 70-71 center console. But I just cannot abandon how OEM my interior is right now. Right now I am deep into my roadster dash redo. So after that the Z gets another turn for more freshening.1 point
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1 pointI have the door jamb plate and the dash Vin Both Were s/n 00060 and engine # 2215 This is how I bought the car in '83 I suspect the car # 00060 was wrecked and the prev owner bought its pristine dash. I did not know that the actual stamp on the firewall had a 00072 number Engine compartment plate matches the #60 with a '69 production year although I need to rummage through some boxes to find it- I am waiting for warmer weather. When I bought it, there was no evidence that the identification plates were changed or tampered with. In any case, 060 or 072 its still a 69 year with original 69 parts as listed. Any reasonable offer... I want to sell it no later that May. I would say not many project cars in this shape and from '69 are left out there...price accordingly. It's a gem, ready to transform into a rare diamond. Cheers, Chris1 point
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I just got the information from BRE in their Tribute Car Program. It is pretty much as I described above. For a nominal fee you, as an individual, are granted a limited license to apply their color scheme, logos, etc to your car. This preserves their copyrights against commercial challenges of abandonment. Besides being right with the law - and doing right by BRE - you get specific details on colors, stripe dimensions, etc. You also get two decals indicating your official membership in their Tribute Car Program along with a certificate signed by Peter Brock.1 point
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1 pointThose jumpers look correct for the switching over to the internally regulated alternator. The blue wire that goes to the charge lamp should be jumpered to the white/black wire that goes to the "L" terminal on the alternator. And the white/red wire that is tied into the alternator output voltage should be jumpered to the yellow wire that goes to the "S" terminal of the new alternator. If you want details of exactly what you are doing by making those connections, let me know and I can go through the theory. And Zed, You're right. I sped across the wiring diagram too quickly and got two wires crossed. The most disappointing part about that whole brake warning discussion is that we've hashed it all out already when we were talking about alternator excitation currents through the field coil: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51963-internally-regulated-alternator-trivia-bootstrap-current/?page=1 My older friends tell me that memory fading will only increase with age....1 point
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1 pointMake sure you post plenty of pictures so the rest of us can enjoy.1 point
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1 pointFortunately for me, the problem was fixed by correcting my first suspicion. However, Cliff (@siteunseen) & Bruce (@Captain Obvious) gave me the input I needed in order to have a path to keep looking in case my first suspect wasn't the root cause. Thanks, guys.1 point
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1 pointTools and books This 240ZG came with all the tools and books , I can see the paper has a stamp dated " 47 . 6 . 15" means 15th Jun 1972. And the screw driver is a reversible type, and a wood grip! I will show inside of the books , invoices, and a highlight is an owners memo which was recoded for his questions / complains / wants etc. Kats
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Here are some pics of the valve cover after vapor blasting. Very time consuming and tiring process. It was more satisfying and easier doing the balance tube or any heavy grain casting vs a smoother surface like the valve cover. However, i'm very happy with the outcome and I think it looks very clean. I might coat it with Shark hide to protect it, but for now i'm glad I did it.
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1 pointHi hr369, Please let me know when you come to Japan. My Z432 and Orange 240Z has been displayed in a old car museum in Osaka, I hope I can bring my Z432 for a ride. Kats
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1 pointSorry, I'm not on my full keyboard, so I'm trying to type as few words as I can. You're right and I've removed the incorrect info to prevent confusion for people reading this in the future. And you're right again... We're off target at this point. Alternator it is.1 point
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1 pointReread your post here and I think the incongruence is on the intent or the description of the intent by Nissan. Whether they intended it to show that the engine is running with the key on, or not, it does do that. As long as the brake lever is down. If the engine is running and it dies on you, the red brake light catches your eye pretty quickly. Alright, back to The Swede's issue. The alternator swap.1 point
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1 pointThe light goes on when the key is turned On, right? That's the "check" function. Then when the engine starts, it goes off. Pretty sure that's the same for all of them. Otherwise the light stays on all the time, or it never "checks".. So, key on/engine running = no light, key on/engine stopped = light. Multi-function. Maybe you're saying that 77 gets its brake check warning lamp relay power from somewhere else? I was just commenting on the function of the light. I powered my light from the fuel pump power so I have the original function plus my bonus function.1 point
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1 pointJust thought of the other function of that light, the one that I've mainly used it for - ignition switch is on. Or - what happened? Oh, the light's on, the engine must have quit.1 point
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1 pointI experienced the same symptoms once. Car wouldn't go over 45mph on flat ground. Less on a hill but would rev to 6000 rpm just fine. A partially clogged filter was the culprit. The engine uses a lot more fuel under load.1 point
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Here is a link to the sale. I spent days on this one. The spokes were stripped to metal, primed, sanded, painted. The rim got scrubbed, bleached, sanded, stained, four coats of clear, lots of sanding in between, I ran out of nice horn pads so I am including a brand new reproduction horn pad. Have a look, it sure came out pretty. http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/331796135203?1 point
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1 pointThis is why we don't past after midnight. Captain's right, it's just a bulb check relay. I'm usually the one that rights out all the words for that thing too... For a small function, it has a lot of design effort in it, and can cause fairly significant problems. It's a weird little sub-system.1 point
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1 pointHi everyone, I want to put some new things but I can not spent much time in front of my laptop. I will talk about a Fairlady 240ZG. Bits and pieces, differences from other S30s. Kats
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1 pointI disconnected my '77's under the passenger's seat. Works when the E-brake is pulled only, like The Good Captain says.1 point
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1 pointTwo guys I look to for inspiration, suffering the same as me, vicariously getting our Z fix through a computer screen. When you find that "energy", let me know what to ask for. I'm not cool anymore.1 point
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1 pointNote that the below has been edited to fix incorrect information: Depending on the year, they changed the way that "brake warning lamp check relay" is implemented, but all the brake warning relay does is 1) test the functionality of the brake warning bulb in the speedo before the engine is started, and 2) and warn you that you have lost power brake vacuum in the event that the engine has stalled. Your brake lamp will still light up just fine when you pull the emergency brake, and it will also still light up if the hydraulic brake indicator switch detects a fault in the braking system. All they were trying to do with that relay is provide you with a short term temporary "lamp test" mode that would allow you to verify that the warning indicators actually worked if necessary and warn you if you lost power brakes. I disconnected mine a while ago, and since I always pull the E-brake when I park, my bulb gets tested for functionality every time I pull the handle. As for your alternator connections, you're OK with that now, right?1 point
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1 pointNo harm, besides maybe driving around with your parking brake on. I've generally thought that its other function, of showing a brake pressure imbalance, was kind of worthless. It shows up in the brake pedal anyway.1 point
