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Tomorrow will be 2 weeks since RedBird got her new/old ECU installed. I am very happy to report that she is running perfectly well. No exhaust smoke, no chugging/loss of power, no stalling, no refusing to start, no problems at all. Just a sweet lil kitten purring on down the road. I don't even tune into my stiff, stay alert mode for problems. Driving along as normal as can be for the both of us, what a relaxing pleasure!!! Wanted to keep you posted, we made it to the fun part! Thank you all... Jai.

Cliff, I tend to agree with you, several years ago I would have said $2-3k but now a days I see basket case "junkers" bringing that and cars like yours bringing $7-9k. I would say $7k is a reasonable price in todays market, I might even try a little higher $7,800 or so and negotiate from there. The ebay car has lots of great documentation but no pictures of the rear hatch lip or under the battery tray. It has rust in the doglegs, so I would suspect rust in other areas too. Your doors are a little worse off but they are not cost prohibitive. The ebay car is at $15,300 with 2 days to go. In the answered questions he points out the mileage at 128,000... your car is a desirable color with a neat interior, a new coat of paint and some rust repair and it would easily bring mid teens IMO...heres to success

Here is a link to the sale. I spent days on this one. The spokes were stripped to metal, primed, sanded, painted. The rim got scrubbed, bleached, sanded, stained, four coats of clear, lots of sanding in between, I ran out of nice horn pads so I am including a brand new reproduction horn pad. Have a look, it sure came out pretty. http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/331796135203?

Don't you just call it "cheese"?

I think we all have those "I just want to get in the Z and drive without having to fix something, again" days...or weeks....or years. Kind of explains those Barn Find Zs that turn up from time to time. Be strong! Dennis

Last friday i spent a visit at the Bodyshop. Mainly to bring him the Passenger side door so he could check fitment after he's done with welding in that area (some parts may have moved a bit and need adjustment). I also asked him to close the original door mirror holes in the door as i will switch to the JDM Fender mirrors And i had to bring him some cash as well And then i have some good and bad news. The good news is that work in the front right (passenger) sode is almost completed and the work looks fabulous. To the untrained eye it may look a bit patchy but after everything is primered and has the same colour it's almost factory-work - maybe even better since factory welding from datsun was really crappy in some areas Now the bad news. Specially in the passenger area behind the seat there has been copious amount of cheap patchwork repairs and way more rust underneath every panel which was removed, than initially expected. So well - yeah. the whole thing will be a bit more expensive and take maybe another two years at the bodyshop until completed.. but i'm still happy with the fact i will save one of these fairladies... Inner wheel well has been removed and he's currently fitting the new one from tabco.. Also the old sparewheel well has been cut out and the new one placed inside just to save some space. hasn't been welded yet... The car looks a bit like a swiss cheese currently Here's a good example. I wouldn't have noticed but as the bodyshop explained and showed me the patchwork under the gas filler thingy i understoud where there has been cheap repairs in the past. so this one has to go out as well and fixed nicely... many small bits which will take up a lot of work at the end... Anyhow, looking forward for updates. And while i was there i also ahd a look at this almost finnished (has been in the works there for a while now as well!), Toyota KE70 Corolla "Kesser Sport spezial". This was a swiss homologation special as far as i understoud (wasn't able to find anything about it on the web..) in all it's early 80ies boxyness. Love it and i'm pretty sure this will be a rare gem once completed!

Woohoo, thats great news. Hope we aren't celebrating too early though. Just the pessimistic side of me this morning . Give it a few more miles. However, if it wasn't going to work it should have showed that right away. So now for the optimistic side, looks like your ecu was defective and all is well now. Haha! Love good news!

When Momma's happy, everybody is happy! Great ending thanks to the forum. Rob, hat's off to you for the ecu.

Goodbye old problems. We'll miss you...

NADA Collector Guides Original MSRP Low Retail Average Retail High Retail Base Price $4,106 $7,925 $18,100 $31,600 TOTAL PRICE: $4,106 $7,925 $18,100 $31,600 Hemmings motor news The avg asking price is: $18,747 The highest is: $69,900 The lowest is: $5,950 Hagerty: #1 $50,500 #2 $32,500 #3 $15,800 vehicles could possess some, but not all of the issues of a #4 vehicle, but they will be balanced by other factors such as a fresh paint job or a new, correct interior where applicable. #3 vehicles drive and run well, but might have some incorrect parts. These vehicles are not used for daily transportation but are ready for a long tour without excuses, and the casual passerby will not find any visual flaws. "Good" is the one word description of a #3 vehicle. #4 $7,100 vehicles are daily drivers, with flaws visible to the naked eye. The chrome might have pitting or scratches, the windshield might be chipped. Paintwork is imperfect, and perhaps the body has a minor dent. Split seams or a cracked dash, where applicable, might be present. No major parts are missing, but the wheels could differ from the originals, or other non- stock additions might be present. A #4 vehicle can also be a deteriorated restoration. "Fair" is the one word that describes a #4 vehicle. Collector Car Market Guide (their numbers seem to be lagging some but the AC add is a good tip) 1972 DATSUN 240Z 6cyl 2393cc (129hp SAE) 4M #5 #4 #3 #2 #1 Coupe 1250 3775 9125 14725 24300 Add: Air conditioning 5% Deduct: Automatic transmission -15%

Always new gaskets. Unless you like doing the job twice...

The external regulator also routes power to the L terminal and contains the S wire connection. That's what the rewiring is for, in the AtlanticZ writeup. I would follow the AtlanticZ writeup, there are others out there that might disable your brake warning lamp relay. I did this work on my 76 and if I was doing it again, I would just cut the plug from the old bad external regulator (leave a good amount of wire to work with, crimp the relevant wires together there, cover them with heat shrink tubing, and then plug it back in. Nice, clean, weatherproof. Don't forget to put the tubing on before the crimping. Soldering would work also.

As I recall, your floors came from Charlie. Looked on ZF's site to compare 240 and 280 pans. A lot of difference. I've only dealt with ZF 240 pans. Mine needed a lot of massaging on the tunnel side. The outboard side is vertical and welds to the rockers. They were too wide too. (better than too narrow) I fit mine from the inside. Seat mounts were out. I measured from the outboard side of the floor to the bottom of the inboard radius about every two inches. Drew a corresponding line on the new floor to match the orig bottom of the radius. Bending them to fit was a PITA. I bent them cold. If I EVER do it again I'll heat them with a flame. Pulled the overlaps together with sheet metal screws and started cutting both pieces at once. Got a good amount of it cut in place, some places had to be cut separately. That said 240 pans don't have the holes near the sides. To get the floors oriented in the proper location, I think you'll have to massage both sides.

One popular upgrade for the 240Z seems to be swapping out the lame Original Heater blower motor to the one coming from some 80ies or 90ies Honda. Unfortunately all the manuals i found for this swap mentioned a different Honda model as source for the Blower motor so i was confused. They all looked the same in the pictures and some guys on Ebay even sell the Blower swap for around 90$ + shipping. I thought that's too expensive and did some research and figured out the one blower everyone is using is the TYC Genera Model 700077 which is an aftermarket replacement for the aforementioned old honda motors. Funnly this blower is sold for only 23 Bucks so i went the direct route and ordered it This is the old Nihon Radiator / Hitachi Blower: And here we have the new one. Brand new and factory fresh As you can see the shape is slightly different (left new, right old), but it wil fit perfectly. I compared with the drawing on the TYC website and many people in the internet told this is a 1:1 swap except for the rubber gromments which need to be changed due to different mounting hole diameters (other people probably will enlarge the holes). Also i recommand to paint the now Silver motor cover black as this is installed right in the foot compartment of the passenger and will stick to the passengers eye According to the poeple in various forums the advantage of the new Blower is: Much more powerful, much more silent, lighter (Due to the plastic squirre-cage compared to the metal one in the old design) and draws less current. Overall it's much more effective. can't wait to install it. Of course i will write about it once i get to that point

Can't believe I missed this thread till now! Epic. Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....