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Buddy, this forum is serving you up a delicious dinner at no cost and you want your steak cut up and forked into your mouth as well. Some effort is required on your part.

I shortened your story to the most basic stuff. You never said if it ran well before it was stored or even if it was you that stored it. It sat for at least a year, did you drain the fuel or add new fuel? Could be just bad gas. You haven't mentioned the most basic thing, checking for spark at a plug wire. But you did say that it tried to start with fluid, which is a sign that there is spark. But you're not using the starter fluid correctly, it needs to be sprayed in to the manifold, either right before or during cranking. You also haven't confirmed that the firing order is correct. Rough running after working on the plugs and wires is often caused by installing the wires incorrectly. I don't want to short-circuit (pun) everyone's suggestions but it seems to me that confirming firing order, and using the starting fluid correctly while cranking the engine would tell you quite a bit. And/or checking for spark at a plug wire. You're about to dig deep in to an engine that, apparently, was running okay recently. Might be getting ahead of yourself.

Let's be clear.... anything can be repaired.... But at what cost/time/materials? Your car has serious rust throughout the midsection, literally from dogleg across to dogleg. I have never seen one that bad personally. I have a friend nearby here in Canada who just disposed of a 240 with less than half of the damage yours is showing. Don't panic, he has two others to restore. The point being that IF you have deep pockets to replace the doglegs, surrounding sheet metal, door sills, rocker panels, floor pans, frame rails, seat anchors, and probably numerous other areas of the unibody you MAY be able to restore the car. The biggest issue I see is that you have very little SOLID metal to weld onto! You literally will need to start welding metal from the roof down in order to have good steel to add the panels to! Reread the comments, look at the car objectively, look at the other restoration threads and see what people are starting from in comparison.... THEN decide where you want to go. I believe your best option has already been suggested in parting this car out and saving the best pieces for a restoration of a better frame. Best of luck!!

Here's a great video put on buy our friends over at Hagerty.

According to the director in a message to the after show "Talking Dead" he said Glen, or "parts" of Glen, in would be seen in later episodes to continue/complete the story line. He did not confirm alive or dead. Hmmmmmmm I don't know if he is alive or not, but somebody's entrails got stretched out in the last episode. I'm hooked again.

R200 in with new bushings, new MSA spindle pins, bearings, etc. Glad the floors are in good shape.

Looking at what you describe and then referring to page ET-10 of the factory manual P/N 99999-20015 (undated) for the L24 Series engine Allow me to quote word for word what the factory has to say on the topic (Some earlier posts have mentioned some of the same points). Troubles ABNORMAL COMBUSTION (backfire, after fire, run-on, etc.) Possible Causes Improper ignition timing Improper heat range of spark plugs Damaged carburetor or manifold gasket (back fire or after fire) Defective carburetor jet Improper function of the float Uneven idling Corrective Action Adjust the ignition timing. Use specified spark plugs. Replace damaged carb or manifold gasket. Dismantle the carburetor and check it. Adjust the float level and check the needle valve. Adjust idle. I've owned and used this factory manual since 1971 and it has always served the purpose. If you haven't downloaded a copy of the factory manuals, do so. If you can't find the factory recommended carb adjustment procedures, let me know and I can walk you through the process. Perhaps, more importantly, find a mechanic familiar with SU carbs who can make the adjustments and has a flow meter and other diagnostic tools. Did the car ever run right after you had the carbs rebuilt and installed? Dennis

Sometimes we do not want to hear what we already know. But the fact that you do not want to hear it, does not make it any less true. Let me paint another picture for you. One less depressing. The engine and steering wheel and carbs are worth more than what you paid. You have well over 500 bucks of parts in that car alone. So chin up! You made a good purchase! I just paid 50 bucks for a spare 240Z gas pedal for an upcoming project. You have many many good parts on your hands that other 240Z owners will in fact need. So take a deep breath. This is my advice. I echo what others who are wiser than I am have said before. Start parting out the car. You will be shocked at what you find. You will also learn how to disassemble the car and learn how it goes together. This car will provide you with two of the MOST valuable things you could ever have. Parts and Experience. You ever wonder how all of us know a flat lined patient when we see it. It is because we have worked on cars our whole life. You want a better 240Z. Work hard at what you do. Be it your job or your schooling. Save some money and be a hawk about sticking to a budget. Then buy the best Z you can afford. Start seriously looking around 2500 bucks. You can save that. Restoring a car is not cheap. But it is doable. You have the perfect car to practice patch panels with. Practice welding. Practice wiring. Practice removing parts and learning how a Z is put together. Do not get down. Use what you have and fuel your dream.

(sorry couldn't resist)

The delivery guy showed up again. Got a real large box from MSA, have to wait for the Tax receipt, but yeah, here you go. Ordered lots of rubbers, bushings, ... But most important, some parts to refresh the interior: Shortly after this delivery I got another box, from JAPAN. Freakin new driver side doorpanel. YEAH! Bought this on yahoo auctions for "only" 27000Yen or 225US$ As winter is approaching here in Europe, I decided to do a last ride for 2015 and started working:

Opps I should clarify in post #4 that I meant "idle enrichment screw" in place of "idle jet" Gee I wish the 1hr edit limit could be extended to 24hr or indefinitely.